KC Daylighters on the front of a 2001?

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Hey guys, I'm hoping someone has already figured this one out.

I just ordered a pair of the 6" 385,000 candlepower KC Daylighters to replace the PIAA 1100s I had previously installed. The PIAAs helped, but I need more light for my trips to Baja with the Ram. I'm leaving Dec 23rd #ad


The KCs are too big to be able to drill a hole and mount them on top of the front bumper as the hole would have to be to far forward on the bumper to work.

I don't want to put them upside down under the bumper for ground clearance reasons.

I don't want to mount them on top of the cab for clearance reasons. My 4x4 Ram barely clears some of the garage openings as it is.

I don't want to add any weight up front with a brush guard or bull bars.

I was thinking of fabricating a bracket to mount them to that would mount on top of the front bumper.

Where/how have you mounted your large off road lighting?

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

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Doh! posted on the wrong forum #ad
sorry guys...

 

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Dane, you have some great lights. I have the same ones. I used some scrap 1/8" steel and cut it into rectangles. They are about 2" wide and 5" long. I drilled holes in the bumper just on the inside of there the bumper makes a funny bend for the bumper bracket. I used 3/4 inch carrage bolts to hold it down. I painted my new brackets black to match the bumper plastic. They are plenyt strongenough for the lights. I am still using the same brackets after my little body damage. I might go out and measure their exact location. If you have any questions, email. The only thing I've broke the bulb on is a LaSaber. I've hit a bird with no damage. Also, unless it is required by local laws, dont use the covers. I've lost a pair or two due to %&^$^%# theifs #ad
. Also dont use them on the road, you might become very popular by the local fuzz.

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1996 2500, 4x4, 5 speed
-- email address removed -- Great Lakes TDR
PURDUE STUDENT 
GO BOILERS

 

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Cool, thanks for the info. I was looking the truck at lunch before reading your reply and had pretty much settled on the same idea. Great to know it works #ad
Question - How did you square off the holes in the bumper for the carrage bolts? My only other thought was to bolt a plate from the bottom frame rails from under the bumper using steel plate, but I think that those lights are so bright I'd be blinded from reflections off the road with them that low, especially in the rain.

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

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Well, I got the carrage bolts to fit by a combination of a dremil to the plate, and grinding on the bolt. I got it to where it wont spin, but was easier than a square hole. I think it looks better the way I did it. It would also be low enough you might hit them, and they would be less protected by the bumper. That is the most common spot to mount lights for a reason. Also, there is a small amount of work, and parts to use. The only thing, is that they get in the way a little when working on the engine, But not too much. I am happy with my lights, I just dont get to use them as often as I like.

 

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I just ordered mine today along with their 5x7 clear fog lamps. I going to mount them on a Smittybilt Outland bumper guard.

I figure with 385,000 candlepower #ad
out of the KC Daylighters, I ought to be able to see where I'm going! #ad


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[This message has been edited by BIG BOB (edited 12-08-2000). ]

 

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Bob, With 385,000 candle power EACH I'm a little afraid of walking in front of them too close #ad
Might vaporize something #ad
I sure love this forum for good advice. I would have never found out about the KCs being much brighter and much cheaper than the euro brands. Plus I got 33% off thanks to another member. Gotta love it #ad


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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

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Dane,

I got the 33% off also, that's why I bought the lights! Couldn't hardly pass them up. Saved $100. 00.

For those that don't know check out this thread;
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum17/HTML/001066.html

 

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Dane,
I'll take care of putting this in the 2nd generation no engine and drive train forum for you.

Great post and when you get them on pictures would be real nice #ad

Have a great trip to Baja!
Mike

 

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I found a bar thru the now defunked Dick Cepec people. It was manufactured by... uh... gotta look thru my paperwork when I get home.
Anyway, it's kinda like the Smittybuilt pre runner light bar. Mounts on top and front of fender. It held my KC HID's well, looked great (better than the cheapy Smittybuilt) and kept the lights protected somewhat while brush busting.
By the way... it places the lights in just the right spot for people who feel they need to run in the #1 lane at 55mph. What a sight to see when you do a courtesy high beam flash, they tap the brake, and then turn on the HID's. People are normally so shocked at the 'arc welder' lights in their rearview, they concede the #1 lane fairly quickly.
I'll post again when I find the paperwork of the shop. I think it was ORI (Off Road Innovations) but I'll check that. Any questions don't hesitate to e-mail.

 

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Here is a pic of my light mount close up, and a ways away #ad

#ad


[This message has been edited by Jff24Gordn (edited 12-10-2000). ]

 

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Thanks Wayne, a picture IS worth a thousand words in this case...

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

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Wayne, two questions please:

1. how do you have all this candlepower wired for power ?

and

2. why did you not mount the lamps father out from the center of the truck?

 

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You are welcome Dane.

Lizzyhermit:
I have a constant hot wire going to the cab for cb, and othr things, I tapped it to run a cheep lighted toggle switch and a 30A relay. The 30A relay is needed, I think It should have more due to it pulling 29 or so amps. I have a 12g wire off the battery to the relay, to the lights. It has a inline fuse at the very start. It is very easy to wire. I have the switch in a piece of alumnum sheetmetal to cover the cubby hole for od and fog lights (dont have either) and painted it black. I ran the wires in the edge of he big grommet for the wiring harness.

The lights are mounted where they are because the bumper dipps down for the bumper bracket. The plastic bumper top hides it. If I had mounted them outside of the dip, they would have been in the way of the head lights. I dont know if the newer ones also do this.

 

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I've wired mine so they come on with the high beams. I live in the woods and drive a back road getting home from work every night. The Dodge lighting is different than other brands because the headlights are always connected to +12V and the headlight switch is what supplys the ground. If you want to switch them on with the highbeams use a relay (I used a 40 amp) that has one side of the sense circuit wired to +12V The other side of the sense goes to the high beam headlight wire that grounds when you switch to highbeams. The contactor side of the relay can then be wired any way you like to power the photon torpedos... er, I mean KC Daylighters. If the relay has a common ground between the sense and contactor side like the PIAA relays you can't ues it or you'll test your fuse as soon as you switch to highbeams #ad


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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

[This message has been edited by Dane (edited 12-12-2000). ]

 

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I fanally got my lights installed on my new truck. They are 250w airplane landing lights. I've also got them wired through a 30 amp relay and have them controlled with the high beam switch. I don't run the lights when anyone is coming the other direction because they would get blinded for life. It's also nicer than drilling holes in the dash for the toggle switch. I also used 12ga wire fom the battery to the relay and to the lights. My advantage is the steel bruch guard on the front of the truck that make the perfect mounting location.

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Curtis Harris

"JAWS"(The Great White)
Updated 11/19/00
1997 Club Cab Dualie
correctly valved 5 speed. White, Brown Manf. brushguard and rear bumper,Sprayed in liner, Stock plate and AFC properly adjusted. Straight pipe. That's all for now. More to come.