Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP and front gear case project

[TLadd]

I'm planning to do fix the KDP, seal the front gear case, and replace my harmonic balancer. So far for parts, I've got the front timing cover seal, and timing cover gasket, and a new harmonic balancer. Should I use the front gear case gasket or should I use black rtv silicone? Do I use a regular harmonic balancer puller? I didn't buy a KDP kit, but I should be able to get a machine shop to make one for me. My original harmonic balancer started to break apart, so I'd better replace it now. While I'm into it, what else should I do? And do you have any tips or suggestions? TIA

 

[BAnsley]

No puller needed to get balancer off just 4 bolts,on the the tab i used a #40 chain link repair end and redrilled the one end to the same size as the bolt. And for the gasket just get a new one, To much of a pain to do it over plus it has a new crank seal. good luck

 

[Missouri Mule]

I used silicone and it worked good no leaks so far (Dodge was out of gaskets).

Since you have the gasket you mite as well use it.

 

[MFalkinham]

I prefer the gasket to RTV. As for the tab, it's very easy to make one yourself out of a small piece of spring steel. A machine shop will probably charge a forture for such a small job.

I felt the barring tool was money well spent at $40 since I was working alone. I also recommend pulling the radiator for easier access and to prevent damaging it while pulling the fan (and it gives you a chance to flush it out with a hose).

 

[Eric_B]

Don't forget to check all of those other gear case bolts while you are in there.

Especially the ones behind the cam gear. Clean the bolt holes real good with brake clean ,Qtips and compressed air and Loctite them in at 18 ft. lb. if I recall correctly.

 

[PToombs]

Don't forget to check all of those other gear case bolts while you are in there.

Especially the ones behind the cam gear. Clean the bolt holes real good with brake clean ,Qtips and compressed air and Loctite them in at 18 ft. lb. if I recall correctly.

One of these won't come out all the way, do the best you can.

You are going to have to bend a 10mm wrench to get to some of these bolts.

Good luck!

 

[CumminsPower98]

Been there done that. There are 3 bolts behind the cam gear on the right side when looking at the engine from the front. Two of them can be pulled out and done right. The bottom one you must bend a 10mm wrench as mentioned above. My case was leaking quite a bit back there after putting a few hundred thousand miles on it. I had done my KDP years ago but didn't know about those hiding bolts at the time so more recently I pulled the cover again and got them taken care of and no more leak. I now do this on all KDP fixes I do. I always use the gasket with a thin layer of black RTV on both sides when using a new one. The gasket on my truck has stayed stuck good to the cover so it has never been changed and I have no leaks.



The crank seal is to be installed dry, as in brake clean the crank nose. Some people don't know this so just making sure you know before you oil it up.

 

[TLadd]

This project has turned out to be more than I bargained for, in that the whole gear case has to be replaced because somebody was into it before I was and they patched the case where it had a broken out chunk. What do I have to do to change out the gear case?

 

[CumminsPower98]

Here you go: CumminsDatabase.com :: 12V Dowel Pin Repair

 

[hbowers]

I've been there and done that. more than once. you'll have to pull the camshaft. to do that take off the rocker arms,all the push rods, and get some 1/2 inch wooden dowel rods from your local hardware;cut them about 12 inches long (the ones for cyl 5 and 6 will need to be shorter) 12 total.

chamfer the ends and hacksaw the ends about one inch down. tap these rods

into the valve lifters,pull them up and tie them off with rubber bands so they

can't getaway when you pull the camshaft. have fun