Finally went in after mine at My Mechanics shop (works on lite to heavy duty equipment).
We did the tab fix. My dowel pin was out about 1/8" to 1/4"(forgot to take a picture).
We took out radiator, fan shroud with over-flow bottle attached and washer bottle unattached and of course everything else in the way of timing cover.
Battery connection cable can be placed on top or valve cover with out taking off cables to either battery.
Mechanic made a tab out of scrap metal. Did take photo of tab fix.
My Mechanic put seal in cover while it was off.
Did not want to go in front side so we flipped the cover over (we put the metal depth quide tool in the front side) use a large impact socket/hammer to tap seal in.
The socket needs to fit the seal's back inside diameter of metal lip ( I think we used the old seal to help start it but used socket/hammer the most).
Flipped back over checked to see if it was cock eyed (it was a little) tapped the depth quide tool with hammer( that made it even up) put the plastic seal spreader in(seal spreader comes out as you put cover on).
Silconed the cover and put it on. Put all the bolts in then hand tighten them and then torqued them.
The rest was a breeze. Well except it took a lot of elbow grease to torque the damper bolts to 92 lbs.
The job wasn't that hard but time consuming but I know it would go quicker the second time.
Oh yeah truck has 130,000, engine is at STOCK HORSE POWER.
But the main thing is the KDP =dp and won't give me any troubles !!!
Oo.
Freightliner is next in line!
We did the tab fix. My dowel pin was out about 1/8" to 1/4"(forgot to take a picture).
We took out radiator, fan shroud with over-flow bottle attached and washer bottle unattached and of course everything else in the way of timing cover.
Battery connection cable can be placed on top or valve cover with out taking off cables to either battery.
Mechanic made a tab out of scrap metal. Did take photo of tab fix.
My Mechanic put seal in cover while it was off.
Did not want to go in front side so we flipped the cover over (we put the metal depth quide tool in the front side) use a large impact socket/hammer to tap seal in.
The socket needs to fit the seal's back inside diameter of metal lip ( I think we used the old seal to help start it but used socket/hammer the most).
Flipped back over checked to see if it was cock eyed (it was a little) tapped the depth quide tool with hammer( that made it even up) put the plastic seal spreader in(seal spreader comes out as you put cover on).
Silconed the cover and put it on. Put all the bolts in then hand tighten them and then torqued them.
The rest was a breeze. Well except it took a lot of elbow grease to torque the damper bolts to 92 lbs.
The job wasn't that hard but time consuming but I know it would go quicker the second time.
Oh yeah truck has 130,000, engine is at STOCK HORSE POWER.
But the main thing is the KDP =dp and won't give me any troubles !!!


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