Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Matt42
TDR MEMBER
I dealt with the potential KDP problem today. I did it by removing the gear case cover plate and blocking it off with a shop-made "washer. " Many thanks to Joe George for his instructions.
The good news is that the KDP was stuck exactly where it belongs, and I didn't need to repair it.
The bad news is that the KDP was stuck exactly where it belongs,and I didn't need to repair it.
On the other hand, I got a great tour of my Cummins' gearcase. I also discovered that the parts people at Cummins Southwest in Phoenix are excellent. Even though they weren't officially open this warm Saturday morning, their 24 hour road service people let me in the front door and got me the parts that I needed. (Don't ask why I had to do that on a Saturday... )
If you go about blocking your KDP by the open method like I did, rather than the arthroscopic method with the jig, I have a few suggestions that might make your experience easier. I won't repeat the whole process, because Joe's instructions cover it all very well. All are appropriate to my 1996 with air conditioning. YMMV!
1. Buy a tube of the Cummins brand "silver three-bond RTV" sealer for the cover gasket. It is very good stuff, and duplicates what was used at the factory. It costs more than bubble-pack sealer, but I think it's worth it. Ask for Cummins Part No. 3823494, called "goo" by the counter man. Great name. You'll need it for the cover gasket, Cummins part number 3918673.
2. I *strongly urge* you to buy an extra crank seal. It is a very tight installation, and it is very easy to ruin the seal unless everything goes just right. It's Cummins Part No. 3804899.
3. Before you remove the fan clutch, it helps to remove the oil filler tube. Loosen the clamp neck bolt (8 mm wrench) and remove the clamp to block bolt (16 mm wrench). Unscrew the vertical plastic oil tube. Then turn the elbow at the gearcase cover anti-clockwise to remove it. Both will be stuck, and will require some persuasion.
4. I used a 1 1/2 inch open end wrench that I had ground thin, to remove the fan clutch nut. I used a six inch C clamp to secure the hub to break it loose, using the old belt as a cushion. Remember it's a left hand thread. You could also fabricate a holding jig that bolts into the hub. Install a new belt. You've come this far, and your old belt is, well, old.
5. If you are also using the Dodge TSM, the 1996 version tells you not to remove the fan hub pulley because it is under "spring tension. " The TSM is wrong. Mine wasn't under spring tension. Removing the hub and the arm that fastens it to the engine block makes the job not just easier, but possible.
6. The vibration damper comes off with a 15 mm wrench. It's very easy if you have a 5 speed; just leave it in gear. I dunno what to suggest if you have an automagic transmission. Keep the vibration damper bolts handy. They are truss head bolts, and I found them essential to install the crankshaft seal into the gearcase cover.
7. Once you have done the KDP block-off, clean the mating surfaces of the gearcase cover and the gearcase with denatured alcohol or a similar non-hydrocarbon substance. Do the same with the crankshaft end, because the seal is a dry seal. Fit the goo-covered gasket to the cover, and reinstall it lightly the gearcase. Install all the bolts hand-tight. Using the steel aligning tool that comes with the crank seal, align the gearcase cover to the crankshaft end and tighten all the bolts to 18 foot pounds.
8. Using the plastic sleeve that comes with the seal, start the crank seal onto the crank end. You can pull out the plastic seal now, which is what I did.
9. I was completely unable to get the seal sarted by tapping it in with a hammer, so I tried this method out of desperation, and it worked very nicely: Hand screw three of the four vibration damper truss-head bolts into the end of the crank. Place the bearing installation tool over the truss-head bolts, flange side facing the radiator. Screw in the fourth bolt, and align the installation tool so that the narrow end is concentric with the steel part of the seal. Lightly screw in all the bolts, then crank each of them down a little at a time so as to set the seal into the bore of the gearcase cover. Once the bolts have gone in as far as they can, use a hammer to seat the seal the rest of the way, by lightly whacking the installation tool. You will know when the seal is seated when the installation tool flange sits on the top of the gearcase bore.
10. Then put everything back together using Joe's instructions. You can also use the method of "installation is the reverse of removal. "
I hope this saves somebody some time and growling. Matt
The good news is that the KDP was stuck exactly where it belongs, and I didn't need to repair it.
The bad news is that the KDP was stuck exactly where it belongs,and I didn't need to repair it.
On the other hand, I got a great tour of my Cummins' gearcase. I also discovered that the parts people at Cummins Southwest in Phoenix are excellent. Even though they weren't officially open this warm Saturday morning, their 24 hour road service people let me in the front door and got me the parts that I needed. (Don't ask why I had to do that on a Saturday... )
If you go about blocking your KDP by the open method like I did, rather than the arthroscopic method with the jig, I have a few suggestions that might make your experience easier. I won't repeat the whole process, because Joe's instructions cover it all very well. All are appropriate to my 1996 with air conditioning. YMMV!
1. Buy a tube of the Cummins brand "silver three-bond RTV" sealer for the cover gasket. It is very good stuff, and duplicates what was used at the factory. It costs more than bubble-pack sealer, but I think it's worth it. Ask for Cummins Part No. 3823494, called "goo" by the counter man. Great name. You'll need it for the cover gasket, Cummins part number 3918673.
2. I *strongly urge* you to buy an extra crank seal. It is a very tight installation, and it is very easy to ruin the seal unless everything goes just right. It's Cummins Part No. 3804899.
3. Before you remove the fan clutch, it helps to remove the oil filler tube. Loosen the clamp neck bolt (8 mm wrench) and remove the clamp to block bolt (16 mm wrench). Unscrew the vertical plastic oil tube. Then turn the elbow at the gearcase cover anti-clockwise to remove it. Both will be stuck, and will require some persuasion.
4. I used a 1 1/2 inch open end wrench that I had ground thin, to remove the fan clutch nut. I used a six inch C clamp to secure the hub to break it loose, using the old belt as a cushion. Remember it's a left hand thread. You could also fabricate a holding jig that bolts into the hub. Install a new belt. You've come this far, and your old belt is, well, old.
5. If you are also using the Dodge TSM, the 1996 version tells you not to remove the fan hub pulley because it is under "spring tension. " The TSM is wrong. Mine wasn't under spring tension. Removing the hub and the arm that fastens it to the engine block makes the job not just easier, but possible.
6. The vibration damper comes off with a 15 mm wrench. It's very easy if you have a 5 speed; just leave it in gear. I dunno what to suggest if you have an automagic transmission. Keep the vibration damper bolts handy. They are truss head bolts, and I found them essential to install the crankshaft seal into the gearcase cover.
7. Once you have done the KDP block-off, clean the mating surfaces of the gearcase cover and the gearcase with denatured alcohol or a similar non-hydrocarbon substance. Do the same with the crankshaft end, because the seal is a dry seal. Fit the goo-covered gasket to the cover, and reinstall it lightly the gearcase. Install all the bolts hand-tight. Using the steel aligning tool that comes with the crank seal, align the gearcase cover to the crankshaft end and tighten all the bolts to 18 foot pounds.
8. Using the plastic sleeve that comes with the seal, start the crank seal onto the crank end. You can pull out the plastic seal now, which is what I did.
9. I was completely unable to get the seal sarted by tapping it in with a hammer, so I tried this method out of desperation, and it worked very nicely: Hand screw three of the four vibration damper truss-head bolts into the end of the crank. Place the bearing installation tool over the truss-head bolts, flange side facing the radiator. Screw in the fourth bolt, and align the installation tool so that the narrow end is concentric with the steel part of the seal. Lightly screw in all the bolts, then crank each of them down a little at a time so as to set the seal into the bore of the gearcase cover. Once the bolts have gone in as far as they can, use a hammer to seat the seal the rest of the way, by lightly whacking the installation tool. You will know when the seal is seated when the installation tool flange sits on the top of the gearcase bore.
10. Then put everything back together using Joe's instructions. You can also use the method of "installation is the reverse of removal. "
I hope this saves somebody some time and growling. Matt
