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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP Jig caution

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Disable wastegate

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(I'm making a couple edits here after Woodenhead reminded me of a few things. Thanks Mike - it's been so long since I actually had the jig in my posession that I forgot some details)



A heads up for those who have recently or will soon be doing the KDP jig work on their trucks...



One of our members who just used the Northeast Jig found that the kit included only 3/4" long screws with the kit, and not the required 1" long screws. I'm not sure at what point the 1" screws were used up, but some may have mistakenly used the 3/4" screws, making the repair useless.



For all those using the jigs out there, please make sure you use the correct tapered-head 1/4" x 20 x 1" long screws. If you have already used the wrong screws, you should probably replace them as soon as possible.



The 3/4" screws are provide in case the 1" screws will not thread in all the way (indicating that the dowel pin may already be part way out). The 3/4" screws will at least plug the hole until the time becomes available to disassemble the cover to push the pin back in.



Some don't understand that the screw installed with this repair is supposed to extend PAST the dowel pin to prevent it from coming out. Some thought it worked as a set screw to hold the pin. If the screw is too short it will do nothing to keep the pin in.



Sincerely,



Blake

NE Jigkeeper
 
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You probably already know this but... .



I think the 3/4" screws are to use if the pin has come out and you can't get a 1" screw in.



I'm pretty sure the jig I used in WA had some 3/4" and 1"screws but the directions said to use the 1" and if they wouldn't go in (hitting the pin) use the 3/4" to plug the hole until you could pull the cover to tab it.



The directions were pretty clear with the one I got but there was some extra tips I found here and put in with the jig.



My $0. 02

Mike
 
The NW jig has had a few short screws with it for three years, wrapped in orange tape, to plug the leak if the pin is encountered while drilling. As far as I know no one has used them, most folks are concerned enough if the pin is that far out that they won't drive their truck until the pin is pounded back in.
 
A 3/4" screw will go to the center of the KDP and being only . 040" away from a fully seated pin, there should not be any way the pin could get by it. A 1"long screw goes a little past the pin.



CPFF
 
Ok... thanks. So there should be no worry for someone who used the 3/4" screw instead of the 1"?



Thanks for clearing this up as I was worried because I know some used the wrong screws.



Thanks,



Blake
 
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