Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP project underway

[TWafer]

I am finally doing my KDP this weekend Oo. . (Monday is my day off so refer to it and Sunday afternoon as my weekend ) I just went out tonight and tore it down and got the cover off and tomorrow Ill finish it. The KDP looks to be out about an 1/8” to maybe 3/16 of an inch. I want to check all the bolts in there too as has been recommended. Can anyone tell me for sure how many are in there so I don’t miss any?

Thanks

Tim

 

[MLee]

There is "5" that hold the case in place. One is under the cam gear, you need to have a wrench that can be bent to get under/through the gear, cause the bolt is in a odd spot and can not be removed. The torque is only 18 ft lbs, for all bolts, this is not very much, Do a search, there has been a lot said about it. There is a couple more in there also. Are you using the same bolt to hold the Tab? It is recommended to use a longer one, and locktite it.

Marv.

 

[DBogo]

so you torque the one that is holding the tab to 18 ftlbs too

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

They are high grade bolts and I use a bit more than 18. You can r&r 4 holding the case, tighten the 5th, and check the 2 on the camshaft retainer and 4 on the oil pump.

 

[TWafer]

Got em!

Got them all then! Thanks guys! That 5th one under the camshaft gear took a while to find. I got it mostly back together. Just came in to check the picture of how the belt goes on. I forgot to pick up a new one of those. I can do it later though. I want to check the pump timing too but didn’t have all the necessary tools yet.

I’m waiting for my gauges to arrive. Supposed to be here tomorrow. I already received the BHAF, #10 plate and 3000GSK. Just want to get the gauges installed before I install them to have a benchmark to compare to.

Tim

 

[LarryWard]

Did my KDP fix via cover removal two weeks ago. I am curious about those internal case bolts. As I remember there were 4 plus one in the gear spoke opening. It happened to be in the exact open spot to access that bolt. Were there others I overlooked as described on camshaft retainer and oil pump that were under the removed cover or in some other location??



At 215K the pin was out 1/4" andsome bolts were not very snug. Finally figured out the clear plastic sleeve enables easy and damge control for the new crank seal as you put cover back. Also felt the two temporary bolt hole studs simplified aligning and sliding it on with seal in cover and as mentioned the stepped clear plastic sleeve that came with my new seal. I do not remember anyone referring to that sleeve before so I looked at and after couple attempts to get cover on without it I finally figured it out. Some postings related tearing or ruining seal on install and that created serious caution for me. I am actually proud of my 72 year old brain.



Scarred up fan pulley with chain wrench attempting to loosen big fan nut wrong direction. It loosens clockwise as you face truck. Cleaned up pulley edges with v-file. Discovered the belt tensioner idler bearing sounds very dry so expect I need to replace it.

 

[TWafer]

Bolt count

Larry

If I recall correctly now, (after all it’s been 3 days :-laf ) there are 5 bolts that hold the gear case on. Three of which are accessed through the holes in the camshaft gear (you have to rotate the engine to see them all. ) and all have 10mm hex heads. One of those three is not removable but can be tightened or backed off a bit and somewhat cleaned and loctited and then retightened. You would have to bend a 10mm wrench to access it. Fortunately I had one in my drawer already bent from some long ago project.

There are also 6 other bolts with 13mm hex heads in there as well. Four of those are for the oil pump and are easily visible (with a mirror). The other 2 are again accessed through the holes in the camshaft gear.

All in all there are 11 bolts in the gear case that you may want to check. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Hope this helps!

Tim

 

[surfbeetle]

Did mine last weekend, pin was 1/8 inch out. With a little patience, all 5 gear casing bolts are removable. We had taken out the radiator so we had more room to work and it was an excuse to change radiator hoses that were 10 years old and had 137,000 miles on them. Anyway, the bolt under the gear was the hardest, we broke it loose with a wrench, used large enough fuel line over the end to spin it out and then a magnet to ensure it didn't drop. I used the TST kit. Also put in a #5 plate in the pump, What a difference! It's like a different truck!

 

[TWafer]

With a little patience, all 5 gear casing bolts are removable. Anyway, the bolt under the gear was the hardest, we broke it loose with a wrench, used large enough fuel line over the end to spin it out and then a magnet to ensure it didn't drop.

:--) surfbeetle

Curious how you could possibly remove that 5th bolt under the cam gear without removing the gear? I backed it out until the head was butted up tight to the gear. That was only maybe 2 or 3 threads, so not even half way out of the hole. No possibility of slipping anything over the head since it’s completely under the gear no matter where you turn the gear. There are 4 other bolts that are removable through the holes. 2 for the case (10mm) and 2 for the camshaft retainer (13mm). Was your somehow different than mine or what am I missing?

Tim

 

[surfbeetle]

Tim,

According to the Directions from TST, there were two bolts under the cam gear, the one next to the dowel pin, one to the lower left of the cam gear by the small gear and then the two that are outside of the gear case area on the lower corners. What year is your truck? Mine's a California 175hp motor, the truck was built in March of 1995. It is definitely possible that there are differences in the engines. My father has been a Heavy Duty Diesel Mechanic for the better part of 30 years, so I had him help me. He was able to remove both bolts under the cam gear. It was a pain in the ***** to get them out, we had to rotate the engine to get the holes in the gear to line up enough to get the bolts out. If I remember correctly, the wrench size was the same for all of them, but off hand, I don't remember what the exact size was. We had removed all of them and then cleaned out the holes, put red loc tite back on them and re-inserted. They were all loose. I am just happy that at 137000 miles I caught it before it failed. If you have the TST kit, they provide support for it, maybe they can shed some insight. Good luck!

 

[BigPapa]

I've got a question, probably one of the stupid kind, but here goes anyway.



Why can't we simply remove the dowel pin? It's there to line up the cover, right? And if the cover's already on, what is the necessity of the pin being there?



Like I said, just a question.



Thanks,

Scott

 

[Dave M]

I've got a question, probably one of the stupid kind, but here goes anyway.



Why can't we simply remove the dowel pin? It's there to line up the cover, right? And if the cover's already on, what is the necessity of the pin being there?

Like I said, just a question.

Thanks,

Scott

Someone else should chime in here but, from posts I've read some feel that the pin should stay in :-{} . Apparently it helps provide support for the case and takes strain off the case bolts. More knowledeable members will hopefully correct me if I'm wrong or provide more info . Thats what I remember... but I could be having a senile moment or brain fart :-laf .



Dave

 

[BigPapa]

I've also heard of people pulling the cover to tab their pin and it had already come out and was in the bottom, having caused no damage. If they had continued to run in this condition, would it have caused a failure?



Just wondering,

Scott

 

[TWafer]

I looked all over for a good illustration showing the location of all 11 bolts I found but couldn’t find any one picture that shows them all. The below illustration shows the 5 that are under the camshaft gear which are the most difficult ones to find.

3 of them (10mm) hold the gear case and 2 (13mm) hold the camshaft thrust plate. The one that is most difficult is a gear case bolt (10mm) to the right of the camshaft and just far enough out from center to be really hard to see through the holes in the camshaft and as far as I could tell impossible to remove with the gear in place.

The other two gear case bolts (10mm) are the one next to the KDP and one to the lower left of the cam gear as previously mentioned.

The other 4 (13mm) are for the oil pump. You can see the top 2 in the below illustration (just above the words “camshaft bushing”) and there are 2 more just like it at the bottom of the oil pump which would be just under those words.

Maybe someone can come up with a better illustration.

Tim

 

[surfbeetle]

I've also heard of people pulling the cover to tab their pin and it had already come out and was in the bottom, having caused no damage. If they had continued to run in this condition, would it have caused a failure?



Just wondering,

Scott

The problem with that is you don't know the condition of the pin until you get it all apart. Mine was still in place but had moved out, but I had no idea until I had the cover off. Would a failure be caused by being in the bottom? If it were down in the oil pan, probably not, but what if it gets clogs the oil pickup?

 

[BigPapa]

The point of my post is why can't we just remove the pin instead of tabbing it? Dave posted that he read that the pin provided support to keep the front case from shifting. I was trying to point out that there have been some people who have removed the cover to do the tab and found that their pin had already fallen out and caused no damage. Have their front cases slipped? I doubt it. So back to the original question, why not just remove the dowel pin instead of tabbing it?



Scott

 

[Joe G.]

I don't think I would want to rely on faith that the gear case didn't slip a little. The heavy injector pump is hanging on it.

 

[BigPapa]

JoeG,



Your the man that ought to know! Is this dowel pin the only one on the front case?



Thanks,

Scott

 

[Joe G.]

There are two dowel pins. One of them is in a blind hole so it's no threat. The KDP is in a bored through hole and can vibrate out. The new gear case used starting in '99 has a step in the hole to keep the KDP in place.

 

[surfbeetle]

My sister has a late 98, possibly a 99 model, ( I am not sure). Does anyone know what engine number started having the step in the hole to keep dowel pin in place?