KDP questions

[MMiller]

Ok I did some searching and got a few questions answered, but I have some more. Yes I have two CTD and have not done either KDP yet. Also my brother's 94 and dad's 95 should probably have it done too. So hear are my questions.



Is a KPD Jig something that holds the pin from the outside, not needing cover removal? What usually comes with a KPD jig kit?



I want to pull the cover and do all the bolts. What parts will I need? Front cover gasket, main seal, locktight, anything else? Will I need a "Jig Kit" if I am removing the cover and staking, and tabing the KDP?



I gather I need a big wrench for the fan, no biggie I have wrenchs up to 2".



Do I have to remove the radiator to do the repair? The 93 does not need new hoses, or coolant for that matter. Is there enough room to do it with rad in chassis?



Sorry for beating a dead horse, but I figure I better get some dowel pins killed around here. Just want some more info. Thanks for the help guys.



Michael

 

[poor]

No the jig is what is used to set up to drill and tap the cover from the outside!The allen head bolt screws in and retains the KDP! No need to remove the cover-but then you still have the chance of the other bolts being loose and going into the gears. From the seller of the kit-Harold Bowers-email -- email address removed -- The deluxe kit comes with 6 allen screws,1 5/16 drill bit with guide, 1 drill jig, 1 3/8 standard

tap, 1 pin punch, 1 allen wrench,1 air pressure regulator, instructions etc. for $99. 95 shipping inc.

however first tell me what year your truck is. I no longer reccomend my jig kit for 1st gens. (89-93)

and 2nd gens 94 up through 96. because especially on the 1st gens a bolt is about as likely to fall out

as the dowel pin. I'll give you more info if you want later, Harold

Also-you need to remove fan and follow directions-her is the directions link-http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Dowel_Pin/bolt.htm

or to tab it-http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Dowel_Pin/tab.htm

Hope this helps-Have fun killing them things!

 

[MMiller]

As seen in my signature, I own a 93 and a 90. Plus my brother has a 94 and my dad has a 95.



The jig uses a hole in the front cover with an allen screw in it, and that holds the dowel. I guess I had that idea, but did not get it out correctly here. Since I want to remove the cover and check the bolts, then I do not need the jig kit.



Thanks for the info so far Harold.



Michael

 

[Ncostello]

You don't need to drain the coolant and remove any hoses or anything. The fan nut is reverse... so stick the wrench on there and rap it good toward the driver side of the truck. And... a normal wrench of that size is perhaps too thick to fit down in there. I made a special wrench out of a flat plate of steel and welded a handle on it.



None the less... I'm a big fan of removing the cover, staking the hole and putting some wicking locktite around the pin. I also like the tab idea... which won't work on some cases.



I know the jig method is good and works for many. But on my 99 I did... if I would have drilled the hole to the correct depth... I would have drilled into the bossed (raised) area around the pin bore. My truck couldn't use the tab because of this bossed area either. It would have to been stair step shaped to go under the bolt head and over the bore opening.



My parts were new gasket for the cover, new front seal kit and some Cummins Triple Bond Grey RTV. I used a very thin smear of RTV on each side of the gasket. I also used some metric long studs to install in the block to align the cover right the first time. Then remove them and install the bolts etc. Installing the new seal in the front cover is trickiest... just take your time and have a flat work bench to work on and some wood to hold your cover level while you install the seal.



The first one you do will seem hardest. Later you'll think of it as a piece of cake. Well worth it. Check your auto belt tensioner while your around there too. May be time to replace it before it wears out.



My initial thoughts on the jig for my truck were that I would have put tons of shavings inside the engine and no known it... because I was looking at photos on an engine with a slightly different case cover. I like taking the front cover off. Its not hard at all and gives you some good experience inside the engine. Plus you can tighten the other bolts which could be just as deadly as a KDP.

 

[MMiller]

Thanks, guys. The links, instructions, and opiniions was what I was looking for. I will get to do project this winter sometime.



Michael

 

[Mel Fuelling]

Michael,

I believe that Ncostello's description contains the best KDP solution for 1st Gens for the following 4 reasons: 1) It will just cost 30+ dollars for a front seal from cummins, 2)it allows you to solve all known potential problems under the front cover(not just the dowel pin), 3) it may take you up to 3 1/2 hours for the first one like it did me(probably half of that retorquing bolts under the front cover), but you will probably do the rest of them in 2 hours or a little less, and 4) it allows you to become better acquainted with the 5. 9 and see exactly what you are doing which was more comforting to me than using a dowel jig.



Three things that I would add: 1) At the suggestion of a Cummins tech, I used ultra black silicone instead of the front cover gasket and so far its dry. 2) If you leave the radiator in, cut a piece of good cardboard the same size as the radiator so that it doesn't get damaged, and 3) shorten your gouge punch by two or three inches so that you have more room to swing a two pound hammer to stake the dowel pin bore without hitting the cardboard that is protecting your radiator.



This may be the most productive elective preventative maintenance project you will ever do for a Cummins.



Good luck,

PM me if you have any questions.

Mel