Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) kdp ?s

[Mhannink]

alright i finally got my mom to let me tear into her truck and fix the kdp but i have a few questions before i start



1. if its part way out whats wrong w/ just pulling it out or should i just shove it back in



2. what is the best way to tab it i don't have time to order a part so it whatever i can pickup at a hardware or auto store.



3. will i need a new front gasket.



4. how long will this take aproxamatly.



5. what do i need to take out to get at this thing.



if i think of anymore ill post

 

[Johnstra]

1. Tap it back in. It helps align the gear housing and support the weight of the p-pump

2. I bought mine, but you can probably grind a big washer down.

3. Yes... and a new front crank seal

4. It took me 4 hours or so and I'm slooooow

5. belt, fan and shroud, speed sensor, oil fill tube, overflow bottle, move washer fluid bottle aside



While you're in there, you should loctite as many of the gear housing bolts as you can get to.



Joe G will send you a nice writeup if you PM him.



-john

 

[MGarland]

Take the time to call TST and order the kit, It is well worth the money and the instructions are very detailed. Just my . 02.

MGarland

 

[Mhannink]

i would but i have a narrow time slot and i doubt that i can get the tst kit in by sat



johnstra ill pm joe g thanks

 

[Mhannink]

ok another ? how would tapping the kdp and screwing a blot on w/ some thread lock to hold it back. ive never seen inside these engines so i don't know how well it would work/fit any advise thanks

 

[WDixon27]

tapping describes knocking the pin back into it's hole not installing threads in it, theres a bolt a inch or so away from it so a metal tab about the size of your thumb stuck under that bolt covering the pin will keep it in check, it's located in the upper left area of the case

ok another ? how would tapping the kdp and screwing a blot on w/ some thread lock to hold it back. ive never seen inside these engines so i don't know how well it would work/fit any advise thanks

 

[JSienkowski]

You'll also have to remove the harmonic balencer-you will need a puller for that-hope yours comes off easier than mine.

 

[Johnstra]

I think it's rare that you need a puller for the balancer... 4 bolts and off it comes. But JS is right, it has to come off too.

 

[surfbeetle]

I got the TST kit, it stated you could do it with the radiator still in place. While this is true, I opted to pull the Radiator so I had more room to work and would not risk any damage to it. In addition, by doing it that way, I could clean the radiator fins out easier.

 

[Mhannink]

tapping describes knocking the pin back into it's hole not installing threads in it, theres a bolt a inch or so away from it so a metal tab about the size of your thumb stuck under that bolt covering the pin will keep it in check, it's located in the upper left area of the case

i was thinking about just putting threads in it and threading in a bolt but if there a bolt real close then yeah a little tab works great to keep it in

 

[jeepullr]

i was thinking about just putting threads in it and threading in a bolt but if there a bolt real close then yeah a little tab works great to keep it in

You're working to hard... Just do the tab off of the bolt that's a few cm a way. You will need a longer bolt. Get the directions from Joe G. I got the kit from TST. took like 2 days to get here... I know that don't get it to you tomorrow... but maybe you should look at this a little more, and wait till next weekend.



I left my radiator in place, and was going to leave my upper radiator hose in place but it was very much in the way... Spent about an hour trying to drain the radiator, but my drain is clogged or something... nothing would flow out... So I didn't pull my hose off... Kinda wish I had, I think it would have shaved off some time. Both TST and Joe G's directions are excellent. I used both.

 

[JSienkowski]

Sort of related, If you don't use a puller how do you get the balancer off??

 

[Johnstra]

The balancer is not a press fit; it just bolts onto the end of the crank shaft.

-john

 

[SMEdevoted]

on a side note, does anyone know the size of the replacement bolt that is sold in the KDP repair kit? i know it is a little longer than stock, but I am getting ready to fix my dad's truck and he already bought the front seal - so i don't want to buy the kit. is the longer bolt really necessary?

 

[surfbeetle]

Basically, if I remember correctly, the bolt is longer by the same amount as the thickness of the tab that comes with the kit. Yes you want a longer bolt because you still need the same number of threads to hold it in place at the proper torque. BTW, you also have to use red threadlocker on them. When we did mine, we removed, applied the threadlocker and retorqued all of the bolts on the front of the gear casing. They were all loose.

 

[Mhannink]

ok ya'll i tried to fix it today but the damn fan wouldn't budge so whats a trick to get it off