kdp

[914x4ctd]

I am sure that I am supposed to know this by now. I just havent seen any posts since I have registered. I would like to stop my kdp before it stops me. What is the best reccommended method that I can do at home with normal tools? What is this jig that I hear about and how does it stop the pin. I have heard of people making a tab to cover the hole. Does this work? Is there a nearby bolt or something to attach a tab to? Are there any pics out there?

Jeff

 

[Forrest Nearing]

do a search on the 2nd gen forums. I believe there's a sticky at the top of the 12v forum.



The first gens didn't have as many problems w/ the KDP as the 2nd gens (I believe due to the weight of the P pump vs. the old VE pump.



BUT, I would still recomend doing the tab method. all it is is a ground down fender washer. there is a bolt right next to the KDP, and you bolt the tab down with it, and it prevents it from backing out.



I would drive the pin back into the block (if it's moved at all) hit it with some green (wicking) locktite, and tab it. you'll sleep like a baby after that!



Forrest

 

[quikshft]

I did my pin a couple weeks back. I used the tab method and I bought a kit from TST with the parts needed to do the job. I did modify the tab they supplied... the 1st gen. engines have a 'step' up to the surface of the pin hole compared to the hole the bolt used to hold the tab in place.

The 'jig' you hear about is a method of properly placing and drilling a hole thru the side of the gear cover after which the hole is tapped and then a bolt is installed into the new hole. The axis of the hole is perpendicular to the axis of the 'pin hole' and the extended threads of the new bolt actually protrude into the case to block the pin from backing out. The reason I went with the tab method is because I've also read (here) that some of the bolts which hold the gear case to the front of the engine may also be loose. While I had this all apart, I pulled all those bolts out, cleaned the holes and locktited them into place. The jig method spares you the work of taking the gear cover off the front of the engine, but you don't/can't do anything about the (potentially) loose gear case bolts. I wanted to not have to worry about that either.

 

[Case500D]

91,



I did the KDP on my W-350 last summer. I pulled the front cover and drove the pin back about 1/8". I cleaned the hole/pin with a bit of carb cleaner and air, then used some green locktite on it. Finally I took a punch and rolled the edges of the hole over the KDP. Then I took all of the timming cover bolts out, cleaned them, and then put blue locktite on them. I found one or two loose bolts. I also cleaned the radiator while I had it out. Took me less than a day to do. I think I can do the W-250 in about 4 hours now. Good luck.



Jeremy

 

[AlK]

914x4,

Take a look at the following;

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/hrrs994/kdp/

http://www.jasonh.net/john



For the jig fix get in touch with the Northwest Bombers they maybe able to help you out.

http://nwbombers.com/



---

Al

 

[Philip]

Before you get carried away on the Jig fix. Here is a little reading



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=80817&highlight=broken+camshaft





Here is some more reading.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=68247



I pulled my cover off about a month after Case500D did his. I found the same bolts loose in my cover.



I would suggest you pull the cover and fix it that way. The extra work to tighten bolts is better than a possible broken cam.

 

[Tim1]

My pin was also out about 1\8" and if you use the jig, you will have to go in anyway because the pin has moved out and you can't cage it. My timing cover bolts were also loose, locktite them, no big deal and certainly not a big project to do this job! All 12valve engines are vulnuble to this malady!!!!! Just look in archives. Tim

 

[914x4ctd]

Well guys,

I guess that I should remove the cover. I appreciate all of the pics and responses. Where else could I get the gasket other than my dodge dealer? Is the existing bolt long enough for the tab also or should I put a longer bolt? I just do not want to have to go into town for the parts after I have it apart.

Thank you

Jeff

 

[Tim1]

Take the numbers of your cpl or the old gasket to a cummins dealer or any dealer that uses the B cummins for power for the gasket. Bolt depends on the thickness of the tab. Locktite with blue. You have to get the timing cover seal also, as you probable already know. My 92 numbers:seal 3804899 (25. 63) gasket:3914385 (15. 68) barring tool:3824591 (29. 08) prices last year. New dowellpin Dodge: 04429257 Good luck. They had 2 gaskets in these early models. Tim

 

[914x4ctd]

tim1,

Thank you for all of the numbers. I have a Dodge dealer in town but the parts guys there are not of much knowledge. There are a few tractor shops about 20mi down the road. What else is the b series used in. There is a Caterpillar store, an IH Case store, and a John Deere store. Do any of those tractors use the B series cummins? Is there anybody that has mail order parts? Thank you for all of the help.

Jeff

 

[Paychk]

The "B" engine was designed for Case Equipment so they should be able to help you. Not sure on the John Deer, but the parts guys at JD would know in a heartbeat.

 

[SRadke]

Case IH uses Cummins motors in a lot of equipment.



-Scott