Keeping your R.V. cool...

[CLAYTON]

Does your trailer keep cool better with the main AC duct blasting out cold air or with it shut and the air coming out of the vents through out the trailer. I've got a 13. 5 air conditioner and a 31ft 5th wheel. Just curious.

 

[TowPro]

I use both. My 2000 Terry EX model had very little insulation. In the heat the AC would only be 10 deg below the outside temp. On a 100 deg day it would hit 90 inside. I added a grill you can open and close that allows the AC to blow down into the center area and the problem got a little better (maybe 5 deg better).



Now the new camper has much better insulation, and doors that allow you to close off the top and back bedrooms. it also came with the AC vent you can open to redirect all the AC air into the main living area.



We will see how it works out this summer when we make or summer trip to the outerbanks.



If your RV is 30' or larger, and your going to park out in the direct sun I really think the answer is 2 roof top units but then you need 50 amp service. I wish the heat pump people would start building for RV's. They are starting to sell basement AC's but way over priced.

 

[RColston]

On my late model Teton, both the supply and return is ducted, which I believe Newmar started doing first, therefore there is no main register to open or close.

 

[TowPro]

This register you can open and close is for "fast cool down". When its open, air blows direct out of AC and bypasses ducts. When I bought one for my Terry, the dealer said heat load on ducts is pretty high because in most RV's the duct is as tall as ceeling and there is no room for insulation. Now my Titanium the duct is made out of blue styrofoam insulation.

 

[EricBu12]

Keeping RV coo in heat. . BOY let me tell you a story! (yikes)



I have a 36' Keystone Raptor toyhauler that has a 12' garage...



Hs a 15K BTU A/C and is ducted...



problem ... Insulation... . 2 areas...



1. when we went to monument valley and it was 110 deg in the shade, the A/C could not keep up. found out that the place above the storage compartment which is the floor of the coach had NO insulation... . Used 2" foam block panels (R-10 value) to line this floor... also above the generator...



There was also no insulation in the front cap... was able to see the fibreglass cap from the closet! put 3 strips of Insulation Batting in there... then the last place where there was no insulation is the rear of the pantry next to the fridge... the back wall of the pantry is the vent area for the fridge... well that was hot in there so it radiated out to the room... more foam blocks there... .



The last thing I did was to get a second A/C unit for over the front bedroom as it is wired for it... . I bought a regular 13. 5 K BTU A/C that only has the inside vents and hooked it up..... I have 50 amp service and I have a 5500 Onan Gen. With both units on low, I am able to cool the trailer now when it is hot... . the main unit blows some inside and vents and the other unit helps to cool and circulate... . works well.



In my opinion. if you have a trailer longer than 28' you should have 2 A/C units like the regular motorhomes do...



Eric

 

[Rd.Runnr]

Another trick for better cooling is to open all cabinets as soon as you arrive. Opening them later re-heats indide of trailer. Window awnings are a good option in many cases.



Some manufacturers offer heat pumps as an option; I have had them on my last 2 Alpenlites.

 

[JThiessen]

My '05 Keystone Laredo doesnt have a "main" vent either. Just ducts in the ceiling.

IF it did have a main one, I would use it for fast cool down, then switch to the ducts.

 

[nps]

I've got 2 ACs. The front AC blows into the bedroom and kitchen. I use the fast cool ducts to cool the living and dining area.



On milder days when I don't want to run both units I'll open the ducts.

 

[Todd T]

like Eric said insulation is your friend!



another place i find to be a problem in the duct of the ac unit itself. mine was just a metal duct that ran up out of the roof and blew through the A coil and back into the trailer. some of the higher end units have this duct insulated on the inside of it with 1/2 thick glued on woolen looking stuff. I insulated mine with foam from the local hardware (box) store. also mine had air leaks between the return and feed sides where the air would just transfer across rather than take the more restrictive path of the air ducts.

 

[starkmr]

I too use the main to fast cool the trailer and then switch to the ducts. I haven't had too much problem with only one A/C on my 30' Keystone in Arizona, but then I haven't had to live in it during June!!!





Mike

 

[Hitec.Redneck]

Does your trailer keep cool better with the main AC duct blasting out cold air or with it shut and the air coming out of the vents through out the trailer. I've got a 13. 5 air conditioner and a 31ft 5th wheel. Just curious.

I had a 26' with a 13. 5K BTU AC and it would not keep the unit cool on hot days. I now have a 30' trailer with a 15K BTU AC and it cools much better.