Kerosene/used motor oil/diesel mix

[Dieselnut59]

As many of yall know, we had an overblown "fuel crisis" in the Southeast this week. There was actually no fuel shortage until the media overblew the situation and people started heading for the stations. In among this mob, I decided to top off my 1998 (12 valve) service truck, which I depend on for a living. The lines to the stores were rediculious and diesel was $3 or more a gallon! Even off road was right at $3 a gallon! The lines were horrible and many stations ran out. I headed straight for the Kerosene pump and put about 15 gallons of $2. 31/gallon undyed Kerosene in my tank. I stopped pumping just after the pump clicked off, which I knew would give me around 2-3 gallons of more tank space. I then went back to the shop and added 3 gallons of clean used motor oil (from monthly serviced propane forklifts). I have been running that all week in my truck and the Yanmar powered air compressor which runs off the truck's tank. No additional smoke or loss of performance. I have been running 3 gallons of oil per tankfull for several months now and have noticed no additional smoke or loss of power or economy. A friend of mine has been running half kero and half off road diesel for several months now with no problem. The kero is undyed (clear) and the off road diesel is red, but when they are mixed, it looks close to the regular diesel color. Performance/smell/smoke is no different. Just thought yall might want some options to the high price of fuel.

 

[keimmmo]

I have run kerosene before as well. When I do, I load it with used motor oil to regain the lubrication lost with the thinner fuel. It really makes a cheap brew! Like you said, it runs fine.



Personally, I add at least a quart of motor oil to 5 gallons of kero... plus the usual gallon of oil with every fill... usually works out to 8-10 quarts. You are adding 12. Should work fine in my opinion.



Steve

 

[mhenon]

I often thought that "if" I could get straight Kreosene. . I would rather use it then D2. Isn't it a cleaner fuel (less sulfer and ash)? Add about 5% biodiesel to the Kero and you would have great mix. I know there's less power in kerosene then D2. . but who cares. The Cummins has more power than I ever use anyway.

It does surprise me to see kerosene cheaper then D2 at some stations. . but any time I do. . it's going in along with some lubricant and I don't think twice about it.

Mike

 

[67guzzler]

There are some serious lubricity and corrosion issues with Kerosine. Cummins publishes a paper (I'll try to look for it) where they compare the makeup of the different types of fuels (#1, #2, Jet, Home Heating Oil, Kerosine, etc... ) and Home Heating Oil was the closest in makeup to #2 diesel followed by Jet. Kerosine was so harsh that it was 3rd or 4th down the list. They said that fuel system / injector pump issues were the biggest concern.



I guess the idea to blend motor oil with it is the right idea. But I'd want to know exactly how much I need to blend to get the proper lubricity or even if it's possible to get the same lubricity as #2 diesel with the Kerosine / Motor oil combo.

 

[Cooker]

12v pumps are a little different animal. Other than adding a little additive for lubricity I do not persoanlly see anything wrong with running it in a 12v nor would I be concerned about any potential damage to the pump or injection system. You will take a little hit in HP and economy.

 

[keimmmo]

As I understand it, the biggest problem with kero is a lack of lubricant. If you pour in enough oil, you overcome that problem... and it seems to help with the power and economy loss as well.



A friend who fought in the first gulf war tells me that they ran a whole fleet of 12 valve CTD trucks on jet fuel. They ran fine, but had problems with injection pumps seizing. The solution? Add a quart of motor oil to each tank of jet fuel. The problem went away. If it worked for them, why won't it work for us?



Steve Keim

 

[Paychk]

I would add 2-stroke oil, instead of motor oil, it is formulated to burn.

 

[Grizzly]

I would not mess with any home brew type fuel. The oil industries and the diesel manufactures spend million of dollars to provide the best possible blend for our fuel. Let the expert do the mixing. The best thing we can do to save $ is to drive less and drive slower.

 

[Dieselnut59]

I would not mess with any home brew type fuel. The oil industries and the diesel manufactures spend million of dollars to provide the best possible blend for our fuel. Let the expert do the mixing. The best thing we can do to save $ is to drive less and drive slower.

You are exactly the kind of driver I constantly CUSS! God, I hate that "drive slower to save fuel" theory! That used to be the case in the days before overdrive transmissions! Now, if most vehicles go anything under 55-60, they are lugging or, if automatic, going into and out of overdrive constantly, which also wastes fuel. I can go 70-75 mph on an interstate continiously and get 18-20 mpg. I can do 55-60 mph continiously on a two-lane road and still get 18-20 mpg. Speed is not as big of an issue with fuel economy as it used to be before the days of overdrive. You could save more by keeping your tires properly inflated.

 

[keimmmo]

Alan,



While I agree that 2-cycle oil would be a good lube and burn well, I think you miss one of the major points... PRICE. I would have to BUY 2-cycle oil. Drain oil is FREE!!! A farmer friend up in Illinois just wrote last might and offered me all the 15W-40 Rotella drain oil I can use for when I go to Illinois in October. He has a TANK of it that he has drained out of his equipment! I plan to run a couple of gallons of it in every tank of diesel... a lot more if I find cheap kerosene!!!



For the rest of you, I already maintain my truck well. I ALWAYS check my tire pressure before a trip! Although I have my insane moments, I am known to be a conservative driver who can usually get better fuel economy than the average person. While here at home in Mexico, I go days at a time without even starting my truck... I am within walking distance of most of the stores I need. Still, $3. 00 per gallon fuel is going to get into my pocket when I go to the States! I am looking for ways to reduce my operating costs!



Steve Keim

 

[poor]

Not much point here in AZ-as kerosene is higher than #2!

 

[dodge cummins]

hey keimmo, did he use used oil in the gulf or did they buy a quart for each tank? i can't use my used oil because i use all mobil 1. is there anythinjg wrong with buying a cheap quart of motor oil say 5w30 and adding to my tank of diesel for increased lubricant?

 

[CumminSense]

curious how you used oil burners recommend filtering the stuff before it goes into the tank. I'm looking for practical effective filter advice, hopefully not too $$$.



Kero here in mountains of VA is $1. 99 today vs. $2. 89 #2 -- that's significant enough for me to want to go with kero/used motor oil.



Thanks to all on the TDR.



-- Steve

 

[mhenon]

Just got off a web-page where they were blending Kerosene and WVO (Waste Veggie Oil). They used the Kero instead of D2 as it was much thinner and brought the mixture close to regular D2 as far as viscosity goes. Interesting!

You have to be carefull with these blends of used oil/diesel fuel/kerosene/regular gas/etc. . Clean fuel is key to a healthy injector pump. Those of us with the 2nd gen Cummins and it's somewhat fragile VP44 need to be extra careful.

Having said that... if I could buy Kerosene at $1. 99 per gallon... I'ed be all over it. Just figure out how much oil is needed to bring the viscosity up close to D2 (it can't need much) and go for it. Still think it's generally a cleaner fuel to begin with (compared to D2). Most of it around here is sold for oil lamps or portable indoor heaters. They don't want soot or fumes coming from the fuel so you go with kero. Gotta be cleaner.

As for letting the experts do the blending... . they do it all the time here in the northern states. D1 (kerosene) and D2 are blended 50/50 during the winter months to keep the fuel from gelling. They truckers would be howling if D1 was causing problems.

Mike

 

[keimmmo]

I relocated my lift pump just ahead of the fuel tank since electric pumps like to push, not pull. Besides, it is a lot cooler and vibrates a lot less on the frame than on the side of the motor!!! I have no complaints about my lift pump life!



I run a pre-filter just after the lift pump. I use a Champ filter #LFF-5D. I'm not sure about the micron ratings, but in talking with some of the engineers at Champion Labs, they told me it is a perfect pre-filter for my truck since the micron rating is just slightly more than the factory filter. I can buy a base for it at the Cummins dealer down here in Mexico for about $7. 00. I have NO IDEA what the part number is!



I used to filter my used oil, but it was slow and a mess. I have found that if I just pour the used oil into gallon jugs and let it set in a warm place for at least a week before using it, most of the "crud" settles to the bottom. I always leave just a little in the bottom of the jug when I pour it into the fuel tank... with the majority of the dirt.



I have a fuel pressure gauge and run my filters until I see a slight drop in fuel pressure... then change both filters. I commonly get 25k out of a pair of filters, so it is cost effective.



I would say that the oil you are adding will determine how much you add to the kero. If you are using thin multi-weight oil, a couple of quarts to 5 gallons would be about right. If you are using heavier oil, a quart should do the job. I also add an additional gallon to every tank, so on a 25 gallon fill, I would add 9-14 quarts of oil! Makes CHEAP fuel!!!



In Illinois kero is about the same price as diesel... often even more expensive. However, I get over to Indiana once in a while and it is CHEAP over there! I run it when I get a chance!



Steve

 

[Grizzly]

You are exactly the kind of driver I constantly CUSS! God, I hate that "drive slower to save fuel" theory! That used to be the case in the days before overdrive transmissions! Now, if most vehicles go anything under 55-60, they are lugging or, if automatic, going into and out of overdrive constantly, which also wastes fuel. I can go 70-75 mph on an interstate continiously and get 18-20 mpg. I can do 55-60 mph continiously on a two-lane road and still get 18-20 mpg. Speed is not as big of an issue with fuel economy as it used to be before the days of overdrive. You could save more by keeping your tires properly inflated.

You must have a slush box transmission because I get much better mileage at 55-60 than I do at 70-75 with my 6 speed. Cuss all you want and I'll laugh all the way to the bank.

 

[Cooker]

You must have a slush box transmission because I get much better mileage at 55-60 than I do at 70-75 with my 6 speed. Cuss all you want and I'll laugh all the way to the bank.

I agree. My best all time mileage was when I was stuck in a heavy snow storm and my max speed averaged 55MPH. When I filled up I couldn't belive it. With that tank I got 4MPG better than I ever did before.

 

[barbwire]

i can't use my used oil because i use all mobil 1.

I was wondering about this. Won't synthetic oil burn like dino oil? I also use Mobil 1, and I was going to filter my drainings and dump it in my fuel tank. Will you enlighten me as to why it is detrimental? Many thanx

 

[DragonflyDriver]

You must have a slush box transmission because I get much better mileage at 55-60 than I do at 70-75 with my 6 speed. Cuss all you want and I'll laugh all the way to the bank.

No doubt.

 

[Midnite]

If empty I can get better milage by keeping my speed under 60, but if I have the camper in the truck then I need to keep the speed at 60 or higher for best milage with my NV4500. I also have 255/85-R16 tires, which are taller than the stock 265s, so that also has something to do with it.



Mike