Key Out = Strange noise behind instrument cluster and Door Locks NOT working

[seafish]

Pretty much what the title says.

Today in town, as I hopped out of the truck to get lunch, I used the master door lock switch on DS door to lock up the truck.
And NOTHING happened.

I figured that the master door switch wiring had finally failed, so I used the key fob to lock the doors. And still NOTHING happened.

Being hungry, I just locked all the doors by hand (actually I wonder if one can even still do that in newer trucks?? ) and then had a nice lunch.

Back at the truck, I used the key fob to unlock the doors.
And, obviously, still NOTHING happened.

Then unlocked DS door with the key and sat in the drivers seat, where I heard a strange pulsing/clicking coming from behoind the instrument cluster. I again tried all master switches, all door switches and the key fob...and still NOTHING happened.

Hmmmm...oh well...not really a catastrophe...going to head home to look into deeper. I put the key ion ignition switch to start the truck, and immediately the strange pulsing noise STOPPED ...as soon as I simply inserted the key...did NOT even turn the cylinder.

So I turned the key to on cylinder .., still NO noise.
Turned the key off, NO noise.... removed the key and pulsing noise started again...Put the key in the ...noise stopped!!! WTF??

In a burst of sudden inspiration, with the key inserted into ignition cylinder, I tried locking/unlocking and with the master switch ... and they DID!!
And I tried locking and unlocking with the key fob...and they DID!!!~

Removed key from cylinder, and door locks would no longer work.

Drove home and then recorded a short video of the noise staring and stopping with key insertion and removal, but unfortunately I cant post it here...not sure why but pretty sure it has NOTHING to do with the door locks.

That said, I am thinking that the door lock problem and the strange noise have something to do with the BCM or SKIM modules, but not really the ignition switch.

In the morning I am going to disconnect both the batteries in order to hard reset the ECM and other modules and see if that fixes it.

ANYBODY have any other GOOD ideas ???

TIA

 

[Yo Hoot]

Following

 

[Topzide]

There is a switch that is in the ignition cylinder that registers when the key has been inserted. Starts the blasted ding, ding sound that drives us nuts! This might have a relay of sorts that is completing the circuit for the switches to work. Any warning before this happened?

 

[seafish]

^^^
No warning whatsoever.

While I haven't needed to be driving the truck much these days, I have intermittently kept it on a trickle charger and she has been turning over fast and starting fine.

Will post back later today after I disconnect the batteries and let all the modules reset but PLEASE do post up ANY ideasI should look into in the meantime.

WISH I could post the sound file here...it is such a strange only slightly irregular pulsing/clicking noise...almost like a bats echolocation, but more audible...kind of why I think it might be the SKIM module acting up, but as far as I know, my 2005 does NOT have a SKIM system...only the key fob (un)locking ability.

 

[seafish]

just tried following FSM but CANNOT get cluster sweep gauges or to read codes...
Can ONLY read engine hours if I keep holding odometer after turning ignition, but NO self test if I release the odometer button after turning the key to ON.

Followed these FSM instructions for EMIC test--
(1) Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.
(2) Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
(3) While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to
the On position, but do not start the engine.
(4) Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
(5) The instrument cluster will simultaneously illuminate all of the operational segments in both VFD units, perform a bulb check of each operational LED indicator.
(6) The text “C Code” is displayed in the odometer VFD for about three seconds. If there is no stored fault information, the display will show two pairs of zeroes in the format “00” “00”, which indicate that the display of fault information is done. ETC.


So update is ....NO cluster self test possible right now.
ALSO, doors are no longer locking or unlocking with key in or out of the cylinder.

Disconnected BOTH battery grounds will report back in awhile.

 

[seafish]

Dodged a bullet...

As planned, I left both battery grounds disconnected for about an hour and then hooked them back up.

Then tried instrument cluster self test per FSM again ... this time it worked...

ALL instrument gauge dials and lights swept through their full range. Even better, with the ECM and all modules hard reset, the door locks and key fob are all working again!!!

Cluster codes registered: 67 59, 68 01, and A3 01
Note that the A3 01 code was simply from disconnecting the batteries

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I am thinking that what happened is the result of battery voltage drop from not driving, or trickle charging it, often enough, made one of the cluster relays or modules stick ... thus the pulsing/clicking sound that I hard at steering column or dash.

After driving the truck to town, the battery voltage came right back up, but relay/module was still stuck and I just didn't notice until I tried locking the doors. Thats my theory anyhow.

Battery voltage is 12.5 right now after reconnecting them...will keep the truck intermittently on the trickle charger for rest of winter.