Kilby on board air for 24v

[rubberneck]

Ok im going to order the york compressor and bracket this week. Questions for those of you that have put it on. I want to run a tank. Which tank did you get and where did you guys mount them. I would prefer to hide it under the truck and i dont want to see it hanging down. Did you get the oil/h2o separator that he sells. Im thinking i will get this also. If I want to use the oil return kit that plumbs into the bottom of the separator and the fill hole on the york, does the filter need to be at or above the level of the compressor to work correctly?? Also is there any tips you would offer if you were doing it again. I've been thinking of yanking the passenger side battery and mounting all my accesories there. (pressure switch, regulator etc. ) Anybody else got some cool ideas or better yet pictures.

 

[tgbol]

I haven't got the Onboard Air set up yet, but for an air tank I have a tank off of a big rig mounted to the bottom of the bed. It is out side the frame ahead of the right rear wheel. I bought mine new with the brackets, but you can pick one up pretty cheap from a truck salage yard.

I thought that you didn't the oiler set up if you used an York compressor, it has its sealed oil supply. The Sandan type needs to have oil injected into the inlet to lubercate it.

 

[rubberneck]

Thanks for the reply on the tank. Thats where i was thinking i would put it. You are correct on the oiler, that is only needed on the sanden from what i can tell. What i was wondering about is a filter that separates out any oil that escapes from the pump and stores it in a reservoir. Instead of draining the filter and occasionally refilling the oil in the york compressor, you can just open the valve and return the oil to the compressor. i am going to call onboardair tomorrow to order my system, i will post what i end up with.

 

[Jamie Attridge]

search the web for air ride tanks or ebay thats what your looking for I have a 9 gallon attached under my hitch on the bottom of the truck.

 

[Mtngoat]

Rubberneck, do you have an internet site for the system your talking about??



Robin

 

[Mtngoat]

Never mind, I found it, it would help if I spelled Kilby correctly in the search. . Duh!!



Robin

 

[willyslover]

for the interested folks. .

http://www.onboardair.com/

 

[EricBu12]

on that on-board air bracket, make sure you have a nippendenso alt. If it says bosch on the back then the kit wont work. they are trying to make a bracket for the bosch alt but not done yet... .

I E-mailed them about it and thats what they said.....

 

[mschoenheider]

If you want to save some money and if you have a good salvage yard near you, you can get York model 210 compressors in almost all 1970s and 1980s Volvos that have air conditioning. They almost never go bad, and you can pick one up for about $20 rather than the $200 to $300 for a new or rebuilt unit.

Mark

 

[rubberneck]

Ordered everything today. should be here this week so i can put it in on my next day off. I ordered everything new from kilby. I got a 2. 5 gal tank that will be mounted outside the frame rail tucked up inside the bed in front of the pass side rear wheel. I got a new york 210 compressor, flange fittings and clutch. I also ordered a water/h2o separator, regulator, pressure switch, blowoff valve, one way valve with unloader, tank drain valve and a bunch of plumbing accesories and hoses. You could most definitely save a little dough if you wanted to do some leg work and source out the compressor and clutch used. I think i am going to run aircraft fittings and stainless braided hose from the compressor to the separator and air distribution block just for looks in the engine compartment, everything else will probably be in synflex or the like. Will keep you all posted on the system and anything i would do different when i get it up an running. Oh yeah, and i did verify that i have the ND alternator.

 

[MWilleford]

Oil Seperator.... needed

I also used the Kilby mounting bracket, which worked great! Hopefully with luck, I will be finishing the system this month. I was going to build and mount a steel air tank under the bed... but I am now looking at using Sch40 PVC pipe under the passenger side floor board (6"X3' pipe not visible when walking around the vehicle, nor does it hamper ground clearence). The PVC wont rust, weighs alot less, and easier to work with(kinda). I'll update when I do more research and decide



Sanden comperssors do require oil injected to lubircate... The Yorks have a lubricating oil sump, connected to the inlet port through a passage by the front seal... .



I blocked the port from the sump to the seal(drilled & plugged), installed a pressure releif in the top drain port (just in case the york compressor cannot handle the 125 possible system pressure for case pressure)(but I think it can). Mine has been mounted for a few weeks--- not used yet to pump air, as I have just orderd a clutch. Oil came out of the lower port when I removed the cap this weekend from the inlet port. :{

Oil will get by the piston rings... I'm afraid that no matter what I do some oil will bypass (I tried though). I was not going to install an oil seperator, but now it looks like i will be (air horns and oil do not mix in my opinion).

PS: I filled the case to the recommended level, measured with the York dip stick.

 

[rubberneck]

Yeah, that's why i was thinking of getting the oil return kit. I didn't order it, but it looks simple enough. If i find myself constantly draining the separator and refilling the york, maybe i'll just make one up.

 

[willyslover]

may I suggest you re-think the schedule 40... we have way to much flex and vibration in our rigs... please use steel... at the very least if you must use plastic use schedule 80... no flame intended

 

[Jamie Attridge]

The best hose I have found is the airbrake hose for onboard air stuff.