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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Killer Dowel Pin Fixed!

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) ? about #53 12 valve blocks

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Thanks to Harold Bowers my killer dowel pin has been fixed (or, as Harold puts it, “the killer dowel pin was relieved”). We did the tab fix and checked the bolts while we were at it. OK, to be honest Harold did it, but I did hold the light for him. :) Harold made it look really easy. The pin was out slightly- maybe 1/16".



Thanks Harold! Oo.



Gene
 
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good to meet ya finnally gene and enjoyed the visit



glad the deed is done. no more worries. harold prolly did 500 of these fixes by now



an awesome looking 96. here is some pics



bolts were tight and had the brown locktite/thread sealer on each one



see ya at the dyno :D
 
Congratulations! Almost like under going a successful sugery, neh? Nice looking rig.



I talked to Harold yesterday about his jig kit. He was asking $99. 99 for it. In fact, you folks could have been out in the shop fixing your truck when I called. Probably chuckling about getting the sucker from WY to cover the beer/chips expenses, right? Mentioned that I got his number from muddymess's reply to my KDP thread. Whew--can't believe the half of what he said about ol' muddy. Oh well, with friends like that..... :-laf



Anyway decided to do the tab instead. That way I can redo the cap screws and the belt. I would be doing it right now but I couldn't get the front seal at NAPA. They suggested Dodge. I suggested in a pig's arse too--I would go to Rocky Mtn. Cummins first. So since I will be in Billings next weekend I'll pick up the parts then. Have you guys been replacing or reusing the cover gasket or RTVing?



Unless, folks have successfully re-used the old seal. OUCH... . yes I know better. But I had to ask, since I have the time and really want to do the KDP fix this weekend. Times in short supply before I head for AK. :cool:
 
Trail Dog,



Harold reused the gasket but put silicone sealer on it. By the way, he also installed the seal from the rear of the cover. He says it is much easier that way.



I was going to take pics of the job but I forgot my camera. Muddy Mess saved the day. It was my first time to meet either Harold or MM. Harold has an impressive shop!



Gene
 
:-laf OTD,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,that 99 bucks wont cover our after bomb party beer expenses. :D gotta get harold to double the charges :) we drink our beer where the waitreses work for tips... ... ... ... ..... and TIPS ALONE :D



dang ol harold,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,dont believe half of what he sez bout me :( prolly dont wanna believe the other half either. ;)



wise to do the tab so ya can check bolts as ya have no ?????????????? bout the status of locktite on the bolts. keep up posted on that if ya would please. betcha it has brown thread sealer,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,however skimpaly applied on each bolt. also,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, no need to use a longer bolt. the tab aint that thick, in fact cummins tab is really thin. an exceptiopn be joe georges thick tab which be purty thick where a longer bolt be necesary
 
10-4 on that seal Gene. I have about beat my fingers and the installer to death doing it from the outside. It works fine to install it from the rear, then use the installer on the front side to set the depth, then use the installer to locate/center the cover on the crankshaft.



One more thing, seals with the Teflon lip (O/E type) MUST GO ON BONE DRY, any oil or other lube here, and you may have a leak. Sounds ????? I know, but the theory is the the seal will heat enough on start up to actually transfer a very thin layer of Teflon onto the crankshaft. By doing this, it will have a near perfect seal that will not wear the crank or the seal. Seams to work because a lot of O/E's are doing it.
 
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