Killer dowel pin on the move!

[R.ebel]

Upon removal of the gearcase cover it was discovered that the gearcase locating dowel pin had migrated forward about 1/4"!!! It was still a tight fit, could'nt pull it out with a STRONG magnet. Tapped it back in till it stopped moving, which left it sticking out about 1/32" I suppose that it's possible that the pin has been sticking out since assembly at the factory... ... Who knows #ad




I'll be preventing the dowel pin from falling out by using the washer method. Just a WAG but it may be possible that temperature plays a roll in how tight the pin fits in its holes considering the gearcase cover is aluminum and the block is steel each having different rates of thermal expansion.



I'll sure sleep better knowing all is well in Cummins land #ad
Oh, also the milage is 98,000.

 

['956Wheel]

Rebel, Did you replace the seal? Also was it an easy job getting to it? I was going to tear into mine this weekend but the Cummins dealer had to order the seal...comes in tomorrow. What about those bolts inside were they loose?

On temp. making a difference, on a 3/8" bore temp. would not come into play a bit.

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9535hundred

 

[R.ebel]

The bolt adjacent to the dowel pin was rather loose. It's an all day job(I like to take my time), including design and fabrication of the washer-tab. I did raplace the main seal, spent about an hour trying to get the new seal started in its hole, it kept trying to go in crooked. Removal of the fan was also somewhat of a pain in the neck. It's not that bad of a job assuming you have all the proper tools etc. It sure is nice to have peace of mind #ad

 

[Dieselnerd]

I did mine today too. I'm still not quite finished but I just have to put the belt back on and tighten the fan drive. I also did the tab method. What a big pain to get everything off to get inside. My pin was flush with the housing. I bought a bolt that was about 1/4" longer and used high strength Loctite on the bolt. I made the tab out of a 2" fender washer with a 1/4" hole, had to use a rat tail file to enlarge it slightly to fit the metric bolt. I used a hacksaw to cut the tab to size. Making and installing the tab was easy, the rest was a real bear. I used a new gasket and seal on the cover. I used Permatex spray on both sides of the gasket. The seal was a real pain like Rebel said. Kept going in crooked. I finally bolted the damper back over the seal tool that came with the seal and pressed it in that way. That method pushes it almost all the way in to where it should be.

 

[samb]

How hard was it to get the viberation damper off? Did you have to remove the shourd from around the fan?
I am wanteing to do mine sometime this week or before my next camp out.

For the ones that haven't done theres, the fan clutch nut is left handed and a 1 7/16 wrench will fit it. Glad you all caught yours in time. Thanks for the help.
Sam B.

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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #

 

[Dieselnerd]

samb, damper was easy to get off. You may need someone to hold a wrench on your alternator nut so the engine doesn't turn over while you loosen the bolts. I didn't take off the shroud although it would have given me more room. Hardest part was getting the crankshaft seal in straight. Not much room to swing your hammer.

 

[samb]

Thanks Dieselnerd
Sam B.

 

[mikepvg]

Rebel
Great idea on the washer-tab idea. #ad

I like JoeD's & CPFF jig idea also but can't decide what I'll do yet.
You didn't happen to take a pic of your finished tab in place?
How did you fabricate the tab so it will not rotate under certain conditions?
The latest info on this pin problem is phenominal.
This sure is a great group of intelligent diesel-heads.
#ad

Mike




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94 2500HD 5sp 4. 10LSD 4X4 RWAL w/GearVendor OD, K&N Oval w/ Pre-Filter, Straight Exhaust, Geno's Fumotovalve, AW-Direct Idle Controller, DiPricol Boost/Pyro/Fuel w/ Kevlar BSS line, Mag-Hytec Rear, 126K miles. Halon Protected, NRA Member. V1.

 

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by Dieselnerd:
samb, damper was easy to get off. You may need someone to hold a wrench on your alternator nut so the engine doesn't turn over while you loosen the bolts. I didn't take off the shroud although it would have given me more room. Hardest part was getting the crankshaft seal in straight. Not much room to swing your hammer.

Is the crank shaft seal a chevron type? or is it the type you have to roll in? Can't the seal be put into the cover first befor installing it on the engine? I plan to do this job myself soon. Need all the tips I can get. Thanks.
Bill C.

 

[Dieselnerd]

grtescapa, it's a normal seal but according to the service manual must be intstalled after. The cover is bolted on but not tightened down. You put the seal installer into the cover to center the hole in the cover over the crank and then tighten the bolts. The service manual is very specific about this. Then you slip a plastic sleeve into the seal to keep it from deforming as it slips over the crankshaft end. You tap the seal with the installer to get it started and then pull out the sleeve. There was another seal that came in the kit that slips over the crank to keep oil from hitting the inner lips of the new seal. There was no mention of how to install it and there was nothing like it when I took the original off. Just using logic, I pressed it on the crank end so that the new seal going on would position it right behind itself. It was a light friction fit and would stay anywhere you slid it. I hope that I got it in the right place, I assumed it was an improvement and maybe it's in the newer service manuals. Mine is a '96. If someone else knows how to install that seal, just a rubber ring with a metal center that fits the crank end perfectly, I'd be interested in knowing about it. I won't be tearing it apart again if it didn't belong there!

 

[Joe G.]

I put the seal in the cover first. The kit comes with a tool to set the depth. I used my vice and pressed it right in. The manual says use some blue LocTite so I did that. There is also a tool to put the seal on the crank. I put the tool in the seal in the cover before installing the cover. I made a couple of alignment pins out of some long old screws so that the cover was straight. It was easy to put on.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Dieselnerd]

Well, I got my belt on this morning to complete my dowel pin fix. Replaced it with a new one while I had it off and kept the old as a spare. The old belt is in really good shape after 61,000 miles. They are supposed to be good for 100K and this one looks like it would have made it easily. My big concern was would it leak oil after the startup, it didn't. We'll see how it is after a few days. All this trouble for that stupid dowel pin. I'm glad it's done but it's not the kind of job I want to do every day. Well worth it if it keeps the engine from self destructing.

 

[R.ebel]

Mikepvg
The washer-tab is very simple to make. It's 1 3/8" long in overall length, has a 3/8" radius at one end with the bolt hole located in in the center of that 3/8" radius. The other end is a 1/4" radius. Taper the rest of the part between the two ends and your done. The shape of the part keeps it from rotating because it locks into the contours of the gearcase. Sorry no picturs #ad
Joe G made the first one.

The drill and tap method is risky in my opinion, pressueizing the block is no guarantee that all the chips will stay out of the engine. Any that do get in the oil system will go through the oil pump (scoring it) befor getting filtered out in the filter. JMO

 

[samb]

I ordered a casket and seal about an hour ago. Will pick them up tomorrow. I to was plaining to install my seal in the housing before putting the cover back on. I like the idea of the long bolts for alignment.

Sam B.

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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #

 

['956Wheel]

The pain is pulling the fan off, if you get the 36mm fan wrench it will be a piece of cake. It is real easy to press the seal in before the cover is installed... . too much blood is donated to the radiator fins! #ad


My pin was not moved and flush with the inner surface of the case, tapped it with a drift, it was bottomed out in its bore.

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9535hundred

 

[Dieselnerd]

I agree, if the cover has to come off again I'll install the seal before I put it back on! Samb: I hope you really ordered a gasket and not a casket... . We don't want to lose a member!

[This message has been edited by Dieselnerd (edited 05-08-2001). ]

 

[LI Camper]

Anyone have part #s. I assume the seal was had at the Cummins dealer and not DC.

Thanks

 

[R.ebel]

Part numbers

The following Cummins part numbers are good for a 97 model truck cpl 2175,

Gearcase cover gasket 3918673

Seal kit for gearcase cover 3804899

 

[LI Camper]

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll head on down this morning.

 

[grtescpa]

Re: Part numbers

Originally posted by R. ebel

The following Cummins part numbers are good for a 97 model truck cpl 2175,

Gearcase cover gasket 3918673

Seal kit for gearcase cover 3804899

What does the CPL 2175 mean?