Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Killer Dowel Pin

[Jack fr MO]

I am preparing to pull the gear housing cover off to take care of the killer Dowel Pin problem. To remove the cover, the fan, and the vibrator damper must be removed. I have learned that the fan has a left hand thread, but what about the vibration damper bolts? When I checked my service manual it just says to remove these items but does not say anything about thread direction. The manual also says to use a barring tool to hold the engine from turning while torquing the damper bolts when reinstalling. Is there a way to hold the engine without the barring tool? What is the available wisdom that can be shared on accomplishing this task.

I know this subject has been talked about extensively, but I have read about 5 pages of posts and don't see what I need to know so hope you will all bear with me. Please share your wisdom with me. Thanks

 

[Reb.B]

, ... yes, the treads are opposite (left hand thread). I took a large wrench and ground it to the correct size for the fan nut. Need to put the wrench on the nut and put a large pry bar behind the pulley. Lock the pulley and hit the wrench til it loosens.

 

[Joe G.]

Your post is not clear if the KDP has failed and you want to fix the damage. Or if you want to apply a preventive fix.



If the KDP has failed here are the gory details about fixing it:



http://www.flex.net/~triplem/new/dowelpin.htm



If it has NOT failed, e-mail me for instructions to apply the tab fix.

 

[Jack fr MO]

thanks for your response, but no my KDP has not failed, just need some information before proceeding. I learned that the fan nut has left hand threads but wanted to know before applying pressure in the wrong direction to the vibration damper bolts, are they also left-hand threads? Also service manual states the need for the use of a barring tool, to hold the engine from turning while retorquing the damper bolts to 92 foot pounds of torque, without barring tool how do you hold engine from turning? Also do you need to use thread locker on cover and vibration damper bolts when reinstalling? I have the fix and new seal and casket just need this additional information before proceeding.

 

[Dieselnerd]

Jack, the damper bolts are normal right hand threads. (Counter Clockwise to remove) They do not need threadlocker on them when you install them again. Mine came off easily without a barring tool. No trouble installing up to torque again either. Motor doesn't turn over that easy.

 

[grtescpa]

Damper removal

I don't know what kind of compression the other guys have but my engine did turn when I tried to torque the damper bolts down ( might be wrong but 75 ft lBS if my memory is correct). I hated to do this but I used a large flat blade screw driver in the starter ring gear to hold the crank. For removal, the bolts should come loose with a couple of impacts with no problem. I used a 14 inch pipe wrench to hold the fan hub while I loosened the nut ( I didn't like doing that either). Good luck with the job.

 

[B9Mile]

There is some info about the dampener here:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=68509



It shouldn't be too much of a problem. The fan nut can be somewhat of a challenge.



Maybe you have also found some KDP fix info at Dave Fritz's site too. If not here, it is. Scroll down to the Repair Information section.



http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/maint/2nd_Gen-12v.htm



I didn't use thread locker on any of the bolts. I did use it to seal the outside of the camshaft seal housing/ front cover mating surfaces. The instructions that came with the seal suggested to use this.



I put some RTV on the threads of the timing case mounting bolts as some added insurance to prevent their vibrating loose. All of the ones I removed were still tight when I removed them. The engine had about 81k miles on it when I tabbed the pin.



I also used some RTV on the threads of the case cover fasteners. Since my engine didn't have a gasket behind the cover, I also gooped up the rest of the bolts' length to ensure a good seal.



I found a drill press and a block of wood work quite well for pressing the seal into the cover with the installation tool provided with the kit.



Other members have placed the seal in a freezer to help shrink its OD just a bit.

 

[Deezul1]

An air chisel with a BLUNT bit in it will knock the fan nut loose in about 3 seconds. Just hit it on the nut corner going the correct way. Try installing the seal in the cover from inside the cover instead of outside and it works easier. The drill press and block of wood help a lot.

 

[Jack fr MO]

Job completed

Thanks for all your input on the KDP fix, the job is completed. Didn’t get the input on using a drill press to put the seal in, which I found to be the most difficult part of the whole job, until after I had completed the job. To bad too, because I have a drill press but didn’t even think to use it just as a press. DUH!! Just another example of how important the available input and all the tricks and use of different tools used by you, that have already completed any job to guide those of us that have yet to do that same job. The use of a bar between the frame and the notches in the damper worked very well, but the shop manual did say, which I forgot in the heat of the battle to install the damper bolts but not to torque them until after the belt had been installed. Thanks again for the input, and also thanks to Robert Patton for the inspiration for such a newsletter and subsequent magazine, or should we describe it more closely as a living service manual.

BTW my dowel pin hadn't moved ANY, but now I don't have to worry about it. Thanks to all

 

[Jack fr MO]

Hope everyone that hasn't fixed KDP

Looks at these posts as I think these hints might help someone else.....