Kingpin rebuild

[CHolmsten]

Got a quick question for those more experience shadetree mechs out there. I am contemplating a Kingpin rebuild, because I am -1 degree in camber on my passenger side (driver side fine) also it has been a hard 125K on the truck I would just like the clean consience that goes along with having em done. I would doing it myself, so I kinda need to know what kinda tools I should have on hand. I see perhaps I need to make myself a 7/8th" allen key?



Also another issue, autozone doesen't know which rotor disc's I need, there are two different castings in the system for the same application. Any word on that? Thanks



The truck is a '93 W250 LE Club cab 4x4 5-Spd that just clocked 125K yesterday. larger injectors and the pump is kicked up a little. PO said it was about 70 hp worth, truck feels strong at least as strong as a 2001 2500 I had a couple of years back. Thanks

 

[Simplysmn]

not sure on king pins but rotors should be the 4500 lb axle not the lighter of the 2 if that will help I have the Napa number if you want it also .

 

[ENafziger]

I went through this a few months back when rebuilding the king pins on my rock-crawler dana 60 front. It seems that the general concensus is to leave the tapered pin in place, unless it is badly scuffed or scarred. The rest can be rebuilt and greased fairly easily, but if the tapered pin can be VERY hard to get out. If I remember right, the torque spec for putting in a new one is unusually high as well... like 200 - 350 ft-lbs?

Don't know if this helps or not, but you may want to check the condition of the tapered pins, and just rebuild everything else. --Eric

 

[DMosher]

Check this article on pirate 4x4.



http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Kingpin/index.html



Doug

 

[CHolmsten]

Is there a way to check the condition of the tapered pins without taking everything apart? Is it possible to have camber that is that far off like that and still have the tapered pin still be in good shape? To be honest I'm not sure how these ones are going to be, it took about 15 min with a wire brush to get the grease zergs clean enough to grease the pins. . . PO really beat on this truck. . .



Also the brakes yes I know that it should be the 4500lb axle, but they list two dif casting numbers for the disks. 1 is 33$ and the other is 51$, not sure which one I should go with, and I can't pull the tuck apart to see which casting number I have.

 

[Leper]

Take the tops off and see if the bushing is busted up. That is the main problem with them. While you are in there, if you have any "death wobble" issues, you can put a 1/16" fender washer on top to snug it up a bit.

 

[CHolmsten]

So all in all basically what you are saying is that chances are that I could get away with just changing out everything except the tapered pin itself and it would be a fairly easy job, that I could handle with shall we say basic tools and a 30 ton hydraulic press?

 

[Leper]

I'm saying to take the caps off the top and look inside. When I had a similar problem, I took the cap off and found the bushing in several pieces. I cleaned it all out, packed it with grease and put a used bushing back in. I ordered rebuild kits later.

If you are in a "must get back on the road today" situation, pop the cap and see if the bushing is bad. If it is, you can get by with just a bushing. I would recommend that you get the rebuild kits. The tapeded pin is probably ok if it hasnt been used too hard with a bad bushing. One of mine is a little scuffed, but I did not feel the damage was worth the effort it would be to replace it.

 

[Moab4x4]

I found a 7/8" allen wrench at my local carquest auto parts store, I don't imagine one should be too hard to find. Socket or regular allen wrench, I see using a big cheater bar. Mine came out with about a 4' pipe. Not too big a deal if you must replace the kingpin. I got the rebuild kit. Cheaper and stronger than balljoints.

Ken