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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Kodiak Side step installation

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Transmission question

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission # for Outerwears prefilter

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I am going to be installing some kodiak sidewinder steps on my dad's 96 tomorrow.

I was looking over the instuctions and have two questions before i start.



Drilling the pinch weld is easy enough to figure out but drilling the floor is questionable. It says drill through the floor and install the special threaded inserts. Which way do they go in there. It mentions the use of a special tool, is that needed? I'm assuming you don't drill through the carpet but anyways, anyone able to help me out?



I'm going to be using the factory door plunger switch since geno's recommened that to me, how does it come off?



thanks

Erik
 
Erik, I installed them on my '98 and expect it was the same. The floor is double walled with a space in between. You will only drill through the bottom sheet metal. The threaded insert can only go in one way. There is a special tool for installing but it can be done with out it. I drilled a piece of hex stock and used a bolt and washer to crush or crimp it into the hole. I used hex stock because I had it and it would allow a wrench to hold it from turning. You might be able to drill the treads out of a nut and use that. You need to keep the insert from turning in the hole in the floor. That was the hard part as I remember. Make sure you use the correct size drill bit. The door jamb switch just prys out of the hole. Be carefull though, I damaged one had to buy a replacement. Then you can unplug the wires and pull them in through the kick panel to splice into the wire. Hope this helps.

Kim
 
KWentling said:
Erik, I installed them on my '98 and expect it was the same. The floor is double walled with a space in between. You will only drill through the bottom sheet metal. The threaded insert can only go in one way. There is a special tool for installing but it can be done with out it. I drilled a piece of hex stock and used a bolt and washer to crush or crimp it into the hole. I used hex stock because I had it and it would allow a wrench to hold it from turning. You might be able to drill the treads out of a nut and use that. You need to keep the insert from turning in the hole in the floor. That was the hard part as I remember. Make sure you use the correct size drill bit. The door jamb switch just prys out of the hole. Be carefull though, I damaged one had to buy a replacement. Then you can unplug the wires and pull them in through the kick panel to splice into the wire. Hope this helps.

Kim



Thank you a bunch,



If you could clarify how you crushed the threaded insert? I'm assuming drill a hole so the threaded insert barely fits, tap it in with a hammer... But how to do you get it to crush? That is obviously where the tool or hex bar/nut comes in... If you could explain that part it would be a huge help for me. .



thanks!

Erik
 
Erik, The insert is essentially the same thing as a rivet. The proper tool for installing them is just like a big rivet gun, only most are hydraulic I believe. The thin section between the flanged head and the threaded section will crush down sandwhiching the sheetmetal. You will need some sort of sleeve that you can grip with a wrench or maybe vise grips (my drilled hex) that will contact the flange on the insert and allow a bolt to pass through it. Take a bolt of the proper size (1/4"?) that threads into the insert. It needs to be long enough to thread a nut on first, then a flat washer, and then slide you're sleeve on and have enough length to screw into the insert. Assemble all of this and then tap it into you're drilled hole. Then you will need to hold the sleeve and the head of the bolt from turning, while you screw the nut down. Make sure you keep the flange up tight against the floor. This will suck the threaded part of the insert toward the flange and "rivet" it in place. A little oil on the bolt threads will help. It takes quite a bit of force to start the crushing action, but then will continue to crush easily untill its tight.

Kim
 
I know this thread is old, but just for reference, I drilled the holes all the way through the floor, and put bolts through from the top via the cut in the carpet so they are not visible.
 
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