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KORE-Bilstein 7100 is rust normal?

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I had the (T. Rex at the time) Bilstein 7100 series shocks installed in July '04 and currently have about 10,000 miles on them. These miles include the Cassiar, Alcan, Top-of-the-World and Denali Highways both paved and dirt/gravel. I could not be more pleased with the performance of these shocks for my application. Most recently we made a round trip between Eastern Washington and Southern California around the Christmas/New Years time.



Since this trip I noticed that the Bilstein shock and reservoir bodies have begun to show signs of rusting, as you can see in the photos. It has been suggested that my only course of action is to remove the shocks, clean off the rust, and wax or powder coat them to prevent further rust.



Is this what I should expect from a quality product, an expensive one at that? Has anyone else heard of or taken these measures? Shouldn't a product that is marketed for RV applications survive the environment -- at the very least -- one year, preferably more?



Dave



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Dave...



Something is surely not right. That's just butt ugly... sorry.



Call Kore. If this turns out to be one of these "they all do it" things, it's surely a deal killer for me in considering this system.
 
Hate to say it, but I think that's a YES. I seem to recall that there was a note to put something on them to keep them from rusting. I've used some snake oil spray that seems to work okay (or silicone if the snake's hiding). Break out the chrome polish if you want the shine back.

Greg
 
So this would mean:

fuel filter 15,000 miles

oil change 5,000 to 7,500 miles

wax shocks every 10,000 miles :rolleyes:



I have enough stuff to worry about, I do not need shocks that need babysitting.
 
Yep, that's nasty. I guess I'd get some black spray paint. I'm no genius, but that looks like a classic case of style over substance to me, thats a bad thing on an HD 4x4 truck.
 
... Call Kore. If this turns out to be one of these "they all do it" things, it's surely a deal killer for me in considering this system...



E-mailed KORE -
"... Bilstein shocks are plated with a hard zinc-nickel, but like all metal things, they can oxidize. You can remove surface rust with a little steel wool and oil. Then hose them off and wax them. I know it sounds weird, but this is really the only way to prevent oxidation. Or you could have the shock bodies powder coated.



I wish there were a better way to address this, but even Bilstein won't warranty their shocks for surface corrosion. "



OK, now what do I use to clean off the rust and keep it from happening again?



What can I use since I don't have the necessary tools to remove/replace the shocks?



Cheers,

Dave
 
This is a fairly new issue, and it's good that you posted it DKlimas. I have a chase system on the way and live in an area where the roads have tons of salt on them and corrosion is a real issue. I spoke with Kent on the phone regarding this issue - and he also suggested that I should have them clear coated. For me, waxing or any sort of shock maintenance is an imposition and not something I am willing to live with.



I do agree that it's mildly annoying to have to deal with this issue in such an expensive system, and think Bilstein is pretty lame for not better preparing their shocks.



I called my local body shop and they will prep/clear coat the shocks for $25 a piece. $100 isn't bad to me if it offers a long amount of protection.



DSalavatore - how did the clear coat work when you did it to the shocks on your Jeeps?
 
If you plan on offroading at all with the clear coat your system will fade



Its Pretty common knowledge that painting, clearing, or powder coating a shock will trap heat, in the off road industry. trapped heat thins the oil thus leading to a useless faded shocks. This is why higher end Bilstiens, fox, sway away, and kings don't come painted. There plated.







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SLorenzen said:
If you plan on offroading at all with the clear coat your system will fade



Its Pretty common knowledge that painting, clearing, or powder coating a shock will trap heat in the off road industry. trapped head thins the oil thus leading to a useless faded shocks. This is why higher end Bilstiens, fox, sway away, and kings don't come painted. There plated.



I just got off the phone with Bilstein. They told me they don't think clear coat will pose any heat issue short of a full baja 1000 race. Just fyi.



They did say they worried the clear coat might flake/peel off over time, but they said if you took it to a professional shop that scotchbrited it, and clear coated it with quality materials, you 'might' be ok over the long run.



He stressed the 7100 is a racing shock, and 'most people' don't care if they look shiny. I guess he doesn't realize that so many of us are putting this 'racing shock' on our daily drivers.



He did have nothing but good things to say about the kore system - was very familiar with it.
 
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I agree, paint away if its a daily driver. Its a shame they don't plate thier middle of the road stuff.



fyi I have some $1000 pair of 9100 bilstien bypasses on my prerunner and they still spot rust. just spot rust though, not half as bad as the ones in the picture.



My wifes set of 6100 bilstiens on the front of her tacoma are rust free. then again there painted and its a daily driver...
 
... He stressed the 7100 is a racing shock, and 'most people' don't care if they look shiny. I guess he doesn't realize that so many of us are putting this 'racing shock' on our daily drivers...

I also don't care if they are shiny or not -- just not rusty... :(



... I agree, paint away if its a daily driver. Its a shame they don't plate thier middle of the road stuff...

They are plated -- Electroless Nickel -- according to their website -- seems to me that perhaps it is a poor grade or choice of plating.



Black would be a better color for heat radiation.



Can anyone suggest a good rust remover/conversion product?



Dave
 
Pool supply store. I think its muric acid. be carful when you use it... its acid



tried some rust remover from home depot, some from the auto store, and some from the welding shop. The depot stuff was brush on the auto store had an aerosol type stuff that turned the rust to paintable primer, the welding stuff removed oiles too. niether worked as good as the pool supply acid. Pool supply was the cheapest to boot. Its the old timers way of doing it...



Why aren't bilstien or Kore ponying up and warrantying them for you?
 
Slorenzen - the guy at Bilstein said you'd have to be running something like the baja 1000 before the extra heat that clearcoat or powdercoating would affect the shock. I definitely don't plan on any of that type of offroading, but will occasionally drive some bumpy dirt roads and some rutted campsites. I'm going to get them clear coated at my local body shop and hope for the best. We have tons of nasty road salt here. I wonder if I should wait another month before installing the setup to avoid a year's worth of potential rust. Think I'll be able to stand that? No way :-laf
 
I can't find the can but it is a heat resistant clear coat (not that high ) It works well eventually wears off in some spots over time ,I just use a scotch brite pad and fine steel wool W/wd40 on it and clean and re apply the clear. Wea re now using swayaway shock on one of the comp jeeps, these seem like the finish will hold up better, I hope.



Marc
 
Just fyi in relation to the heat/clear coat issue- I spoke with Greg from DRC about it yesterday and he feels it's not a worry. We all know he romps on his truck, and he told me that after blasting thru baja like a maniac that if he puts his hands on the shocks they are barely warm to the touch. While I know internal temps wil be more - that says to me that the heat probably isn't gonna be enough to be a worry. Maybe I'm totally wrong, but at this point I'm going to go for it and have the body shop clear coat them. I'm sure they've got better materials than I'd pick up at my local store. .
 
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