Kore Chase - how much should I pay to install?

[JonathanBurk]

Wondering what the typical install is I should be charged at my local 4x4 shop?



Not going to do it myself... everything I do alone turns into a disaster, and suspension isn't something I want to half finish, and my mechanic best friend is sick as a dog.



So... what should I expect to pay? Thank you.

 

[JCrockett]

I believe the going rate at DRC is $600 for the complete install. That is what I am going to charge my customers, plus you will have to get an alignment which is usually around $60, depending on the shop. It took me 8 hrs by myself to do my race system, but I had fender flares and running boards to deal with, along with a few interrupting phone calls and such and I consider myself a good mechanic.



If you can wait for your buddy to get beter and give you a hand I would. Plus you will get to know your truck a little better by doing it.



Just my . 02

 

[JCleary]

I paid $400, and that's the older system with the shock towers. Alignment was an additional $75.

 

[CATwrench]

It's a very easy install and Kore's directions are pretty much idiot proof. You WILL need at least one large, and one not so large jack though. It might take a whole day if you get drunk and take an afternoon nap, but their install time is in line w/what it would take to do a "no mistake, triple check everything" job w/one guy and a helper at a couple points.

 

[ohnoitsyu]

I believe the shocks need to be charged with nitrogen after installation, and I'd bet that not all shops can do that.



I have not installed this kit, but Dodge suspensions are really easy to work on. Weather permitting, I may change my front springs and shocks this weekend - despite having a broken arm. I'm installing these springs to check my clearances to my garage door, then I may also go with a Chase kit. And if I do that, I'll probably be doing that right after my dislocated lunate surgery in a couple weeks.



Jonathan, while I'd say the job is easy, and you should consider doing the basic install yourself, I understand your concerns. A good friend of mine is not very mechanically inclined - I can give him a wrench, and he's still challenged to remove a bolt. Wrenching isn't for everyone.

 

[Bob4x4]

It's a very easy install and Kore's directions are pretty much idiot proof. You WILL need at least one large, and one not so large jack though. It might take a whole day if you get drunk and take an afternoon nap, but their install time is in line w/what it would take to do a "no mistake, triple check everything" job w/one guy and a helper at a couple points.

Remember not every one is mechaniclly inclined... ... ... . what is easy to one may not be to another. I quit answring that question years ago"can I do it myself". I have had to go back and fix too many mistakes done by others :-laf



Bob

 

[JSellers]

Jonathan,



You CAN do this yourself. I did mine, by myself, in the driveway. And I don't consider myself an accomplished mechanic, although I've done a few 'medium-large' jobs on vehicles in my lifetime. (Everyone will have a different connotation about what size work that means... )



If you have typical tools, jackstands, and a floorjack that you're comfortable with (and that will handle the weight of the Cummins), this job isn't hard. The most difficult part for me was getting the lower control arms bolted back up. That's because I unbolted them at KORE's suggestion when the new springs wouldn't slip in *easily*. I think they might have gone in without loosening the control arms if I'd been a bit more ingenious. As it were, re-attachment of the anti-sway bar pulled the control arms right back into alignment by lowering the axle slightly.



If you do have a shop install, they will probably quote you numbers based on hourly rates - if they will quote a fixed-price at all. I couldn't pin down any of my local people, mostly because this type of suspension was "new" to typical 4WD shops at the time I purchased. The first question out of the telephone when I asked was "What kind of lift is it?" I had printed the installation instructions, and all the nice pictures from the KORE website (then T-Rex), but they still wouldn't give me a hard-dollar quote. This type of aftermarket componentry still isn't in the mainstream of 4WD custom work.



I'd say you'll have to take the estimates here on TDR as best-guess. Average them, and use that as your budget.



But, if you're like me - after getting the kit, you won't trust the install to a 4WD shop anyway. These parts are too nice to let some grease monkey bugger them up!!



Good luck with it,

John

 

[JonathanBurk]

Well they quoted me an hourly rate as you mentioned at about $350-$400 after looking at the instructions.



So let's say me and my buddy try and tackle it.



Jackstands = check

Normal tools = check

Floorjacks = Triple check



Don't I need a coil compressor though? That I don't have and am leary at using anyway.

 

[JSellers]

Don't I need a coil compressor though? That I don't have and am leary at using anyway.

Yep, I know the feeling - I used a spring compressor ONCE; and never want to use one again!



The OEM springs will come right out when you drop the axle and remove the shocks. The KORE springs need a bit more room to install, but they MAY go in with a bit of coercion. If not, remove the axle bolt for the control arm, and the KORE springs should go in without a problem. (I think it was the upper arm, but not sure about the memory now - call KORE, or DRC; they have both been very helpful with tips/hints for my questions. ) Getting the control arm aligned to reconnect was my problem - but, as I mentioned before, that was solved when I used the sway bar to pull the axle back into place.



Just make sure your stands and jack have sufficient capacity - the Ram/Cummins front end weighs a bunch!



Edit: I posted conflicting reports about disconnecting the control arms - like I said, I can't remember now. But it makes more sense for the UPPER arm, because that's the one the sway bar will pull back into correct alignment... CRS syndrome - geez... .



Hope this helps,

John

 

[ohnoitsyu]

Jonathan,

Right on! Not only will you save some bucks, but you'll have an awesome feeling of accomplishment.



I'd greatly appreciate if you can get before and after measurements of the truck's height in the front and rear at the center of the fenderwell to a point on the wheel, since you're probably changing tires at the same time, throwing off overall height numbers.



Oh, save the beer for after you're done. No, wait a minute, wait until after the test-drive.



Also, a torque wrench would be good to have.



Lee

 

[Big P]

I've done two trucks. My own, which has Kore, and a friends with 2. 5" Superlift coils. Both sets went in ok with out taking out the control arms or needing spring compressors. Also, I didn't need to remove any of the steering components, like tie rod ends or the drag link. They recommend it to get the bottom bolt re-installed for the shock on the passenger side while the alxe is drooped, but with the righ combonation of extensions and sockets you can get by with out removing them.



Like what was mentioned above, it is not that hard. I'm not a mechanic either, and I had no problems. Just take your time. For me, the biggest concern was working safely. I didn't feel comfortable supporting the truck with jack stands that have the small metal tops, so I cut up 6x6's about a foot long and stacked them 2 rows wide until they were high enough to support the truck. Once I knew the truck wouldn't come down on me, I felt good to go.

 

[Bob4x4]

Guys, If you think it through and take your time it is doable. Be careful and safe these springs have a lot of stored energy. do not use a spring compressor. Don't try to match somebody elses time. Enjoy the time working on your rig safely.



Bob

 

[testraub]

My offer still stands Bring you and parts and I'll have you up and running in a weekend Your welcfome to stay here at the house if it takes a overnight visit. You pay for your fuel here and back Nothing else. DRC will vouch for me



Tom Straub

 

[JonathanBurk]

Guys, you're really tempting me to go at it tomorrow.



Testraub, thank you for the offer that is so cool of you, and you're tempting me as well.



So what about all of the aligning to OE specs it talks about in the instructions? The way it talks you really need to be a pro to align everything properly.



And how do I tell which is the passenger coil & which is the driver coil?

 

[ohnoitsyu]

I'd bet that they are labeled somehow. Look for some markings. If you can't find any, the coil that is a little taller (or half a coil or so more) goes on the driver's side - I'm pretty sure, anyway. Look for the markings.



Could you scan and e-mail the directions? Even though it should be straight forward, I'm curious what they have to say.