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lamp out display problem

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I recently had an an aluminum t g mountaineer bed (T & G Mfg & Sales - Home) installed on my 05 3500 Std. Cab 4X4. The truck was built with a pickup box on it from the factory, but I wanted an aluminum bed that was lighter because I only use the truck to tow heavy gooseneck type trailers.

Anyway, after the install the shop that installed it told me that my "lamp out" light in the dash display would remain on. He said he had installed several flatbeds on Dually conversions and that they had all shown "lamp out" on their displays also and that he had never figured out a way to turn off the light. Has anybody else had this problem or heard of it? How do you get the display to go out? Any help and experience in this matter will be appreciated, as this is not a critical issue but it is annoying to have the light on. :confused:
 
If the lights are LED's they don't draw enough current or have any resistance for the computer to see the bulbs that's why you are having this issue.
 
yep exactly what he said, they need to have more draw I have heard of people hiding lights under the bed and putting them in the circuit to draw more power. thats how the computer looks for bad bulbs is by current draw, also you might want to talk to your dealer, its been a long time since I have been on the drb but they might have a setting in the computer that will adjust for the current draw.
 
Some guys add a resistor to the circuit if they are using LED's. I am not sure of the value of the resistor but most big upfitters know what one is needed. Also, the dealer may be able to tell you. Look at chryslers upfit manual as well.
 
I've got a similiar problem. I had an aluminum component body installed a couple of years back, which has regular incondecent lights on it, and when I put the transmission in reverse, when I have my parking lamps or headlights on, I hear a ding and my lamp out light comes on for just a moment, but goes out right away. I attributed it to the fact that the body has extra lights and when the two reverse lights come on it creats a quick spike in the power draw that the computer thinks is a burnt out bulb. But like I said, it only stays on for a second, then goes out so I've never addressed the problem.
 
My stop/tail/turn/clearance lights are all regular bulbs, NOT LED's. I thought somebody might have had this problem when changing beds and know the cure for it. Any ideas??:confused::confused:
 
My stop/tail/turn/clearance lights are all regular bulbs, NOT LED's. I thought somebody might have had this problem when changing beds and know the cure for it. Any ideas??:confused::confused:



If the lights are standard incandescent lamps and not LED's then i would be concerned that the upfitter may have misconnected something because the amperage draw would be the same if the same number of lamps are connected. if the number of lamps are lower than the factory pickup body had then that might be where the problem lies.



If they original body had 4 tail lamps lit when the lights were on and the new one has 2 that would also cause the problem. How many marker lights are down the side of the body? your dually had 4. You need to match the amperage draw from the pick up body to fix this issue either by matching the wattage of the lights or by adding resistors.
 
I've got a similiar problem. I had an aluminum component body installed a couple of years back, which has regular incondecent lights on it, and when I put the transmission in reverse, when I have my parking lamps or headlights on, I hear a ding and my lamp out light comes on for just a moment, but goes out right away. I attributed it to the fact that the body has extra lights and when the two reverse lights come on it creats a quick spike in the power draw that the computer thinks is a burnt out bulb. But like I said, it only stays on for a second, then goes out so I've never addressed the problem.



That's not a problem. That's the "audible alert for going into reverse with your parking or headlights on" feature. That's what that is...
 
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