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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Last front crank seal install question, I promise

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OK, I picked up the seal and this pic shows all the parts in the box. I understand the seal with the plastic sleeve in it. What about the black dust seal looking part? Where does it go? On after everything? Also, I assume the metal part is the part they refer to in using it to install the seal. Does this metal part stay in the cover then?
 
The metal part is a depth gage. Just a tool, put it in your tool box when you are done. The black plastic thingy was kind of a mystery to me at first because my '95 didn't have one. It is a dust shield and goes outside of the seal between it and the vibration damper.
 
My recommendations for doing the front seal would be to remove the front cover and take it to your local diesel shop and have them press it into the cover. When the seal is press on, it end up at a different depth sealing on a new area. I personally have never use the metal installer but some of the guys that have used it, cross their figures and hope for the best. While you're at it tab the KDP. It might take you a little bit longer but well worth it. The black piece is a dust seal and does extend the life of the seal by keeping dirt away from the seal, make sure you push it as close as possible to the seal. Good luck. Pablo
 
Am I correct in that the clear plastic sleeve inside the seal stays on as you install the cover back over the crank with the new seal in it? Then you pull the clear sleeve out?
 
Am I correct that the other use for the metal ring is to center the timing cover when installing it back on the engine? The cover bolts are too small to center the cover, which needs to be in the correct position for the seal to work well.



Mark



Edit: PWeber, you are correct.
 
The plastic sleeve stay in the seal to allow the seal to slide over the nose of the crank. The sleeve is so the inner seal lip does not roll during installation, once on, the sleeve is pull out. The seal and the crank need to be free of oil or grease.



The metal installer can be use to center the front housing but that means you have to install the seal on the cover while it's on the engine and as I said before I do not recommend that method. Cummins has Stop that practice and has send out bulletins to discontinue using the metal ring installer.



When I do the front covers I use a couple of guide studs and some Three Bond in a few spots between the gasket and the gear housing side in addition to the bead of Tree Bond between the front cover and gasket, this helps in taking some of the weight from the cover off the seal and allows the seal to center the housing. I then snug the bolts at 3 and 9 O-clock first and continue with the rest. If you follow these steps the cover will not move/shift while torquing the bolts.
 
I did the KDP tab and the seal today. That seal goes in tight. After a few trys I took a break and put the seal in the freezer and the cover in the oven. 2 hrs later it went in much easier. I then left the metal install part in it to align the cover and popped it off after I go a few bolts snug on the cover. I then put that dust cover on before the vibration dampner. (It did not look that effective as I could see around it the seal the seal as I did not want to push it in too far to be pressing on the outer seal material) Thanks for all the help. It appears all is well and I dont have a leak.
 
Need seal installation instructions!

I think I am going to have to pull the gear cover on Saturday to get my timing gear properly cleaned to keep it from slipping (see my thread on timing and the gear slipping elsewhere in this forum).



I would really appreciate some specific instructions/steps on how to install the seal, as I have never done this. I have tried to "read between the lines" in the posts above, and I've printed off a copy for reference, but step by step details, or a link to where I might get this, would be very helpful.



Also, is there any trick or do's/don't-do's regarding removing and reinstalling the damper? I've done the KDP jig thing so I've had it that far apart, which is pretty trivial.



Thanks in advance,

-Jay
 
I understand your concern as I had the same and when I got the seal and saw the contents it posed more questions. At this point I have read and posted everything I know. The best thing may be to call me and I will go over it with you now or right when you do it. My email is -- email address removed --.
 
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PWeber,



I ended up removing the gear cover yesterday and had to install the new seal. Your instructions and the conversation with you over the phone on Friday were right-on. Things went great. Proabably the hardest part is getting the seal in the cover, and getting that big gasket to stay in place while you get the cover on. Fortuantely, I have a press in the garage and with my friend's help the seal went into the case real smoothly. The seal went on over the crank just as you said and the little plastic sleeve did it's job. Really quite an easy task, especially with 2 sets of hands.



Thank you,

-Jay
 
frt seal

:D I have a question about the seal replacement. Do you lose any oil out of the engine or is it minimal?Just wondering, thanks. :D :D
 
Just a small ammount that has ran down from the gears and in in the timing gear case. About 10 drips maybe. The level of the oil in the pan is not near that high. Good question though, I wondered that myself until I looked at it with the front clip off.
 
Re: frt seal

Originally posted by KYOUNG

:D I have a question about the seal replacement. Do you lose any oil out of the engine or is it minimal?Just wondering, thanks. :D :D
When I tabbed mine, I parked it downhill at a pretty good angle figuring it would help drain the antifreeze which I was also doing. No oil problem even with the extreme angle.
 
I have a compilation of KDP Tab instructions with photos, tab dimensions, hints, seal and gasket part numbers, new bolt dimensions, and helps for every step of the process.



Joe G. got me started with these and then I've added a bunch more info that I gathered here and there as well.



If anyone else is interested, PM me with your e-mail address and I'll zip them to you.



And, as always, call me if you get in the middle of the job and have a quick question. I've tab'd 3 trucks and have have walked 2 others through it over the phone. I'd be glad to help walk you through it.



- Ben
 
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