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Leak at Fuel Shutoff Solenoid

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help with injector pump removal.

boy oh boy, it's nice to drive a CTD

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Providing you have the pump's rear mounting brace cut off it's not a problem to get to once you remove the throttle linkage bracket. A 15/16 will work just fine. It has an o ring on the bottom of the solenoid.



If you have yet to modify the rear brace, remove the throttle bracket and use a die grinder with a cut-off wheel. Be sure to get all the wires otta the way.



-S
 
Greenleaf -



Thanks! I haven't looked under the hood yet, but I'm assuming that 1)this 'modification' doesn't affect the integrity of the bracket and 2) this is the 'only' way to get it out?



Is a special O-ring required?



Thanks!
 
You might just as well go buy yourself the entire gasket kit. You'll have it on hand when the next o ring begins weeping.



Simply match up the old for the new. It's not big but it's a thick sucker. Often times the O ring will stick to the bottom of the bore it sets in. The plunger will too in this case. Grasp it (the plunger) with your fingers and pull it up/out.



Gasket Kit # DGK121 (Bosch) Expect to pay 15. 00 This is a complete re-seal pump kit.



The grinding off the top of the brace to near flush with the top of the pump head will not effect anything. Clean the area VERY WELL after grinding/cutting as your next step will be to open up the pump!!! Don't get ANY dirt in that hole when you remove the solenoid. You will loose very little fuel. Like three drops most likely unless you have the fuel filter off and allow air to enter elsewhere.



GL
 
Leak at Fuel Shtoff Solenoid - Now What?

Well - Did everything noted in the post and it all went well until I went to unscrew the shutoff solenoid and it wouldn't clear the fuel screw boss. It would unscrew up to that boss, and no further.



Any ideas? Like I said, everything went by the book up to that point.



Thanks in advance any and all!
 
On removing the fuel solonoid

Did you remove the blade (wire) connector? All my trucks have a two blade deallie bob that is in the way near the top of the threads. I have always taken that off first.



For middle of the night and other dire emergencies as to removing that bracket: you can use a twelve inch adjustable to bend it back and forth (it takes twenty five cycles, I counted them) and simple break it off above the upper bolts. I did this about three months back, it works. There is no purpose for the bracket on these trucks. Cummins makes a standard build in that regard and on some applications, it is used to attach throttle controls.



James
 
"..... All my trucks have a two blade deallie bob... . " >>>>HEY !!! I resemble that remark... . you toob. . ;):D



If you get an old combo wrench and grind the sides of the open end so that it slips in without binding up, you'll be able to get that little booger out. It IS a nasty one the first time though.



OH BTW... . just a thought... I ground my bracket off too... then recently I installed a valet switch... I have a nice clean install that has the solenoid mounted on the fender skirt. It works well... ... "then" I saw my brother's mount on his 92. It was WAY BETTER !!!

He made up a little attachment bracket that he bolted to the one I ground off... it "stood off " the solenoid just perfect and looks and works way better... just a thought for future reference...

Maybe I'll take some pics of mine and his and post them for you guys to look at.



pb...
 
Nope! Didn't take off the two bladed thingy!! Didn't know it came off!! I'll try that this afternoon. I didn't have any problem cutting off the bracket so I could get in with the 15/16" wrench.



And PB, I'm assuming you're referring to a separate solenoid to cut off power to the shutoff solenoid?



I'll post back later today and let you all know how it goes... . thanks again!!!



Mike
 
Mike, no not a solenoid to cut off power to the start/stop... it's a valet switch. It's function is to cut off boost to the AFC housing/diaphram. It lets you drive around with only basic pump fueling values... then when you activate it, it opens a path for boost pressure to enter the AFC housing and gives you the extra juice from your modified/stock cone.

Works good too...



pb...
 
Bingo!!



Thanks for all your input!! Took the electrical 'thingy' off, and the shutoff solenoid came right out. One wierd thing though, there was no o-ring on the solenoid or in the cavity when I removed the solenoid!!! Looked several times to make sure, and there was nothing I could see in the way of an old o-ring.



So I found an o-ring that fit out of the Bosch VE gasket kit, put it all together, and no more fuel leak at the shutoff solenoid!! TYJ!!



PB - You're talking about some stuff I'm not up to speed on yet!! Thought I was starting to get the hang of some of this stuff and you go and tell me about "driving around with only basic pump fueling values"!!!



Thanks again for the input guys!!



Mike
 
Basic Pump Fueling Values ?

Sounds like a device that might come in handy in the states that do a test every year to make sure you don't boost the performance ! R C
 
Actually, since I posted on this valet switch, I've been having some fun with it... . I fiddle with my fueling and what not then take 'er out and have at it... when I git up around 25psi boost I throw the switch... WAY COOL!!!!!.

Now all I gotta do is git some of them new nozzles in the old girl and get back to tinkering... . I REALLY need that new pump head kit... .



pb... . :D:D:D
 
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