2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Leaking Fuel line on top of gas tank

[rgreen]

Its the metal elbow coming off of the gas tank thats gotten roten and spits fuel out when engine is started. Its between the gas tank and the rubber fuel line.



What do I need to replace? Can I replace the metal elbow or will I have to replace an entire unit? I would appreaciate any part numbers if there are any available or any tricks on how to get at it easily.



Thanks.

 

[drrhoades]

I have the same problem on mine. A remanufactured fuel module is around 100 dollars. I just took some JB Weld and covered the metal line really good after I cleaned it off. Its been holding for two days now so hopefully it is fixed.



Doug

 

[rgreen]

I'm worried about creating a larger hole if I clean it up. \i've heard that someone has created a couple of replacement fitting I can use but cannot relocate the post. \if \i replace the whole tank, it would be nice to have the extra capacity, does transfer flow or another manufacter supply their own module with the new tank? or is the fuel module a seperate deal?

 

[JKinney]

I would quit using gas and go with diesel fuel

Sorry I could not resist... .

 

[TFrench]

Sending Unit elbow leaking

Rgreen,

Just finishing up installing the bed after fixing the same problem... . a rotten return line spurting diesel at the elbow. Several TDR members gave me some great advice regarding removing the bed... . again thanks to all! The first suggestion is to remove the bed... . this sounds harder than it is but does take time especially if you have a bad back and are doing it alone... . allow 3 hours by the time you remove the 8 bolts, electrical harness from the frame, disconnect a few connectors and the ground strap on the front passenger underside of the box. I used two 8' 4X4's to work the bed back and up over the tires... . removing the rear bumper, first is a must unless you have the luxury of lifting the bed straight up.



I found two archived TDR threads do-it-yourself' remedies... one dated 09/27/2004 and the other dated 02/??/2004. The first makes use of what I believe is a tank drain nipple and the other simply uses a 1" steel pipe nipple with two 1/8 NPT brass elbows and soldered copper tubing. I elected to leave the tank drain nipple alone, however, it would definitely be less crowded to use that hole for the return line. (make sure the return line feeds down the hole in the center of the sending unit vs. outside... . I can't remember why exactly but did see a thread containing that warning). I modified the latter approach by removing the rotten assembly, retaining and using the rubber grommet as a seal and replacing same with a 1" PVC schedule 80 threaded plug and a 1" threaded female coupler (inside the sender). I cut off the non-threaded portion of the threaded female coupler before installing. I then drilled two holes (approx 3/8") in the plug to accomodate two 1/8 brass nipples, one 4" long nipple for the return line and one 3" nipple for the supply line (to allow staggered connections for attaching the hoses and clamps on the inside of the sending unit). Only using brass, I then used a 18 NPT coupling to attach the 1/8NPT-1/4 tubing nipple to the return tubing inside the sending unit. I then attached the coupling to the 4" nipple and passed the nipple thru one hole in the plug. I then attached a 1/8 NPT female - 1/4NPT female elbow and finished it with a 1/4NPT - 1/4" tubing nipple. The supply line is much the same except I used a 1/8NPT - 5/16 tubing nipple to connect the supply line hose in the sending unit to the pipe. I then fed the supply pipe thru the second hole, added a 1/8 NPT - 1/4NPT reducer to which I fastened a 1/4NPT female - 1/4NPT female elbow and finished it off with a 1/4NPT-3/8 tubing nipple. I removed the flex tubings from the solid fuel lines at the frame and replaced them with heavy wall 1/4" rubber hose and 3/8" rubber hose for the return and supply lines respectively. I then clamped both lines with two stainless hose clamps at each end. I had to remove about 2" of plastic tubing from each of the return and supply lines inside the sending unit. The key here is to keep the supply and return lines fairly low as a bed support looms quite close above the fuel tank sending unit assembly... I didn't take a measurement and luckily I still had 1/8" vertical clearance after I epoxied the two brass nipples to the top of the PVC plug.



While I was at it, I carefully removed the pivot pin from the fuel sender assembly and slightly formed the wiper arms and wiper on the back side of the assembly to regain contact so that my sending unit now works. One suggestion is to remove some of the plastic from the arm and place a washer and grip clip to remove some of the play from the arm. I wasn't able to find a grip clip locally that was small enough to work so I compromised and formed the metal guard over the sender wiper arm inward to limit but not impede the outward movement of the wiper arm in hopes that this might allow the fuel sender to talk to the fuel gauge a little longer .



The whole arrangement looks a bit strange but I'm willing to live with it since it only cost me about $60 in fittings. I think the truck is running better too... I suspect the supply line may have been drawing air as well... the top of the assembly was almost rotted in two pieces... . PVC and brass won't rot!



Please send me a PM if you have questions... if you supply a phone number and time, I'll be glad to call you and give you a step by step while it is still fresh.



Tim

 

[rgreen]

wOW, great information. Really appreciate. I'm not sure yet whether with the fifth wheel hitch in the back which way I will go for access. Lowering the tank or lifting the bed. Will see after I run the fuel down. Probably over the weekend i weather cooperates. Just received 15cms of snow here in NB Canada over night but temps are expected to rise to 60f over the wekend so the sno will not last. Will be sure to keep your post nearby.



Thanks again Tim for all the great info.



Ron

 

[TFrench]

Ron,

Yes, with the fifth wheel hitch dropping the tank may be easier. I thought dropping the tank would be easier so I used my floor jack to support the tank as I initially started that way. I couldn't get the flexible fuel lines off of the tank fuel assembly so I raised it back up and went the "remove the bed" route. I was able to crawl up underneath and disconnect the electrical connection for the sender. I then removed the bed. Although I was not able to remove the supply and preserve them for reconnection, I ended up replacing the supply/return line assembly with the homegrown version I described so it didn't really matter in my case. The fuel line connectors should come loose by squeezing the plasitc tabs together (mine were green on one and gray on the other) together and then gently pulling and twisting on the lines... . mine came off eventually but with great force... they were corroded to the fuel tank assembly. So, only go thru the effort of preserving the existing flex lines if you think you will abe able to save & repair the original supply/return line assembly or replace it with a new one ($400+)... . otherwise, save yourself the time, effort and frustration and just cut them off and remove the tank. Replacing the flex fuel lines and connecting them back to the steel lines will be easier with the tank off the truck so that is one possible advantage.