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Leaking steel diesel fuel tank

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Has anyone successfully repaired a leaking metal diesel fuel tank with fiberglass AKA "kitty hair"? The tank has a seep under a tank strap. The area is the size of a 2 inch circle and it is pitted. Leaks a drop every 3 minutes.
 
In a word, no. It will never stick. Depending on the size, I have cleaned them with a hot pressure washer and if not to heavily pitted, ground the area and lay a layer of brass in the area with a torch. Probe the area with a pick or center punch and hammer. If the area is to thin braze or TIG a patch over the area.
 
Get two part putty epoxy that turns to iron and so Gorilla tape and put the epoxy on they put several layers of Gorilla tape on it. You will buy a lot of time with it.
 
Here are some options.

1. Clean both sides and dry after cutting the hole to access the area. Let stand for a day, and then filled to cover repair area with fuel and confirm no leaks. Installed cover plate on side of tank about 1' above leak. No leaks after 8 years.

2. Hoefler's option of repair. If you can get a welder to it, it's quicker.



The main thing to remember is DRAIN first before cutting or welding, clean and dry area well with either option.



Marine Tex, epoxy resin, adhesives, silicone grease, engine treatment, cleaner, repair, bond, fill, seal, fiberglass, aluminum, plastics, Starboard, wood

Seabuilt - Access Plate Systems
 
I would prefer to weld on a patch but if I can buy some time with a quick fix. J B Weld is a two part epoxy that I can get easy, but have not heard of Gorilla tape.
 
i have fixed a couple of cracked fuel tanks over the years with jb weld. you will get ever better long term results with such type sealers if you can vent the tank, and prevent it from pressureing up. a word of caution on tanks with pitting issues if you dont allready know. when tanks get to this point, they are not only weak in that region, but getting fine rust particles in your fuel can be a very real issue. these particle's can very easily get by your filters. also if this tank is setup to be mobile, i suggest getting it welded to properly seal it/ reinforce it. rust pitting generally means an area is weak, and a moving tank can ruture and leak with little to no warning. had a retired fuel tank that i converted to transport driveway sealer in, rupture on me this past summer. this was a 500 gallon skid tank, and the pitting was beneath the skid frame itself . [out of sight]
 
When my storage tank got low, I wire brushed it and then first used a rust converting paint as a primer and second finish coated with rustoleum oil base paint. The side anle iron on the lower edges of the tank, as well as between the steel cross straps and tank are, of course, where the rust will be worst as water gets trapped there. I used a 4x4 and hydraulic jack to lift one end of the tank 6" at a time to wire brush and prime/paint underneath as well.

Then, I got inspired and bought several rolls of 6" wide by 20' long garage door bottom edge sealer... the thick, soft grey poly foam stuff, about 6" wide, with a slight angle to the profile Cut to length, it runs along the angle iron and makes a GREAT waterproof cushion for the tank to rest on. I also used TWO pieces, run parallell lenghtwise, along each belly strap. It seems to have been working great to keep the water out of those tight spaces... I believe that it will prevent me from having to do the wire brush and paint work ever again.

Of course, only time will tell, but it has been looking/working well for 3 years now.
 
Put a small sand blaster to the pitted area. Exposed about 5 pin holes. A buddy is going to mig weld the holes closed and then apply a metal patch.
 
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