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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission LED Instrument Cluster Lamp Replacement

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I have been trying to locate leds for the cluster,headlight switch and A/C heater switch. I have tried searching TDR and came up with nothing. Tried the web, came up with lots of places and only found the A/C heater switch leds. Has anyone done this and know where to buy them?
 
fest3er, thanks for the reply and yes SUPERBRIGHTS does have the A/C heater swtch light but not the headlight switch light or the cluster lights
 
are you talking about the soldered in bulbs on the gauge display? you may need a old gauge cluster to sacrafice and un-soder a bulb, I read somewhere on the forums a guy did it for his 4x4 light.
 
budnate, The lamps I am talking about are the ones that come on with the running lights/parking lights. All of them are twist locks and very easy to replace. The stock dodge lamps are a one piece unit and I may have found some on super brights that I did not see before but they are two pieces, the twist lock and lamp are sold seperate. I will have to take the cluster out again to take some measurements. thanks for the input guys!!
 
aaaahh ok, I have a spare gauge cluster on the bone pile if you want me to measure anything and save some time and hassle yanking yours before you have a bulb. maybe post a link to what your thinking may work and we can compare parts.



B.
 
Aren't they 194 bulbs in the 2nd gens? I know that my 1st gen used 194 bulbs in the gauge cluster, but that certainly could've changed with the 2nd gens.
 
IIRC, 194 or 168 bulbs fit nicely in the twist-lock doohickies. It's been a standard dash bulb for many years now.

I dunno why, but I've only had one headlight, 2 clearance lights, a couple HMCSL blubs and I think one dash light burn out in the 12 years I've had my '98. Oh, yeah. The rear tag bulbs have burned out a time or two, and the fixtures have failed, to.
 
One good reason to replace incandescent gauge cluster bulbs is because they dim over time. If you pull an older, working 194 bulb and look closely at it you'll see it has a shiny, silvery film on the inside of the glass. I think that's filament residue that's burned off and accumulated on the glass.

If you replace all the 194 bulbs with LED replacements, you get brighter dash lighting and you'll most likely never have to replace them again.

Mike
 
Ok guys, Again thank all of you for the feedback. What I am wanting to do is change out all lamps in the dash to blue leds. And Midnite you are correct that the back light lamps are 194 but dodge had a better idea, glue the lamps into the twist locks so you cant just replace the lamps. And fest3er, thanks for the offer but it only takes me 10 min. to get the lamp out of the cluster and I really think that the twist locks on superbright will work and then if the do go out they will be easier. Thanks again guys, and if i can get the wife to show me how to let you all know how it comes out, I will.
 
... you are correct that the back light lamps are 194 but dodge had a better idea, glue the lamps into the twist locks so you cant just replace the lamps. ...

Glued/welded/unitized?!? Are you sure?!? Granted, they may be difficult to remove possibly due to age, corrosion or just plain friction (or tight fit), but I would be astounded if Dodge made some of them unreplaceable. They would be the first unreplaceable such lights I've ever heard of since first encountering this style base 30-odd years ago.

To be honest, I do recall being in your shoes one time when I had to replace a dash light either in my Dodge or my 88 F150. IIRC, my thoughts resembled, "What the eff? These look like the replaceable kind? They are supposed to be replaceable! Why won't this effing bulb come out? @#$ %^# !@#$ @#$% !@#$!!!" I put it back together for a day or three before trying again. Then, after gradually increasing the applied force to a level I thought should break the bulb, the base, or both, the base released the bulb and I was able to replace it.
 
fest3er, They will come apart, but, the replacement 194 lamp that we can buy have a looped wire thst is folded against the wedge of the lamp, the ones that are in the twist lock from the cluster have only one wire on each side and are soldered to the contact tabs that are pressed into the twist lock that makes the connection when twisted into place. They are not supposed to come apart.
 
Really! I stand corrected! One really can learn something new every day. I'll have to look at them next time I'm in a parts store.
 
fest3er, The one I pulled apart last night was a stock dodge twist lock, I have not seen what the aftermarket has except for the superbrights
 
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