Left headlight out, so where is the ground?

[moparguy]

Full disclosure, many years ago I bought (from a member I believe) a Sport headlight wiring kit/harness. Now the left headlight isn't working. Both bulbs out.

I noticed just before the left side totally died that if I hit a bump the light would go out then come back on.

I've found no loose connections and checked/replaced relays all to no good.

What I haven't found is the ground. Anyone know where the left headlight ground is on a '95?

Of course everything including ground may have changed with the Sport Headlight Conversion. I have zero recollection about that. At 70, that's happening more and more often.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Timd32]

From what I can see Left Front Fender.

There are a few Grounds related to that G100 location. Including a direct wire to the Battery.

 

[BigPapa]

I had a similar situation on my ‘95. I ended up replacing the socket that plugs onto the lamp.

 

[moparguy]

I do appreciate the help. Tim, with your prompts I seem to recall a ground bar (or similar) under the battery. Which if that is the case would likely require pulling the battery and tray.

Scott, if the battery and tray does come out and no luck with grounds, at least it'll be easy to replace the socket.

Thanks,
RonR

 

[moparguy]

New thought, as a test (and perhaps permanent bandaid) what's wrong with just tapping into the black wire out of the headlight and adding a new ground of same ga. wire?

RonR

 

[Timd32]

The battery tray I think requires the inner fender to come out, not horrible if you have the plastic rivet deal to put it back in.

I actually miss arrow that. I was looking at the RH headlight for G104, you need to chase the G100 which is still shown above. But it's noted as farther back a little.

The real service manual used to show the actual ground splice location.

But adding a wire would not be that bad, if the socket is good.

 

[moparguy]

First thing, wasn't the ground. I've had this truck since new and sad to say, a lot isn't original including the headlights and associated wiring. Back in the distance past I installed the HelicopterDan relay mod with relays to keep low and high beams on as well as make the headlight switch a trigger for the relays. Later I went to the Summit harness overlay. Yep, you'll need to be a old.....uh, long timer to know about these headlight upgrades.

Somewhere in that foggy past I installed a fuse in the left headlight hot wire. When I first started chasing this gremlin I couldn't find my multimeter (still haven't) but the 20 amp fuse looked good, just 20 years old. As a test though I swapped in the spare that was part of the fuse holder. Still no lights.

Fast forward to today, no new 20 amp fuses in the shop but I did have new 15 amps. So swap in a new fuse and I got LIGHT on the left side!

Gotta find that multimeter.

Not sure how many amps sport headlights pull with stock bulbs, but I do have spare fuses now just in case.

RonR

 

[Timd32]

From what I found online the stock 4-bulb set up was one 9007/HB5 and one 9004/HB1

From Google....
9004 bulbs have a wattage rating of 45 watts on low beam and a high beam wattage rating of 65 watts when the high beams are on.

9007 bulbs have a wattage rating of 55 watts of low beam power and 65 watts of high beam power.

So per side for 2 bulbs would be
LOW: bulb1+ bulb2= 100w = 8.33A
HIGH: bulb1 + bulb2= 130w = 10.83A

I don't know your set up and what elements are on and when?

So the original 50A fuse is running @ 76.6% (230w per side = 460w = 38.33A) if the original could at any time run the low and high at the same time. Say when you hold back on the High Beam deal.

Someone can correct that math if I'm way off or did something wrong. Or the 4 bulbs were never all on at one time.