Left rear locks up??

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I hope this is simple... .

A few weeks ago I noticed my left rear tire keeps locking up even when I slowly stop. These are not panic stops, just the sort of thing when you roll up to a traffic light.

Example on my gravel driveway just as I come to a stop the **** tire locks up and leaves a nice hole in the gravel.

I've done the backup and stop hard thing several times, thinking self adjusters but no change.

No shudder, no pulse, no pull driving on the highway.

Should I visit the evil empire for a warranty visit or does this sound like something simple?



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99' SB 4x4 : DDI's, HOT PE, SPA dual gauge, ESPAR, Line-X OTR, Ladder bars, AMSOIL, etc (GPS,Cell,CB,... . )

 

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I had the same problem on my 97 gaser. It was the right rear brake being way out of adjustment. If you think about it, you have rear wheel anti-lock, so if you are getting one wheel to lock, that means the other wheel is turning. I had to adjust the right rear using a brake adjuster tool. The self adjester never did anything on that side. Hope this helps.

 

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I had the same symptoms with my '98 4X2. The right side was locking up. Turned out to be a leaking axle seal. I replaced the seal myself, cleaned the lube off of the brakes and drum, and it's been fine since. If it is an axle seal, you'll probably be able to see some oil on the lip of the brake drum or even on the tire. Changing the seal isn't a major ordeal but it does require a 2-9/16" inch axle nut socket and a good prybar to remove the seal. A good torque wrench and an extra axle nut keeper are also on the list of items needed to do the job right. There's a revised part number for the seal itself so if it is the seal, be sure to get the new part number even if you have the evil empire do the job. The revised number for my '98 4X2 Dana 80 is, #05003464AA. Yours may be the same but I believe the AA is the indicator of the new number of the improved seal.

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98 2500 CC 4X2 12v 5spd 4. 10
97 Dodge Stratus 150HP
92 Harley Fatboy, Dynojet fuel management, Supertrapp 2-1

 

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What happened to you happened to me. Pull the wheel off and SLAM off your drum to inspect the seal for leakage. If it leaked, you'll see gear lube on the shoes and springs, etc. Gear lube will cause a lockup of one wheeel.

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Chris
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc. Test mule for Auto Wurks race program

 

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Check the 24v engine/drive forum,Rear brake adjustment, Steve posted a good way to brake the drums free from axles. I will try this the next time I remove drums. Scott

 

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Same issue. Had two seals replaced on same side so far.

 

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Something else to remember is to inspect the spindle where the seal rides-make sure there is no groove worn into it, this could cause multiple seal replacements. If there is oil on the shoes, you may just want to replace them. If the oil was allowed to soak into the shoes, just cleaning them wont do the trick. The heat generated from normal braking causes the oil to be drawn to the surface of the lining, hence the locking up of the wheel when braking.

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98. 5 24 valve clubcab custom dual exhaust w/5" tips, Autometer pyro & boost gauges, K&N filter, 3" lift kit, 33"x16. 50"x16. 5" Dick Cepek Fun Country Radials, Standard PE, PE-EZ, 275 injectors, no turbo silencer ring.