Let's see your night time profile

[Kalaehina]

I'm getting ready to add alot more LED lights to my truck, and just like the "Let's see your tire rim combination" thread, those of you who have added extra lights to your truck I'd like to see them, I need to get some ideas on how my truck may look. I have a Buckstop so there is alot of area to work with, but I don't want to over do it either.

 

[ENafziger]

Well, I'm right in the middle of lighting upgrades as well... and have been for the past year! Anyway, I'll share some of what I'm doing, although it's not all wired up yet.

I started by making a light bar to hold a pair of driving lights and a pair of fog lights, and to fill up the "gap" between the grill and bumper. It turned out really well, but the driving lights were JC Whitney specials, and don't do so well. I'm going to use them as backup lights, as I just purchased some PIAA's to fit in their place.

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I found some light bars from JC Whitney as well, and they seemed to be pretty good quality for the money. I used some amber strips for the front valence, and as running board lights.

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I used some additional short amber bars to add turn signal and running lights to the mirrors.

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In the bed, I again went with the light bars, but this time in clear. I ran a 48" strip across each of the side boxes and along the front box.

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Here's one of the front with the lights on. Of course, I don't run with all these on when driving on the road. I'm really likeing the look of things, but it started getting a little over-the-top... especially with all the different shades of yellow/orange. I painted everything except the factory headlights/taillights with NiteShades paint, to tint the lenses. It greatly improved things, and made the additional lights alot more subtle in the day without hindering the brightness too bad at night. Notice the mirror turn signals (which aren't on in this picture) do not stand out now after being tinted.

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In the rear, I added three sets of unique LED light bars. Each bar lights up with three dim lights for running lights, and then fully lights with 5 bright lights during braking. Additionally, when using the turn signals, the side lights blink brightly along with the middle half of the center light.

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When I find time, I'll be adding the backup lights, and installing some 55w fog lights under the running boards that shine out from underneath the truck. That, and maybe some green strip light accenting for the interior, but I don't know... sometimes I kinda get carried away :-laf!

Finally, to control everything, I found some small switches with a green LED indicators to mount on the knee bolster. Of course, the switches run through relays first to power the higher wattage lights.

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--Eric

 

[Bob4x4]

I have no practice at night time photography,this is the trailer out in the dez somewhere.

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Bob

 

[BJonesUSA]

enafziger, 2 questions... which short amber bars did you use for the mirrors, and how did you wire them up? Those look sharp!

 

[Kalaehina]

Ditto on the mirror amber lights, how did you wire them? Also how many relays did you run? Per amount of lights? Any pics of the mirror lights and the bed lights on?

 

[04 Diesel Power]

That looks nice, I want to add some lights on my truck also. Nice work.

 

[ENafziger]

Mirror light wiring...

Well I'll try to answer the best I know how...

Relays

Let's see... I've done so much wiring that I can't exactly remember how many relays, but the general rule of thumb is to use a single relay for a pair of lights. Relays come with different current (amp) ratings, so as long as you don't exceed this, you will be fine.

In my case, I'm running a pair of 100W bulbs for the driving lights. So, for the two lights, this is 200W of power. The relay is good for about 20 amps I think, and it is fused at 15 amps throught the painless wiring fuse block I purchased to add on all accessories.

Since Voltage = Power / Currant:

The necessary voltage to power 200W at 15 amps is 13. 33 volts. This is cutting things a little close, but the truck's voltage regulates at about 15. 1 - 15. 3 volts at driving speed (after warmed up and grid heaters quit cycling... and subwoofer at a normal level :-laf). I'm by no means an electrical engineer, but just watch the ratings on your components, and you'll be fine. For any added electrical circuit, it is a very good idea to install fuses; moreover, anything over a few amps, and running a relay is beneficial as well.


Mirror Lights

All of the strip lighting I ordered from JC Whitney.

Take a look here...
VERSA-LITE™ RIGID STRIP LIGHT - JCWhitney SUV Parts

The light bars on the mirror are 3" and 6" versions in amber with black anodized channel.

Concerning wiring, the best option I saw is similar to the following...
Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

Since the light bars use single filament bulbs, you have to use a method of wiring similar to that above to achieve two different functions (assuming you want them to function as marker lamps as well as turn signals). The only downside (if you think of it as such), is that the mirror turn signals will flash exactly opposite the sequence of the OEM turnsignals. However, that may be even more effective at indicating your intentions to turn...

The factory Service Manual shows how the mirror glass can be removed easily to allow access to wire the lights. Additionally, there is a round plug that can be removed on the underside of the mirror arm to help phish the wires. If you pull the rubber boot back that protects the connector between the door and the door jam, you find several terminals in this block are unused. You can route the wires through here at your own discretion. I chose to pass the wires directly through this connector. I suppose if you see the need to be able to disconnect this plug, you could insert the appropriate terminals into the connector.

Hmmm, as for pictures of the bed lights and mirror lights on, I'll have to report back, as mine are not quite wired up yet! :-laf Between stereo wiring, new fuel pump system, lighting, extra fuse blocks, fueling boxes, gps, soldering in fuse blocks, relays, installing 10 gauges, Ravelco security system, etc, I've spent close to 200 hours just wiring... and I'm not done yet!

Hope this helps some, but feel free to ask questions!

--Eric

Merry CHRISTmas!!!

 

[ENafziger]

After reading the questions that were asked, I maybe didn't answer something very clearly.

Since the current draw of the light bars is so small, there is no need to use relays. Also, I just tied into the lighting circuit for the running lights in the front headlight housing, as these are not controlled or monitored by the TIPM. Be careful which circuit you tie into, as altering the current draw from a TIPM controlled circuit may require a trip to the dealer to have it reset.

However, after the "eyebrow" strips in my '06 headlights blew with no lamp-out indicator, I figured it was safe to use this lighting circuit. There is enough tolerance built into the factory fuses for this circuit that there is no problem from that stand point either.

--Eric

 

[Kalaehina]

Thanks for the info! Gave me alot to think about.

 

[PJay9]

I am impressed! Will like to see all of it when done! Tell us more about the other items too when you get a chance. Meery Christmas as well! PJ

 

[Babyfat]

here's mine, more lights to come though





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[WTBurke]

VERY NICE!!! You guys ROCK !



William