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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Life is good

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) IAT sensor

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Turbo doesn't come on

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Killed the KDP the other day with the trusty tab. For the record, the pin was below the case surface (no movement).



Resealed the PS pump mounting, new revised Tstat (so far no temp oscilations), new front seal, tested injectors, balanced pump on the bench, and set timing to 17 deg (maybe too high).



Life is good:)
 
Originally posted by drees1

Killed the KDP the other day with the trusty tab. For the record, the pin was below the case surface (no movement).



Resealed the PS pump mounting, new revised Tstat (so far no temp oscilations), new front seal, tested injectors, balanced pump on the bench, and set timing to 17 deg (maybe too high).



Life is good:)



Dresss who did you get to do your timing?



I really want to get mine set to 16* but so far I can't find anyone who with 1) work on my Cummins, 2) Make me feel like they can do the timing the way I want.



Any chance that person can do mine maybe next week sometime?
 
Holeshot, Dream on about the pump bench, I had to send it to the local shop;) . It would be great to aquire one, but they are pricey even in auctions. My cost to run it and balance it adjust fuel settings, which I told them to leave alone, was $225. 00



I set my own timing. Since I had the pump out the shop pinned it by reversing the timing plug. I pinned the engine using the plug that is in the back of the timing case. Then I C-clamped my degree wheel to the balancer used a coathanger wire over a bolt and moved advanced the balancer 3. 5 degrees from 13. 5 to 17 timing (after pulling the timing plug in the cam gear of course) and locked it down. Then reversed the timing plug in the pump and done.



I have read by Joe D that the tang in the pump is easy to bend and does not offer much resistance if the shaft wants to turn when torquing the nut. But since I had it out I dried everything with brake wash and the shaft would not turn. I don't think I would do it again this way unless I pulled the cover and gear to clean it dry. I think it can bend the tang in the pump if it is assembled with oil on it. (Like a simple timng change where the gear is not removed)



The indicator to measure the plunger height is not too expensive and that would work good. I will probably buy one of those next time.



The best way to time it is to pressurize the pump and move the plunger to port closing until a specified amount of drips per minute are obtained then move your crank, and lock it down. It is most accurate. And if your careful and patient, you could check all 6 cylinders this way to balance it yourself, but that would be time consuming!!
 
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