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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission lift pump and injection pump ???'s

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) lift pump

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) noise between shifts

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okay, well i'm no genius when it comes to this engine or anything about it, i'm a little confused about what actually goes out first, the lp or ip (injection pump) I have 114k on it right now, pretty sure everything is original, had egde comp hooked up to the pump wire for about 3k now, (i don't drive that much) and had an ats trans installed for maybe 1k, and i'm wondering what would i probbaly have to fix to not have to worry about it, i see people talking about using the vp44 with around 700hp, I'm guessing thats not a stock one, i have searched on this, so don't flame me on that, just didn't find what i was looking for, i'm going to hook a fuel press guage up soon, I don't know where i'm going to put it, but i'll figure it out, and i'm going to add injectors reallyh soon, still decided on which ones also, i have a buddy that has dd's eth injectors 120hp i think with around the same milage as me, and no problems engine entirely i think, with a bell turbo,



so in conclusion i'm wanting someone to point me in the right direction of what to need to fix this before it happens, and if it does what to do, and I have no warranty it so, no dealers LOL



Aaron
 
A fuel pressure guage is a must. But as far as knowing when what will fail is tought. Some vp44's last forever modded or not some don't. I have a 01 that was on its secound vp. 3 days a go I put on its 3rd. Today it died. I may hold a record of shortest life vp. You just never know.
 
The pumps die from 0 psi right? so if i get a guage, and keep an eye on the pressure i "should" theorhetically be safe? unless its just time to go out right?
 
Help... ... ... . stuck in the mountains... ... ... .



I've developed a nasty problem of stalling when I come to a stop... If I keep the rpms up around 900-1000 while I come to a stop, it'll roll through OK. If I go to neutral, it idles with a slight lope, 50-150 rpm, then bump the throttle before going into drive..... It's also getting harder to start when it dies. My mechanic diagnosed it as a locked torque converter, but after replacment, we've still got the same problem... ... bummer... . new fuel filter and lift pump. .



They took it to a dealer to use his diagnostics, to no avail... . we've never had any codes show up... .



I've only had it for 7000 of the 117000 on, and until now it's been a great rig... .....





98. 5 24v auto 3/4ton 4x4 club cab
 
The pumps die from 0 psi right?

OaborbaG,

My understanding is that the Bosch vp44 depends on fuel pressure from the lift pump for lubrication-- and that if you run it at lower pressures than recommended you can eventually shorten the life of the vp44 (for 24v's, Cummins spec's the pre-vp44 fuel pressure to be between 10 and 15). When I bought my truck, I wanted to prevent unexpected breakdowns far from home so I put in a fuel pressure guage and replaced the stock lift pump with a FASS. There seem to be several good options posted on TDR for upgrading your stock lift pump, but I can only speak to the FASS: It costs a bit more than some alternatives, but I figure it may well pay for itself in saved injector pumps (and peace of mind). The FASS is rated to operate for about 700k, or so, and it keeps a steady 14 to 15 lbs going into the Bosch pump. I don't mean for this to sound like an advertisement, but I've had mine for about 3,000 miles now and couldn't be more pleased.
 
You can order them straight from Brad (the mfg. ) at Diesel Performance Products, for a little under $600. They were friendly, helpful and answered all my questions:



www.dieselpp.com



But because I live in the Denver area, I was told to buy it from ATS-- I guess they're a FASS dealer or something.
 
Hi all new to the sight,

since you are on fuel pressure's, I have a question. what are the norm's for a stock lift pump. The pump I have is running a steady 12 unless a hard accell will drop to 1 +- . But if you are gental with it and not let it rev over 2000 its stay's at 12. Just got bit with the injection/lift pump sickness.
 
thanks, i guess now i need to buy a guage and figure out where hte heck i'm going to put it lol since my pillar already has 3 guages on it
 
ooo i like it! i was thinking about putting it either in the little cubbie by the stereo where the heated seats would be, or in a guage pod, by the factory guages, i think autometer makes one, i'd have to find a 5th guage to put there any ideas? just so it'd be out of the way and look clean
 
Check out the RodPod at wildcatdiesel.com. I just installed three gauges and a switch in mine and am very pleased. The gauges are very easy to see and they don't block anything - and don't block your vision of the road. The installation was simple. Good luck! :)
 
I just had my first TP (transfer pump as described by the dealer) failure @ 66K. Are we using TP & LP interchangably or is there a differece?



Anyway, I do have a fuel pressure guage and it DID NOT warn me of an impending breakdown.



I was towing my 5th wheel trailer up a steep mountain running wide open in 3rd gear when the truck started missing then quit without warning in less than 5 seconds. There was no sholder at this point and I did not have time to get off the road before the truck quit anyway. There I was, half way up the mountain sitting in the middle of a two lane road. To say that my wife was slightly unsettled would be an understatement.



The fuel pressure had been fine just before this happened. After it quit, I had 0 fuel pressure. From my reading here, I thought that I would see lower than normal pressures and pressure fluctuations well in time to get the LP replaced well before somethign like this happened. Didn't happen:(



I changed the filter and proceded to my destination (after some fun getting the truck to start again) with lower than expected pressures.



The next day, without the trailer pressures were OK. I went to a construction site & left the truck idling for about 10 minutes. When I came back, I had 0 fuel pressure but the truck was running fine. I drove it around town for awhile trying to figure out what I should do, if anything. I was surprised that the truck ran so well without a load with no indicated pressure - this caused me to suspect the guage or sending unit.



Not wanting to break down on the road again on the way home, I decided to take the truck to a dealer & let them see if they could determine a cause. They ended up replacing the TP under warranty. They said that if I had continuted, I would have most likely burned up the IP - not a good thing. I also learned that many dealers do not stock IPs. Had I needed this where I was, I would have had to wait several business days for them to get it.



Now my fuel pressure is better than it has ever been but I have lost my faith in the ability of the guage to help me see a problem coming.



If I were you, I would install the guage anyway because without it, you have absolutely no way of knowing what is going on with your fuel system. Also, as has been said here before, NEVER NEVER leave home without a spare fresh fuel filter and a wrench to get the filter cap off. :mad:
 
Originally posted by bfriskey

Hi all new to the sight,

since you are on fuel pressure's, I have a question. what are the norm's for a stock lift pump. The pump I have is running a steady 12 unless a hard accell will drop to 1 +- . But if you are gental with it and not let it rev over 2000 its stay's at 12. Just got bit with the injection/lift pump sickness.



Hey Bfriskey - if you are seeing 1# when loaded, you sir have a problem! I have around 13# idling (brand new TP) and never less than 7-8 running wide open up a hill with a 31' 5th wheel in tow. My engine is stock but I think you should see more loaded pressure than 1#even if you have modified your engine.
 
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