2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission lift pump issues

[DThibault]

93000 miles on a 2001 and I am concerned about my lift pump. I see on this site that many have replaced their pump in half my mileage. I changed my fuel filter today and watched the canister fill with the stock pump, it took maybe 5 to 6 seconds, I screwed the cover down and fuel tried to squirt out before I got it tight. Bumped the starter a few times and the truck ran good. Everything seems OK. A friend got his replaced by the dealer with the new in tank pump. How are these things working out? My dealer wants close to $400 for one or will replace under warrantee as long as I don't go over the 100000mile deal or another 6 months before my 5 year anniversary. What is the consensus aside from the FASS RASP route. thanks.

 

[Mundgyver]

Heck, get the dealer to replace it under warranty and then you know your ok for a while longer. Gives you time to save your pennies for a FASS or something else.

 

[Fishin Guide]

I am not a fan of the in tank pump. Therefore, I would not the dealer touch it.



Get a fuel pressure gauge so that you know what is going on with your lift pump. Perhaps, it's just fine. I went through 5 lift pumps and I don't have as many miles as you do.



I would go with the RASP before the FASS as it's a mechanical pump. No more electrics for me.



And if you need a lift pump, go to a Cummins dealer. They can be found online as well and usually around $140-$145.



JMO



Dave

 

[LRotter]

The first question is: Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If you don't, I would highly recommend it. My '02 is closing in on 80,000 miles and just today I got the FASS installed. I noticed after I changed my fuel filter the last time that my fuel pressure gauge was reading lower than normal. I could pull it down to 2-3 psi going uphill at WOT, sometimes less. I feel pretty lucky that I had a fuel pressure gauge and that my lift pump lasted that long. I would say that you're most likely due for a new pump. However, I am a little leary of the new in-tank system as it is unproven and seems to give lower fuel pressure than I and most other on here care for. You can still get the stock fuel pumps. I don't know how handy you are but it doesn't seem difficult to install. If you're not very handy, you can try to find a diesel shop in your area to put a new stock lift pump on for you. It's up to you but I would definitely get a fuel pressure gauge. My uncle's '99(no gauges, over 100k) recently ate the VP-44. The fix was over $2000 for new VP-44 and lift pump. That's what you're looking at if you run without a fuel pressure gauge.



BTW, I really like my FASS. 15psi at all times. My only complaint is that I can hear the pump running when I'm at a stoplight. Other than that, I likey.

 

[todt061458]

I agree with all that was said above.

Is your truck throwing any codes? I would put that Fuel pressure guage on right away never bought a more worthwile guage. it's also cheap insurance lot's cheaper than a VP44.

A few thoughts on the in tank pump. In the winter it sits in thick fuel and works harder than it should. and if it fails how do you replace it on the side of the road?

 

[matrose]

I have a holley black mounted on the frame rail in front of the fuel tank. I run an -8an line to the factory filter and -8an from the filter to the vp44. I have 12 psi at idle and cannot pull it below 10 psi.

 

[Cattletrkr]

I know I'm in the wrong forum but...

I'd rather have the pump in the tank, in fact I do. Had it in for about a month. I'd much rather have the pump in the tank, especially in cold weather. Yeah, you're stuck if it locks up, but it should last longer in the tank. It certainly can't be any worse than the factory original for the 2nd gens.



I was stupid and spent way more than I should have on a fuel pressure gauge. Most of them are way cheaper than the one I got, I really should have shopped around a little more. Having said that, I'm glad I over spent vs. not spending anything at all. Cheap insurance.

 

[DieselRam30]

Highly recommend the RASP system. They are pricey, but worth it in my opinion. No electronics to worry about, and you have your stock lift pump as a backup in the highly unlikely event that the RASP would fail. They're tunable for different fuel pressures too.

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

The original stock type pumps are the cheapest to purchase if you get them from Cummins for around $150 but if you look at Fishing Guides case he bought 5 of them so that's about $750. That's over the cost of a FASS last I knew and almost the cost of a RASP. For the extra $150 I would definantely buy the RASP. Or you can go aftermarket cam and fuel pump lobe and put the 12 valve style lift pump on there, it's gonna cost well over a $1000 to go that route but it'll be done forever.

 

[Fishin Guide]

The original stock type pumps are the cheapest to purchase if you get them from Cummins for around $150 but if you look at Fishing Guides case he bought 5 of them so that's about $750. That's over the cost of a FASS last I knew and almost the cost of a RASP. For the extra $150 I would definantely buy the RASP. Or you can go aftermarket cam and fuel pump lobe and put the 12 valve style lift pump on there, it's gonna cost well over a $1000 to go that route but it'll be done forever.

And if I had to of bought those pumps I would be very sad. :{ I don't even have 90K on the clock yet.



Dave

 

[rweis]

I have a RASP to get away from the electrical malfunction (brushes, circuit boards, bad connectors, fuses, wiring) possibilities.



Recently the OEM lp was not running for a second on startup, electrical?. Turns out the Hobbs switch needs to be replaced (5yr warrantee form DTT). Truck starts fine without the OEM lp.



Point is another electrical malfunction.



RASP runs fine because it is mechanical. I did not want to go the cam route vs the RASP route because it was MUCH more involved and I can fine tune the RASP pressures.



Bob Weis

 

[Fishin Guide]

Hey Bob,



I am working on a bypass setup that will allow me to tune the pressure to whatever I want.



I cannot take credit for it, I got the idea from a NWBOMBer that had Piers build him one. This happened after a PDR cam and mech. 12 valve pump was installed. So, I got filled in by Piers and crew and it should be easy to finish up.



Sorry for straying off topic.



Dave

 

[TGibbs]

I had contemplated the lift pump issue for quite a while since my VP is going out and I want to do everything once and never worry about it again. I ordered the RASP from power by poole (nice guy too by the way!) not 30 minutes ago and also ordered the VP from Industrial Injection. Do it once and go mechanical with the RASP

 

[Allnew2Me]

Mine went out with 55K on it and I had just bought a new one on Ebay for $110, brand new sealed in the box. I replaced it in an hour and now have 15+ idle and 14 cruising and can't pull it below 12. I bought another one from the same guy, same price and keep it as a spare. I have a gauge and when it shows a loss in pressure in the future I'll just throw on another $110 pump and be good for another 50K. Let's see now, how many stock pumps can I buy for $1000. I know a lot of you will say that I will get stuck somewhere with a dead pump but nope, I have that covered too. I'm not finished yet but I am installing a stock pump at the tank with a check valve bypass so that it is plumbed in and off, invisible to the engine pump. If the stock LP goes out at some point, I have a bypass around that with a full flow ball valve, I just open the valve, plug in the fuse to power the rear pusher and I'm down the road. Two LPs, and fittings come to less than $250 and that gives me 15+ psi. I don't know much about the reliability of the RASP, I imagine it is a pretty good pump and it should be for that price. I know guys that have had the FASS fail. I like the easy availability of the stock pump. If I had unlimited funds I might consider another type, but the stock pump with a gauge and a spare is one that works for me.