Lift Pump Options

[mtnram]

Investigation options here for my second failed factory lift pump on my 'o4. I still have the on-filter housing style.

Does the cummins need to have a factory, fass or air-dog pump?

Is a BD pump a viable option?

Do they perform an important role in removing air from fuel and does the filter perform this function?

Is an in-line pump and separate in-line spin-on filter a viable option?

Can the stock filter be removed if I incorporate a separate filter (or two)with a 2 to 5 micron rating?

I found various pumps, filters and bases are available from local parts stores but have not sorted out pump capacity (rating) yet.

Trying to decide the best route to proceed as being down for days waiting for specialty parts is not good provided I can source parts locally.

 

[Got HO?]

Have had a BD pump on mine for about 180k miles now, no problems at all. I do replace my fuel filter every 10k miles.

 

[AH64ID]

Since you still have the OEM canister mounted pump your setup to upgrade pretty easily.

If it were my truck I would get a Raptor 100. Then put a Baldwin FB1311 filter head with a Baldwin BF1212 between the tank and the Raptor with a splice in the OEM hardline. Keep the OEM canister filter inline (with a Baldwin PF7977), and then add a setup like a GDP MK2+ with a Donaldson P551313 between the OEM filter and CP3, and I would recommend a fuel pressure sender between the MK2+ and CP3.

At a minimum do a BF1212 before the Raptor and the PF7977 in the OEM canister.

There is no need or reason to bypass the OEM canister, nor do I really see the need for air removal. The above setup will provide you with the best rated filters and a great pump that has an adjustable output, which should be set at 13-15 idle.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Frankly I wish I had just kept the stock LP and bought a spare to carry rather than the FASS I installed. With my mods I don't really need or want extra flow or noise.

 

[rscurtis]

Pull your FASS apart and replace the relief valve spring with one about half the strength and the noise will be gone.

 

[wcjp]

My Air dog is extremely quiet. Not sure if it's better than the competition. I'm also setup to revert to stock within 10min in case of emergency. I'm going thru the stock filter to maintain fuel pre heater.

 

[JJPage]

Since you still have the OEM canister mounted pump your setup to upgrade pretty easily.



If it were my truck I would get a Raptor 100. Then put a Baldwin FB1311 filter head with a Baldwin BF1212 between the tank and the Raptor with a splice in the OEM hardline. Keep the OEM canister filter inline (with a Baldwin PF7977), and then add a setup like a GDP MK2+ with a Donaldson P551313 between the OEM filter and CP3, and I would recommend a fuel pressure sender between the MK2+ and CP3.



At a minimum do a BF1212 before the Raptor and the PF7977 in the OEM canister.



There is no need or reason to bypass the OEM canister, nor do I really see the need for air removal. The above setup will provide you with the best rated filters and a great pump that has an adjustable output, which should be set at 13-15 idle.

I agree with this 100%. Call Richard at Glacier Diesel Power 509-993-4923, he will have everything you need, and will support your install by phone if needed. Jess

 

[rbattelle]

Another option would be to run a Holley Blue pump, which has the correct pressure and flow for a stock engine, is readily available in large quantites across the country, is rebuildable, and cheap.



Plumb it to the stock filter canister using an adaptor (available from Glacier, here).



Then, leaving the stock filter canister, plumb through a second filter head of your choice (I use Stanadyne, but as you've seen there are other options).



However, I've found that assembling your own system rather than buying a prepackaged setup (from whomever) can be considerably more expensive if you're the type to insist on "only the best" components.



-Ryan

 

[AH64ID]

Another option would be to run a Holley Blue pump, which has the correct pressure and flow for a stock engine, is readily available in large quantites across the country, is rebuildable, and cheap.



-Ryan

I wonder why these aren't used more. They are cheap, but for a stock, or even a bit over stock, hp rig it's plenty of fuel. They won't work on a VP truck, but are ideal for a CP3.

 

[BIGNASTY]

I wonder why these aren't used more. They are cheap, but for a stock, or even a bit over stock, hp rig it's plenty of fuel. They won't work on a VP truck, but are ideal for a CP3.

I didnt think they were diesel compatible?

 

[rbattelle]

I've been running a Holley Blue since 2005. They are diesel (and biodiesel, up to at least 10%) compatible.

It's noisier than stock, and if you listen carefully you can hear it run at idle, although mine is not on an isolation mount or otherwise damped in any way.

I also like the looks of this pump, and may try it when my Blue gives out.

Before I went to the Holley Blue I ran an Aeromotive pump. Its motor seal went out after a few thousand miles. Aeromotive and I disagreed on the cause - I said it was incompatible with the fuel I was using (5% biodiesel), they said it wasn't incompatible. They couldn't offer an explanation for the seal problem.

-Ryan

 

[Turbo_Bob]

Investigation options here for my second failed factory lift pump on my 'o4. I still have the on-filter housing style.

How about this replacement lift pump for the 03-04 diesels



autocarepro: news



I bought my spare from Genos, have it in truck just in case the original fails. I have 192,000 miles on my lift pump, truck.



I think as long as your not trying to make more H/P - T/Q than what the stock numbers were (305-555) you should be fine with the stock lift pump.



I do add 8 oz of 2-stroke oil to the diesel fuel when filling up, for lubricity, since the ULSD came into effect.

 

[Turbo_Bob]

The new direct replacement Carter P76110 fuel pump features a brushless design that is not susceptible to vibration and wear. The pump can be mounted in the same location as the original equipment pump.

“By relying on the Carter P76110 pump, you can complete the repair in a matter of minutes,” said Jeff Richardson, Carter product manager. “This is a great alternative for repair professionals and do-it-yourselferswho are looking for a fast, easy, long-lasting solution. ”

 

[mtnram]

The carter p76110 is the pump I ordered online on sunday and picked up monday afternoon at our napa store. I noticed a slightly higher pitch whine when I keyed the ignition, been working fine for a couple weeks.

It was the best option for me to quickly get the truck runing and will sort out and deal with a serious resolution in the future.

The pump I bought from geno's had few miles/hours use in view that I pulled a running stock pump with over 80k miles. The replacment did not last. I carefully cut the plastic housing open with a dremel and found the magnet in the motor was fractured and pieces bound the armature. I will never know if it was defective from day one, dropped during manufacturing or shipping, or simply prematurely failed.

Oh well, it's the first time in many years I had to call AAA, sad to see the truck on a roll-back over a cheap part.

 

[bighammer]

My 03 died in town today on our main street. I parked it at the curb as I coasted to a stop and went to get my wife's car just 3 or 4 blocks away. I ran home and got my Carter pump and instructions that I just took out of the truck a couple days before. (vacuuming broken glass from broken rear window)

I got back to the truck just as it started to rain. I got it changed out and it started right up after bumping the starter a few times. I was soaked and stinking of fuel, but happy that I didn't have a towing and/or repair bill. (been a crappy week already )

 

[steved]

I've been running a Holley Blue since 2005. They are diesel (and biodiesel, up to at least 10%) compatible.



It's noisier than stock, and if you listen carefully you can hear it run at idle, although mine is not on an isolation mount or otherwise damped in any way.



I also like the looks of this pump, and may try it when my Blue gives out.





-Ryan

I ran the Summit Racing clone of the Holley blue as a transfer pump for about five years... the only thing is they are not completely sealed and will eventually corrode internally (and this one was mounted inside a toolbox, inside the bed of the truck). I've seen this with both my Summit Racing clone and an actually Holley. However, they are a really simple pump, and can be pulled apart, cleaned, lubricated, and reinstalled. What I had happen is the brushes hang up, then the pump won't run. FWIW, they have an internal screen that needs cleaned every so often if you're not running a prefilter...



I currently have a Carter (similar to the 2nd gen pump, but a universal design) installed and it has been flawless for the past year... doesn't flow as much as the Summit Racing, but then I don't need it other than to prime the siphon. Its also completely sealed, and fuel lubricated.



If I was to do it again, I'd probably buy a Holley/Carter, frame mount it, and keep a spare under the seat... the FASS I had failed with only 180k (so they are far from the 400k to 600k they claim), so a lot of $$ for a glorified paper weight. These third gen trucks would be fairly easy to plumb up... . you can buy the quick connect fitting for the top of the tank and run your own hose from there.



These 3rds gen trucks are a lot more forgiving with respect to lift pump failures... losing one doesn't automatically sentence the injection pump to an early demise.

 

[bighammer]

My only snag was the quick connect fitting on the fuel line. It came apart just fine, but wet with rain and fuel I could not press the new fitting onto the steel line for anything. I got it as far as I could but it still wouldn't click into place and lock. I was soaked and cold so I wrapped it with tape and the truck runs fine. I'd like to snap it together or get rid of the quick connect fittings. Suggestions on how to press them together? Is there a special tool?

 

[rbattelle]

... the only thing is they are not completely sealed and will eventually corrode internally

I recognized this when I installed mine and ran beads of silicone along the seams.

It's corroded on the outside now, but keeps humming along. I've not had it apart since 2005, and have provided it no maintenance (except that I changed its mounting fixture about a year ago to make it easier to mount/dismouont alongside the road). I do have a replacement that I keep in a toolbox on long trips.

I believe the vane housing is aluminum, but the motor and the bottom plate for the vane housing are steel.

-Ryan

 

[PDM]

My only snag was the quick connect fitting on the fuel line. It came apart just fine, but wet with rain and fuel I could not press the new fitting onto the steel line for anything. I got it as far as I could but it still wouldn't click into place and lock. I was soaked and cold so I wrapped it with tape and the truck runs fine. I'd like to snap it together or get rid of the quick connect fittings. Suggestions on how to press them together? Is there a special tool?

I just did this Carter P76110 install, and the hardest part for me was dealing with the quick-connect fitting. The supplied fitting was not exactly the same as the Dodge, and I couldn't get the blue plastic retainer to latch into the Carter fitting. After fussing with it for a while I came to suspect the Carter fitting was made with an integral retainer for the bare fuel line, which is why it wouldn't go together with a "second" retainer. Well, right or wrong about this fitting, my truck runs without leaking.

I hope this helps folks who use the Carter pump in the future, and I hope I don't steer anyone in the wrong direction!