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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Lift Pump Repair

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission battery relocation

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Alan Reagan

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I'm looking for some input in exchange for some good information.



First, the information.



I stopped by my local Turbo and Diesel Electrical Repair place today. It's where I get most of my work done and I buy parts there as well. The owner is one of the most knowledgeable guys I know when it comes to pumps, turbos and diesel engines in general. He owns a 98 24V 3500 and has always given me good advice. That's my disclaimer.



Today's discussion with him centered around the VP44 and lift pumps. I told him I had changed mine last year and he asked if I kept the old one. I had in case of emergency. He told me to take off the top cover, held on by the three studs. He warned me the studs would be loose. They were. He said that's the major problem with these pumps and why the pressure at WOT goes low on them after a few weeks/months. He has seen "failures" (low pressure) two weeks after installing a new lift pump.



One of his technicians tried something on a low pressure pump that brought the pump back to life with the correct/normal operating pressure. I was doubtful, but I did it. What I want from you guys is to try this on pumps you have removed and see how they work.



Here it is:



1. Remove the cover by backing out the three studs. It took a flat scraper to get mine to break loose.



2. The gasket along with the steel plate that holds the vane pump section in will come out all stuck together. Keep track of which side of the steel plate is to the vanes for reassembly. If you lose it, the side against the vains will have a circular mark about 3/16 in diameter where the vane holder has been running.



3. Remove the filter screen. If it's dirty, clean it. Try not to bend it from it's circular set or it will be hard to hold in on reassembly.



4. Remove the vanes and holder. Be carful not to drop or lose the vanes. You don't want them scarred or scratched on the rounded edges. If the rounded edge has become flat, flip the vane on reassembly to get a round edge against the inside of the run.



5. With a pair of needle nose pliers, gentle turn the shaft of the pump. It's the flat thing you see after removing the vane holder. It should turn freely.



6. Reinstall the vane holder and then slide the vanes into the holder.

7. Install the flat circular steal piece over the vanes and reinstall the filter screen making sure it's all the way in.



6. Flip the gasket over. Reinstall the gasket flipped over from the way it came out. Its easy to see how it goes. There is a curved indention in the gasket from pressed into the pump body. That will go up or against the cover plate on installation.



7. Reinstall the studs. Don't overtighten but they need to be snug. Mine were loose when I removed them.



Total time was 15 minutes and mine was finished.



Now the request:

What I want to know from you guys is whether this works or not. My friend at the turbo shop says it has worked on everyone they've done this way. I believe him. What I want to do is whether or not this is a good "do it yourself" project or if it takes a special talent to make it work. I don't have time to try it on my truck or I'd give you the results today. It's definitely something that may get you home in an emergency.
 
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*IF* your LP failure was due *only* to a clogged internal filter in the LP, what you have described will restore it to service - but if the problem is electrical, or seized motor, no dice!



AND, loose securing bolts on the pump side severe enough to cause poor pump operation will usually ALSO be quite evident by the fuel leaking out of it... ;) :D
 
Gary, of course you are right on the electrical part. This is not meant to fix that. According to him, it is more of a loose bolt problem than anything. From what it looks like, getting the plate off (if you try it you'll see what I mean), it doesn't leak. I think the vanes are able to back off the plate causing the pressure loss. In mine, I know there had to be some play because the filter screen was not seated properly during original assemble and was between the gasket and the pump body. It still didn't leak, but had play the thickness of the screen for the vanes to bypass fuel and reduce pressure. I'm not swearing this is the gospel. I just want to know whether or not it's a fix for some of the pressure problems. When you open then thing up, there's not many pieces in there. The only way it can lose pressure (or not build pressure) is through end play of the vanes.
 
Well it's certainly worth a try - nothing to lose! ;)



On my Carter used for fuel transfer from my in-bed tank, if the bolts are very loose at all, it WILL leak - and that is with unrestricted open flow...



But I'm not one to throw ANYTHING away without tearing it apart to see what makes it tick... ;) :D
 
add to the end of the above "is through end play of the vanes. " OR the spring loaded relief valve not functioning correctly... .
 
Alan, Just a note, changed out my 'low pressure' pump yesterday, and sure enough one of the studs was lose... In fact had to remove the plate to get the darn thing off!! But followed your directions and now believe I have a good spare... thanks for the info... ... ... ... ... ... ... R, J. B. ;)
 
When my pump failed I took it apart to check for cause. The slot in the rotor for the motor to drive it is a plastic insert. It was broken into three pieces. Think that the pieces were jamming in the rotor allowing it to turn some causing low pressure. It finally just quit turning the rotor.
 
Lift pump fix

Hey Alan I also had a lift pump that was dieing pressure wise and I removed it and performed the "AR" repair. I now have my pressure back. I also installed a cater 4601Hp (15psi) pusher pump sucking through a Racor filter. I found that my pressure was a little on the High side 25psi +. I was concerned that this pressure was too much so I followed Gary- KJ6Q's method of reducing the pusher pump pressure and bypass method.





Gary that seems to work really well. I did not do your "Check valve" system just routed a line from the output of the pusher to the inlet of the Racor. I use 1/4 hose to bypass the fuel.



My pressure is now about 18+ psi at an Idle and 12-14 WOT.





Thanks all for the EXCELLENT ideas.
 
Thanks - being able to help others is my payback for all the help *I* have received here!



I had thought about doing the bypass the easier way you used, but was concerned it would bypass TOO much in normal operation, and not enough if the pusher quit - your "normal" pressures seem fine, have you tried disabling the pusher to see what PSI you get? I still have the original, unmodified pusher for a spare - and if it looks like the simpler 1/4 line will deliver enough fuel around a disabled pusher, I might just do it that way...



Lotsa times, simpler is BETTER!;) :D
 
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I've seen the same success and now have a good spare that I probably would have tossed at some point. The "AR" repair. :D



Hey Gary, with your pusher and my repair, maybe we can save people some money. Or at least get them home.
 
Lift pump

Gary, I have not tried measuring the pressure driving down the road with the pusher off, but I do know that my idle pressure is 13-15 psi with the repaired pump and pusher off.







I rigged up the pusher with the bypass and a bucket of diesel to test what pressures would be obtained with different bypass size hoses. With 1/4 pushed onto barb fittings that have 1/8 pipe threads I got about 8 psi. I figured that was about right and I am using this set up.





I was also thinking that I should install a fuel cooler and route the bypass line back to the fuel tank, that would help keep the fuel temps down.





Thanks again
 
Radar Doctor, The pump is just below and to the right of the fuel filter cannister. Follow the fuel line from the right side of the fuel filter and it will take you to the output of the pump.
 
I'm on my second lift pump. I kept the original as an emergency backup. I will try this procedure on the old pump and see what happens. My second pump is giving indication of slowing down. That gives me a good excuse to try this fix. I'll keep you posted.
 
"I was also thinking that I should install a fuel cooler and route the bypass line back to the fuel tank, that would help keep the fuel temps down. "



UNLESS you made the return to the BOTTOM of the tank somehow, you would then lose the ability for fuel to reach the stock pump if the pusher fails to operate - which was one of MY primary reasons for the bypass to begin with... ;)
 
Allan, can you back pressure with an air nozzle at low pressure to clean the screen without taking it out and ruining the fit? I've been following this thread and am about ready to take out my lift pump. Its still getting 12-13 lbs at idle, but it used to run constantly at 12 cruising, dropping to 10 at WOT. Not I see 11 crusing every once in awhile. Do you guys know if the outside temp can effect the pressure, as I'm measuring post filter? It got hot out here the other day (80s) an pressure stayed at 12??? I still cannot get it below 10, but figure it best to change in driveway rather than in the middle of nowhere.
 
I don't think you can clean by using back pressure with air, FMJ. You'll see what I mean when you take it apart. You won't have any problem with the screens. They just sit in the slot.



I would think pressure would be higher when it's cold because the fuel is more dense with the pump trying to move it at the same speed as warm fuel. I really don't know.



John Berger, I hope it works for you.
 
fmj, I don't think those screens get dirty. I had my original lift pump off twice and the screen looked as clean as it would when brand new.



Alan, sorry we couldn't hook up this past weekend. We had to get on the road by 9 a. m.
 
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