Lift pump replacement. Best way in? Fender, brake master or starter?

[rebar]

After I tabbed my kdp, I started collecting parts for my mechanical low pressure fuel gauge. Maybe I should have made the low pressure fuel gauge a priority, because I only have 13 psi at idle and 20psi at 2000 rpm. The gauge hasn't been installed in the cab yet so I'm not sure how low the pressure gets on a long pull. I pinched off the return and didn't see much pressure increase so it looks like I need a new lift pump. But I'm still tempted to stretch the overflow valve spring or buy a adjustable one from TST Products.

Anyway, what's the best way to gain access to the lift pump? I have 4x4 so coming up from underneath would require drive shaft and starter removal? I have not serviced the front drive shaft yet anyway.

Second, what else should I replace or check while I'm in there? I want to install studs to replace the lift pump bolts, and delete the fuel heater.. But it just dawned on me. Ive read there is a strainer in the fuel heater. Could it be plugged causing my low pressure? And should I delete the entire filter/heater and get a 1st gen lift pump so that I don't need a spacer and two lift pump gaskets?

Thanks!

 

[blackacekk]

I have replaced my lift pump twice as I was dumb and replaced the first one with an OEM one, which is crap. The second one I put on a
FUEL LIFT PUMP - FASS DRP 02 ('98.5-'02), which i got from Geno's Garage. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/fass-ddrp-02/fass-fuel-system
This is a direct bolt in to the original location and has worked great for me. They have an inline filter that needs to be added to the line prior to the lift pump. My system keeps fuel pressure at the original filter around the 18 to 21 PSI range at all times. Highly recommended.

As for getting them on and off, it is a lot of laying on the engine, and I did remove the Starter to help with some of the bolts.

Hope this helps

 

[rebar]

I have replaced my lift pump twice.
As for getting them on and off, it is a lot of laying on the engine, and I did remove the Starter to help with some of the bolts.

Hope this helps

I forgot to update this but thankfully I don't need a new lift pump. I didn't get the return line pinched off 100% my first try but third or fourth try I got well over 40 psi which means my overflow valve is weak. I put a cut down ball point pen spring inside the stock spring and I'm now at 24 psi idle compared to 12. I just received the Torktek OFV020 which should take care of my fuel pressure.

I cant imagine coming in from the top because my hydroboost brake master would have to be removed, compared to a drive shaft and starter.. Either way sounds like a *****

 

[BigPapa]

I have replaced my lift pump twice as I was dumb and replaced the first one with an OEM one, which is crap. The second one I put on a
FUEL LIFT PUMP - FASS DRP 02 ('98.5-'02), which i got from Geno's Garage. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/fass-ddrp-02/fass-fuel-system
This is a direct bolt in to the original location and has worked great for me. They have an inline filter that needs to be added to the line prior to the lift pump. My system keeps fuel pressure at the original filter around the 18 to 21 PSI range at all times. Highly recommended.

As for getting them on and off, it is a lot of laying on the engine, and I did remove the Starter to help with some of the bolts.

Hope this helps

kk,
I’m sure rebar appreciates the help, but he has a 12V. FASS does offer a pump for the 12V but it is a different animal from your DRP and quite a bit more expensive. The dependability and fuel supplied by the factory 12V pump is hard to beat.

rebar,
I have a RWD and I did mine from above. If I’d used studs it would’ve been much easier. Beyond that, I’m afraid I’m not much help.

-Scott

 

[blackacekk]

kk,
I’m sure rebar appreciates the help, but he has a 12V. FASS does offer a pump for the 12V but it is a different animal from your DRP and quite a bit more expensive. The dependability and fuel supplied by the factory 12V pump is hard to beat.

rebar,
I have a RWD and I did mine from above. If I’d used studs it would’ve been much easier. Beyond that, I’m afraid I’m not much help.

-Scott

Man did not catch that it was a 12V. Thanks for the heads up on that one. Will look more closely before throwing out my 1.5 cents

 

[GAmes]

I go in from the side.

 

[rebar]

I go in from the side.

I'm thinking about cutting the lower rear fender well off to. The fender well liner will protect good enough.

 

[Hootguy]

pull the fender liner and cut an access hole/notch,,makes lift pump work do much easier,like it was said,the liner covers it all up,

 

[rebar]

Just wondering, after I drill out most of my plastic rivets to remove the liner, will a regular pop rivet gun work on new plastic rivets? Or can I use christmas tree push pins instead of the rivets? Is there a better reusable fastener for liners?

Thanks! And thank you dodge!

 

[GAmes]

You shouldn't have to drill them out. With a little finesse they can be reused. The ones that break can be replaced by 1/4 inch nylon rivets from Lowes Depot.

 

[rebar]

You shouldn't have to drill them out. With a little finesse they can be reused. The ones that break can be replaced by 1/4 inch nylon rivets from Lowes Depot.

Ive only pried on one enough to realize rivets. I can get to the backside of a few to pick them straight, but not most.
Finesse? haha. I have patience but not much of finesse

Need like quarter turn quick release

 

[DavidC]

If you can drill out the pins you can pickup some stainless phillips screws to reinstall the rivets, that would make them reusable.

Dave

 

[nascar mark]

Don’t understand the need to remove a panel to change a 12v mech lift pump....as its easy peasy job from above. 20mins at most.

 

[NIsaacs]

Don’t understand the need to remove a panel to change a 12v mech lift pump....as its easy peasy job from above. 20mins at most.

I don't have a 12v but on my 24v that's how I do it. Like 5 times I think

 

[rebar]

Don’t understand the need to remove a panel to change a 12v mech lift pump....as its easy peasy job from above. 20mins at most.

You guys are correct. After I removed my cold pipe, reaching the fuel heater/strainer wasn't to bad. I removed the heater, cleaned the strainer and reassembled. This was due to my low fuel pressure issue 28 psi 2000 rpm. I backed the Tork Tek ofv adjustment screw out after reassembling and now have 24 psi idle and 29 at 2000 rpm. Not bad considering starting out at 13 psi, but shouldn't I have at least 32 psi at 2000 rpm?