Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Lift pump replacement

[tajensen]

After two days of trying to get fuel to the fuel injection pump, I've decided that I need a new lift pump. I am going to call the dealer this afternoon to order the part, unless you all think there is a better place to purchase the part. The next problem I am faced with is that I have no idea of how to replace the LP. I think I have located it (on the firewall side of the fuel filter housing), but I dont' know what is entailed in its removal and replacement. I know some of you have quite a bit of experience with the lift pump.

 

[mlockner]

I got my lift pump from the Cummins dealer in Denver area. It was $75. 00 cheaper than the dealer. 150 vrs 225. It took all of about 30 minutes to change. Make sure you ask about the wiring harness apapter. Besides the in/out banjo bolt fittings there are 3 bolts on top that hold it on. Unplug the plug first. Really ain't that difficult.

Mike Lockner

 

[rkressg]

Go to Cummins, I just changed mine the other day, I will try to get the part number. If you go to Cummins, you just need the engine serial number. It will cost approx. $150 from Cummins, the dealers want approx. $225. Worst of all, if you buy it from Mopar, it will still come in a Cummins box with a sticker over the Cummins part number.

 

[lmills]

Ditto on Cummins, don't waste your time paying for over priced items at the dealer

 

[scbrown]

When replacing mine, I called Cummins first and got the price and part number.

Then went to the dealer (much closer to home) as posted above the price was more at the dealer, when I told the parts manager I could get it ALOT cheaper from Cummins, he said no way, we make them for Cummins:--)



I have never been back to that dealer!!!

 

[Joe Mc]

tajensen,



On mine (1999) I needed a 3/4" box/open wrench, 12 & 10mm sockets, 1/4" drive ratchet. Drain fuel bowl & remove power connector. The front banjo is easier to get at w/bowl out of the way. Loosen front & back banjos, then loosen the 3 mounting nuts (12mm) and the 1 bolt (10mm) holding the wire loom to the pump mount. Remove banjos, careful to catch the inside gasket / washers as you remove the bolts. Take nuts/bolts rest of the way out. Reverse process being very careful not to tighten banjos over 18# (I think). It's a guess (18#) as I couldn't fit my torque wrench in there.



Now the fun part, priming and starting. If you've changed a fuel filter before you should be OK here just may tak a bit longer.



Joe Mc

 

[mpjmpj]

Had I seen this information 24 hours ealier, I would have saved myself the agony of looking for that darn washer in the driveway under the truck in the dark with a flashlight.



Never did find it. No leaks so far.



I was worried I would have to somehow prime the pump. (Thought of that after I started the job and had no diesel around). Luckily it turned right over, swallowed once and ran great since.

 

[Joe Mc]

mpjmpj,



Lost a washer too, never found it either. I think they dissapear into the void between the starter and the solenoid. I was luck I had some old banjo bolts around w/washers still on them. I'd get some new washers though, running without them could be hazardous to your health. MHO



Joe

 

[CFAR]

If a 2000 is the same as my 01. 5, the banjos are 17mm(socket), the three nuts holding the lp to bracket are 13mm(box wrench), and the bolt holding the fuel line bracket is 10mm(socket).



I take the rubber hose from the output of the lp to the input of the ff canister off of the ff canister, disconnect the lp electrical and remove pump, takes about 8 minutes. All done from the top.

No priming required. The imput to the lp I slid behind some wires running down fire wall. Didn't want the hose to fall down and start a siphon.

 

[lsenus]

When I lost my LP & VP I got the pump from a Frieghtliner dealer for $140, dealer wanted $349!!! I put the new LP in the truck to no avail. Out with the new and back in with the old and off to the dealer on the flatbed. During the reinstall those darn banjo washers fell and I spent 45 minutes looking for them, only to find one stuck to the side of the block behind the starter.

 

[tajensen]

Updates on installation

Well, installation went well. I was fortunate enough to have a buddy with me to help, especially in those hard to reach spots (he's got smaller arms than I). I used the wiring harness from the old lift pump (not sure if this is a no-no) and I am definitely getting a constants stream of fuel to the banjo, but the truck still wont start. I am perplexed, to say the least. The fuel is getting there, but it's not turning over. My batteries were running low, so I am going to plug them into a slow charger and try again tomorrow. If I'm missing anything, please chime in. Thanks for all the support.

 

[radar doctor]

This all sounds great. What about a Guy with Short Arms??

 

[tajensen]

Confucious say: "man with short arms is no help with Cummins"

 

[tom sweeney]

what is this wiring harness adapter????. . im getting ready to change mine as well, appreciate any info... . tom

 

[lmills]

Some of the newer design lift pumps require a wiring harness adapter when replacing the older design . The plugs were different , I think. I am not sure when the change took place.

 

[lmills]

Re: Updates on installation

Originally posted by tajensen

Well, installation went well. I was fortunate enough to have a buddy with me to help, especially in those hard to reach spots (he's got smaller arms than I). I used the wiring harness from the old lift pump (not sure if this is a no-no) and I am definitely getting a constants stream of fuel to the banjo, but the truck still wont start. I am perplexed, to say the least. The fuel is getting there, but it's not turning over. My batteries were running low, so I am going to plug them into a slow charger and try again tomorrow. If I'm missing anything, please chime in. Thanks for all the support.

Was the motor cranking over? Just not starting? You might have sucked air into the system and have to bleed the injectors

 

[tajensen]

Lift pump/fuel pressure gauge installation...the finale

I thought I'd let you all know how it's going over here with the lift pump installation. As I said earlier, the pump went in easy enough with the help of a smaller framed person. I think next time I will remove the fuel filter canister so that I can reach in there more easily. Even with the new pump and successful priming, I still could not get the engine to turn over. I suspected that my batteries were running low, and sure enough, after letting them charge for a few hours, the engine turned over without problems.



I couldn't just leave well enough alone, so today I decided to finish installing the mechanical fuel pressure gauge. I removed the stock banjo bolt and replaced it with the tapped bolt from Geno's. I connected the line of grease gun hose to the isolator, bumped the starter, and fuel started spraying! I tightened the flared fittings down and started the truck (thank God for no problems here). I'm getting 13 psi at idle and 9 psi at 1/2 throttle. I know these numbers are lower than what others are getting, but my isolator is about 8 inches higher than the vp44 and the gauge is about 18 inches above the isolator. I think this is enough to explain a difference in 2 psi.



Finally, I thank all of you for your attention and advise.