Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Lift pump runaround

[LarryM]

I change the oil & filter every 3,000 and the fuel filter every other oil change. Each time I change oil, I check the fuel pressure at the test port before the filter using a 4 year old Snap-on fuel test gauge. The fuel pressure has always been 14 psi ever since new, but this time it was 7. 5 psi. I checked it again with a different fuel pressure gauge, a Craftsman, and it reads the same, 7. 5 psi. The service manual says that the pressure should be 10 psi MINIMUM, (it is written bold and in caps). I take it to the dealer, and after 5 hours, the service writer tells me that there is nothing wrong, that it meets the spec. I tell him that I used two different gauges that are quality tools and that just can't be. Well, he made the mistake of letting me go back to the service area to see for myself. I found the shop monkey working on it. This kid starts my truck and shows me his test gauge and I was struck by what I saw. The guage he was using had the glass broken out of it, had a big dent in the edge that deformed the gauge by more than an inch, the dial was loose so that I could move it around and make it read anywhere within 30 psi, and was leaking/spraying fuel all over my engine compartment. This gauge was reading 10 psi. I told him to shut it down and asked them if they really thought that this gauge was useable? The kid said "this is a $200. 00 tool and I trust it". The service writer looked a little sheepish and said nothing. The service manager came in with his tie and crisp white shirt and asked if there was a problem. I told him what had transpired, and asked if there was another gauge that we could use when the kid piped up that this was the only gauge they had in the shop. I showed the manager the gauge and asked if he would trust it. He said that the gauge showed the fuel pressure to be at the lower spec, and the he couldn't justify to Dodge replacing the pump under warranty. I was stunned by this outfit. As a Submariner for all these years I know the value of calibrated torque wrenches and test equipment and I say that no Service manager worth his salt would even allow a tool like that in his shop, let alone say something like that in front of a customer. Anyway, I took it to another dealer and he said that the lift pump is not covered under warranty until after the 2002 model year. In other words, my 2000 is not under warranty. I know that you guys have had your 2000 lift pumps replaced under warranty, but I can't find out for sure if it is really covered or not. Nothing in my warranty information mentions anything about it. Looks like I'll replace it myself, the dealers here want $375. plus tax for the pump. Where is a good place to get a replacement, and does anyone have any information on warranty questions with the lift pump? Thanks for you help and suggestions.



Larry

 

[jbone]

Larry, Don't know about all those warranty questions, but I bought my replacement pump from Cummins (about $135 as I remember).

You really need to get that gauge (FP) into the truck... my 2cents. R, J. B.

 

[Thomas]

My model year 2000 Ram factory service manual reads just like yours. However, the method D/C uses to pass or fail the transfer pump changed early last year. Take a look at TSB 14-002-03 for the current procedure.



Use the Cummins Service Locator to locate a pump and change it yourself. If it's suggested that you also need a "pigtail" when purchasing the pump turn it down. Model year 2000-2002 ISB's don't need the pigtail.



Have fun!

 

[rweis]

DO a search on lp's and you will quickly find the part number to ask for.



I carry a spare and got mine at Peterbilt. Peterbilt had a Cummins ISB in a little truck several years ago, but they can get Cummins parts for 10 years. Cost was about $135 I think.



I moved mine to the frame rail etc etc etc see sig.



Bob Weis

 

[JPope]

My 2000 LP was replaced under warranty, at about 44,000 miles, under the old policy of pressure, quite a while back, but as was pointed previously, they now use a volume measurement! When mine was replaced, the diesel service supervisor, asked why I thought it needed replacing, I explained 0 to below 0 pressure during acceleration, and he took my word. and replaced it!!!!! Oo.

My problem solved!



Seems they are getting more picky about warranty on this, couldn't be because of the number of them they have had to replace :{ .



As with all warranty issues, some dealers are better than others, so maybe check another dealer, who knows they might even have the right tools, in good condition (seems as though the dealer you were using did not know how to check according to latest Dodge policy :-laf ) and was using less than 5 STAR tools , so again maybe try another dealer, or as previously noted the LP's are available much cheaper elsewhere

 

[DVR]

my truck is still under a full warranty through a mopar service contract. they would not replace mine under warranty either (0 psi at wot).

i just bought one from the local cummins dealer and installed it myself. it was not worth the trouble to fight with them.

i paid $155 from the cummins dealer. don't forget 4 new washers for the fuel line fittings.

 

[Beast2B]

check ebay, i just got a spare for $130 shipped.

 

[aarlucas]

I got mine at:

Hoesli Diesel Service

www.hoeslidiesel.com

Cummins/Fleetguard Dealer



It was 136 shipped to my house. These guys are great to deal with too!

 

[LarryM]

Well, I finally got it done, replaced the lift pump myself. Cummins here in Memphis wanted $166. 95 for a replacement, so I checked around and the cheapest was from Freightliner at $135. When I picked up the pump, I forgot to get the banjo gaskets, so I went to the dealer, (it was closer), and they wanted $4. 78 + tax EACH!!! :--) . I told them to get snapped and went to autozone and paid 25 cents each. I changed the pump and my test gauges show 14. 5 psi with the pump running and engine off, 13 psi engine ideling and 10 WO throttle on the road. I ordered a three gauge a pillar pod from Geno's along with a DiPricol Fuel pressure gauge and a long banjo bolt threaded for the gauge. I installed them yesterday. I had a braided stainless line made up at a hose shop for $15 and installed it on filter canister outlet with the new larger banjo bolt. I was curious about my old pump, so I made up a rig to run it on the bench, pumping from a jug of clean fuel into an empty jug. I used a regulated 12 volt power supply to power it. In 25 seconds, it pumped 52 oz. I took the pump part apart, and there was absolutely no wear or problem with the pump or the relief. I did find that when running, I could knock the side of the motor section and it would really slow down and increase the electrical running load. I believe that the problem with this pump is that the motor bushings, (or bearings) are shot allowing the armature to get mis-aligned and binding the pump causing low pressure. I could hit it again with my knuckle, and it would pick back up and run ok again. I took it back apart and with only the motor shaft and no pump parts, I could duplicate this problem. It sure is surprising that there was no detectable wear in this thing. The motor is sealed, I'm going to cut the crimp off and take the motor section apart to satisfy my need to know. I'll post the results. Many thanks to all who responded and helped with this, and to Geno's. I can't believe what the dealer charges for parts, I thought the government and what it pays for submarine parts was outrageous, good thing DC doesn't make submarine parts. Thanks again Guys...

Larry