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Light bar bracket

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Would it be safe to use the front tow hooks mount as a base for a light bar bracket? The tow hooks look like they will come off by removing the 4 bolts on each side leaving a nice flat surface to put a bracket on and then remount the tow hooks.
I’d like to put together my own light bar for some LED lights for the front of my 2014. I have some .125 stainless sheet and some 1.25” round tube that would polish out to a mirror finish and look pretty good.
Just wondering if anybody else has done this.
Thanks

Tim B
 
I used the tow hook mounts to mount my home made front receiver on my 2001 without a problem. Just be sure to torque the bolts back to spec and it should not be a problem.

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Chris
 
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I just did my light bar last night using the tow hooks. The only thing is that I need to replace the tow hook bolts with ones that are about 1/2" longer. In stock configuration the bolt only comes flush with the nut, now it is only about half way into the nut. The inside top bolt on each hook is a real bear to get the nut back on with big hands. All I used was two pieces of 1/4" x 4" aluminum flatbar and bent them inward just a little toward the radiators and they worked out perfectly. For the actual light clips I used S.S. counter sunk bolts and bolted the clips on before bolting the plate to the truck because you only have about 1/4" clearance behind the plate once it is on. The plate needs to have the slight bend because the two tow hooks mounting surfaces are not at the same angle, they tilt outwards a bit. In my case the light would hit the bumper also if the plates weren't bent back a little.

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Also a couple of shots of my led lights in the trailer tow mud flaps that I built last week.

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A final rear shot of the flaps. They are wired into the reverse light wire at the fifth wheel box plug and come on with reverse. Also little LED marker lights in the ends wired in with the clearance lights to help people avoid walking into them in the dark, at least when the lights are on. :eek:

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The pictures are very helpful. The CJC bracket is what I had in mind to start with but mpaulson’s is possibly easier to make and also makes me ask is my .125 SS going to be strong enough.

Mpaulson - I was under the impression that I should not put a air flow restriction in front of the intercooler slot and your light bar is using that space. Avoiding that interference was my plan and also why the CJC bracket style would allow me to drop the light bar down below the opening so the airflow to the intercooler was not restricted. But since seeing yours I have to ask if there is really any reason for such concerns? Your way certainly makes for a cleaner appearance and protects the light. Nice.

Wow! That’s an impressive looking deck on your box. Even got work and clearance lights on it. Is that a pair of 4 wheelers?

TimB
 
I had asked the question a few weeks ago when someone else had a post about putting a light there and the general consensus was that it wouldn't make that much of a difference. Right where the light is centred it is just above the intercooler and at the bottom of the AC condenser and rad, so I don't think it will matter much. Most of the air that the intercooler will get will be from the lower holes in the plastic air dam under the steel part of the bumper. .125 S.S. might be prone to vibrating a little to much with the amount that it has to extend to reach the lights unless your light is longer than mine, in my opinion.
As for my deck, yea, that's a pair of Outlander Max's, Eton quad for kids, generator, wood/water trailer for the quads to pull, dog kennel and room for two kayaks yet that aren't on there at the moment. I have an 35 gal water tank and a 235 litre fuel tank under the deck as well. I've gone nuts with the LED lights in the last two weeks. I have 8 flood lights mounted on the deck and I can light up a good 60' radius 360 degrees around the truck as well as two mounted near the back of the RV so I can see where I'm backing it in for those late night arrivals. I will look like a space ship pulling in when I light up. All the deck and trailer lights are wired to one of the oem aux switches on the dash as well as the light bar on one as well.
If you search E-bay and or Amazon you can find good deals. I got a box of 10 flood lights for $190. Yea, there made in China, but at that price I can replace them easily when needed. The light bar was only $160 something as well. If they fail there not my critical head lights or anything like that at least.
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