Light Switch R&R

[bstrong]

Well, it appears that my light switch is AFU. Started smelling a burning/melting, and traced it to the light switch. Now I need your help with any tricks to get at this bugger. Anyone R&R'ed one of these $80+ POS. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[GFoley]

I have replaced mine. I could not pull the fog lamps on any longer. Some little piece inside broke and wouldn't keep the contact in place. I tried gluing it but no good.



Replacement is best and I was only able to find the correct switch at the local dealer. It do not know what style light switch you have but the swap is real easy. This was the first time I took the dash trim off.



I pulled and pulled until I thought I broke it but the "CRACK" was the first of several clips coming out of the holes. Everything was OK. Three screws later the new unit was in and everything was buttoned up, all finished.

 

[Dennis Garrett]

I got lucky and found an almost new one in a wrecked 95 1500 in a salvage yard for $20. Works fine, but still gives me the same hot/warm feeling when I lay my hand on the dash above it at night. It cools down when I turn the gauge lights completely off. I added Cab clearence lights, and thought that might be part of the problem, but have since put in a relay to run them off the battery, & it still gets hot.

 

[Shovelhead]

One of our members pulled the switch out and drilled a hole in the AC/Defroster vent running beside the switch.

Now when the air is blowing throught the vent, it's also cooling the switch.



These guys will figure a way to BOMB anything!

 

[tgbol]

I was the one that did it! A 5/16 hole in the vent allows air to circulate over the heat sink on the switch. It still gets warm but on a 5 hour trip at night with a trailer I was still able to touch the switch without being burned. Also how dim you have the dashlight also effect the heat, I keep mine pretty dim so the switch gets hotter.

 

[bstrong]

Job is done, Thanks

Thanks guys, I pulled it apart last night. Piece of Cake. A friend of mine, who happens to be a mechanic at the local Fire Dept suggested using a relay and a direct power line for my trailer lights. This is suppose to reduce the current draw through the switch. I'm going to give it a try this weekend, and I'll keep you posted on the results.

 

[tgbol]

Using the relay is a good idea. Because i never know who's trailer I am hooking up to I have put relays on all of my trailer wiring. One for running lights, one for each turn and brake light. I used Hella relays with fuses built into them.

 

[KEnhoffer]

Stranded by my switch

Last month I was stranded by my headlight switch and had to spend the night - can't drive w/o headlights. It failed with no warning and was not getting hot either. I pulled out the knob and only the parking lights would turn on. The switch would not pull out further. I jiggled some more and the entire knob and shaft came out in my hand. The dealer replaced same the next day, only cost me $50 deductible (sic) on my extended warranty. Later I discovered my dome light would not turn on when the knob was twisted. Back to the dealer - the mechanic who installed the switch bent the dome light terminal. when he installed it.