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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Load sensing brake valve.

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Auto Trans idling question

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What is the scoop with that thing. The bar that connects to my sensor valve to the axle is MIA. Am I getting full power to my rear brakes at all times or next to nothing at all times???



The reason I am asking is I tried to do a burn out a couple of times and it is a no go. Bunch of exhaust smoke, a little boost and no rear tires bustin loose. What gives??? My truck can't have that good of rear brakes! (They were done about 15,000 miles ago)
 
Load Valve For Brakes

I disconnected the lever rod that moves the arm on the valve a few days ago and zip tied the lever almost straight up and down.



I cannot believe the extra braking authority I got out of the rear brakes... like night and day!



Real happy with this fix!



My front brakes were being overworked and the rear brakes were basically on vacation full-time!



I have to be careful now not to launch myself thru the windshield when I stop.



MacGreenie
 
Be Careful

on wet, icy or snowy roads. i tied mine up too and had to replace the arm in the winter time cause running empty i would slide the wheels every time i would touch the brakes. made for a few interesting stops!!!
 
Where's the ABS?

Intresting posts guys,



Question for you, at what point does the real wheel anti-lock stop working if we wire up the arm?
 
EGILLILAND.....

sorry, but I can't answer that one.



I made a turnbuckle for my link and just lengthen it out about 1/2"-3/4" for summer driving. I found if I leave it there I have the same experiences (pucker factor) as jkern in the winter. :eek:
 
Removed mine as well.

I have the camper on 90% of the time but when I got the new trany installed I was going to pick up the camper and the rear end came around a bit on me. This was summer, dry and hot on an interstate off ramp... So I can not imagine icy or wet conditions. Scared the S*#@ out of me!!! But with the camper the mod works GREAT!!! I would not be without it. I used a hose clamp as I don't trust the zip tie to not come off... ;)



Hose clamp == metal == good, zip tie == plastic == bad... ;)



If I do have to drive unloaded for a long time I have the rod in the glove box to pop back on. Hose clamp can be removed and installed back without having to have zip ties around... Of course I have cases of those around as well... :)



Good luck,

Ira
 
Where is it?

Ok so now my wife thinks I'm crazy. She caught me sitting under the truck on my creeper looking for the aforementioned arm... talking to myself. I thought it would be intuitively obvious. Apparently not. Perhaps my 97 doesn't have the infamous gadget? I thought it did. In fact I think I've seen TSB's on the subject.





Anyone able to give some "brick simple" directions to the brake arm thingy?



I apologize ahead of time for being slow on the uptake.
 
It ain't on all of 'em. I looked at our dyno event.



But on mine it's I think it's driver side and attaches close to the shock mount at the rear axle.



But I like the idea of preloading it. My rear brakes hardly had soot on them at 55k. And I run around empty 98% of the time. Another FREAKIN BOMB!!! :D ;)
 
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bmoeller: I don't have one on my 1995 with 4 wheel ABS. Anyone know what years had this lever feature? Maybe trucks with ABS didn't get the lever?
 
TSB

There was a post sometime ago that discussed the proportioning valve. I went to the Dealer and purchased the kit described in the TSB and installed it. Very pleased with the additional braking!



The TSB mentions your truck should be operating at 75% of the GVW, which is only 6,600#. Most of our vehicles weigh more than that when running empty. My truck weighs just over 8,000#, so the improved braking was very nice. (Rear axle @ 3,500#) Never have had any problems with locking up the rear wheels after the mod.



Good Luck,



Frank Dz
 
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