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Location for ignition hot source from to trigger the relay?

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abdiver

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Painless Install, I would rather not use the engine compartment fuse box location. I would have to drill or cut a small entrance hole for the pink wire to pass through the box. This could allow moisture to enter the area, I tend to keep my trucks along time 20 years and I live on the coast (damp area) corrossion is my biggest enemy.



Is here an Ignition ON, HOT source inside the cab that I can go to to power the relay? Seems there must be. Can any of you electrical experts point me in the right direction?



Thanks, Bill
 
I tapped into the wires that feed the cigar lighter to power and ground my radar detector, you can try that. It is hot only in the ignition on and accessory on positions.



What relay is it you are trying to feed?
 
Painless Wiring Kit Install

GECCO said:
I tapped into the wires that feed the cigar lighter to power and ground my radar detector, you can try that. It is hot only in the ignition on and accessory on positions.



What relay is it you are trying to feed?



GECCO,



It's the Painless Wiring Kit's pink wire it is fused a 3 amps aprox # 20 wire used to activate a relay that controls the Ignition ON side of the Painless Wiring Kit.



I was thinking about the Cigar lighter, I was not sure if it was controlled by ignition switch was going to ask here today and test it myself. I don't see a problem with it also being HOT on the acc. position too.



Now if I can fit my old stiff body in position to get to it. I would rather go

Do you recall the wire color? Its raining today so doubt I will get to it till rain stops. Hopefully someone has another source or suggestion



Thanks for the response, Bill
 
I think fuse #16 on my 2002 fuse panel by the door and if you use a Belkin piggyback fuse holder you get the orgional circuit with it's own fuse and the add-on circuit with it's own fuse. They come in both mini and full size 2 legged type fuses.



Use a voltage tester to make sure you have an ignition on only on #16 (pulling the #16 from memory).



I run a Painless Wiring System also. I would advise to also run more wire than you need for the painless system for later add ons.



I use that same circuit to trigger the relays (power side connected directly to the battery through an individual fuse, through the relay, on to the device) for the lp, the fan blower for the VP44, the fan blower for the return fuel coolers, and the SmarTire tire pressure system.



Bob Weis
 
Last edited:
rweis said:
I think fuse #16 on my 2002 fuse panel by the door and if you use a Belkin piggyback fuse holder you get the orgional circuit with it's own fuse and the add-on circuit with it's own fuse. They come in both mini and full size 2 legged type fuses.



Use a voltage tester to make sure you have an ignition on only on #16 (pulling the #16 from memory).



I run a Painless Wiring System also. I would advise to also run more wire than you need for the painless system for later add ons.



I use that same circuit to trigger the relays (power side connected directly to the battery through an individual fuse, through the relay, on to the device) for the lp, the fan blower for the VP44, the fan blower for the return fuel coolers, and the SmarTire tire pressure system.



Bob Weis



Bob, Thanks for the reply But I don't understand your comment " I would advise to also run more wire than you need for the painless system for later add ons. " Wouldn't I for future add ons just hook up to one of the Ignition ON 20 amp wires of the Painless fuse block that I am installing.



Or am I missing something basic (its happened before)



Thanks again, Bill
 
abdiver,

I ran the pink to do the relays on the painless. Then added a relay to power the lp, needed ignition on trigger for that relay (not amperage power), then I added a relay for ... , needed ignition on trigger for that relay, then I .....



The little pink wire is now running the trigger for the painless plus 3 more relays (for various things). What I was trying to relay (no pun intended) was after the Painless I extended the little pink wire to 3 more relays. I used the Painless amperage circuits to run stuff like ebrake modules, gauge power, etc, but have several seperate circuit things (after I ran out of painless circuits) that the little pink wire triggers the relay for ...



Maybe I should have used the painless circuits to trigger different relays, but instead I used them to be primary power to those circuits.



Bob Weis
 
I came up with a different Circuit # ????

tschidas said:
Dodge bodybuilder guide indicates Ignition Run Feed to be the cigar lighter Circuit F30 (red 18 wire), this of course for late model as you have. Good Luck



http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/2006/





tschidas, Thanks you got me closer to what I am looking for But when I look at the Horn/Cigar Lighter/Power Outlet wiring diagram I come up with Circuit F984 - 18 gage - Pink wire with Yellow tracer



Below Link is where I found the above information



http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/20...gdiagrams/8w41horncigarlighterpoweroutlet.pdf



IF I can physically get to the back of the Cigar liter for a look see to confirm.



I will look for the correct colored wire then test it with my circuit tester to make sure it is correct before cutting it.



Please post if you know why the difference in your Circuit # vs the one I came up with.



Thanks again, Bill
 
abdiver said:
tschidas, Thanks you got me closer to what I am looking for But when I look at the Horn/Cigar Lighter/Power Outlet wiring diagram I come up with Circuit F984 - 18 gage - Pink wire with Yellow tracer



Below Link is where I found the above information



http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/20...gdiagrams/8w41horncigarlighterpoweroutlet.pdf



IF I can physically get to the back of the Cigar liter for a look see to confirm.



I will look for the correct colored wire then test it with my circuit tester to make sure it is correct before cutting it.



Please post if you know why the difference in your Circuit # vs the one I came up with.



Thanks again, Bill

Bill,



Your probably in the right area, the detail I provided came from the snowplow install (RSI.pdf) and I suspect it notes the wrong circuit or for a different year? I would trust the schematics more then the guide. Good Luck.
 
Best way to gain access to back of Cigar lighter area

tschidas, Thanks again



Rain is slowly stopping supposed to clear so I am making a quick 3 hr parts run to pick up a few misc items for the install. Hopefully sun will be out on my return.



I will see if I can find the wire



Anyone have any tip on if I should try to remove any plastic to access area?
 
I just put mine in last week. The cigar lighter is easy and shouldn't be too hard on your back if you pull the center dash panel. The red wire (not sure if there's a tracer on it, but the other one's an entirely different color) is the ignition-on hot.



Tip. When putting the face of the center dash back on, it goes better if you line up/insert the plastic clip at the lower right (just to the left of the screw hole for the panty hook) before pressing the rest of the clips back home.
 
"Panty Hook"



That is just too da-- funny. But come to think of it thats about all its good for... ... . Still laughing at that one.



Jim
 
I located the power to Cigar wire at inside firewall

I located the power to Cigar wire at inside firewall I ran a test light to the wire and is was hot with Ignition and Acc position and cold with key in off position also it is the correct gauge and color Red with Yellow tracer. So it Just gota be the one.



I ran the painless pink wire down to and through the rubber grommet I pearced a very small hole though it, ran wire behind the carpet a firewall so clutch pedal will not touch the wire when depressed I noted the clutch pedal is some type of composite material at least it will not rust. Tomorrow I will cut and splice in the pink wire



Any suggestions before I go any further



Bill
 
Question:

I was planning to solder the pink wire to the existing Cigar 18 gauge wire and then use a shrink tube to seal the connection. This will take longer to make this type connection



But now since I am inside the cab with the splice. I am considering using a gold plated crimp on connector that I would only have to cut wire and crimp on. This would be a lot faster to do. It would be just as protected as the other factory connections inside the cab.



Would appreciate your opinions



Thanks again, Bill
 
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