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Locking hubs conversion kits for Dodge trucks?

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Hi. I think of installing some locking/free hub kit on my truck. I figure I'll upgrade the steering rod arms to the new type and replace all the ball joints at the same time. I see Spyntec Shorty kits for $1550 with free ship on Ebay. Any suggestions? Things work good now but I think hubs would be a great addition to stop all the stuff turning. Are they worth it? Any better or easier to put in kits? Thanks, Herb :rolleyes:
 
PARTICULARLY if you tow a trailer, the usefulness of the kit is extended as it allows the use of low gearing (in 4WD low) without actually limiting the turning radius of the truck. While some people claim (and maybe actually achieve) a mpg benefit, that has not been so in my case... at least noting that I can actually measure, so IMO if the MPG gains exists,they are minimal minimal and certainly will not pay back the cost of the kit over the lifetime of the truck. That being said, the ease of turning and responsiveness of the front end of the truck does improve with these kits. ALso, they simply must increase the lifespan of other front end components that are always turning. That being said, I belie ve it is important to engage the hubs and 4wd occasionally in order to keep all the other oem parts lubed and turning.

I personally went with the DynaTrca free spin kit with Dynatrac locking hubs because the parts are ALL manufactured here in the US and are available through DynaTrac, which also offers excellent cutover and technical support. It was also a true plugn'play kit with no need to cut down bolts or anything.Most all of the other kits contain components manufactured overseas and while this is not necessarily a bad thing, IMO the ability to receive domestic parts and customer support was integral in my decision to go with DynaTrac. That being said, they ARE more expensive, but I have always been a firm believer that in the aftermarket parts game, you get what you pay for. Just my .02 .
 
They are also very useful if you use your truck off road to allow 2WD low range. Most of the time I don't need the traction from the front axle, I just want the lower gearing for slow speed off road work and none of the binding in sharp turns. I hope to be installing the spyntec kit before the end of the year.
 
I also have the Dynatrac hub kit with the Dynatrac selectors. my 2007, 5.9 has the G56 six speed stick and the hubs are invaluable for backing my 5th wheel trailer. Even if you have an automatic, 2wd LOW is a lot easier on your transmission when backing as it is my understanding that reverse in the automatic trans is a weak point too. Going down the road, it makes the steering lighter. An EXPENSIVE but well used and appreciated modification.
 
I installed one of the first sets of shorty Spyntech's and have had great luck. Matt builds these kits in eastern Ohio, US and Canadian metal. The only real difference between them is Syntech's have a better seal on backside for less dirt and moisture to get in, better bearings and the plating process is slightly better on Spyntech also. I installed stage 8 locking hardware and a set of Dynalock knobs, they stick out less and if break will be locked. I would not have a truck without them.
 
I installed one of the first sets of shorty Spyntech's and have had great luck. Matt builds these kits in eastern Ohio, US and Canadian metal. The only real difference between them is Syntech's have a better seal on backside for less dirt and moisture to get in, better bearings and the plating process is slightly better on Spyntech also. I installed stage 8 locking hardware and a set of Dynalock knobs, they stick out less and if break will be locked. I would not have a truck without them.

Better bearings?
 
Better bearings?
Pretty hard to get better than U.S. made timken roller bearings...Right Dave?
When I pulled my old EMS set to put the Dynatracs on, the Timkens in the EMS set were the same as the Dynatracs. After 45,000 miles, the Stalube RED grease was still bright red.
 
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Yeah,my friend's Dynaloc's have done well. He's beat on them in northwest Baja crossing quite a few brackish vados and miles and miles of moondust and sand.
Servicing them @ 40K yielded a clean set of bearings and the grease was doing well.
 
I have a good 20k on my spyntec kit. There's no going back. If for only one reason, it's for the adjustable rebuild able tapered roller bearings. The load ratings are exponentially higher than the ball bearings you're ditching. If you know anything about automotive evolution, in the 50's into the 60's the move from ball wheel bearings to tapered rollers was a huge advancement behind the tandem master cylinder. It's gone backwards. You have to fix it- by going backwards.
 
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I have a good 20k on my spyntec kit. There's no going back. If for only one reason, it's for the adjustable rebuild able tapered roller bearings. The load ratings are exponentially higher than the ball bearings you're ditching. If you know anything about automotive evolution, in the 50's into the 60's the move from ball wheel bearings to tapered rollers was a huge advancement behind the tandem master cylinder. It's gone backwards. You have to fix it- by going backwards.

Spyntec presses the studs in. That's a labor saver.
 
Dynatrac did not originally send Timken. Glad they stepped up. Not a big fan of cutting down studs either, trying to get new replacement correct length studs in kit. I like the 2wd low range ability and locker in front.
 
Dynatrac did not originally send Timken. Glad they stepped up. Not a big fan of cutting down studs either, trying to get new replacement correct length studs in kit. I like the 2wd low range ability and locker in front.

Dynatrac does not make you cut down any studs…IIRC that is the Spyntec kit.
 
There are ball bearings in unit hub bearings generally speaking. Are 3gen OE hubs different? Once there's intrusion and damage, and excess tolerance, it us not serviceable.
I have to agree too. The third gens are the same principal as the second gen sealed hub berings. Two ball races with a spacer in between.
 
Thanks Motörhead. I know there was a special design involved with the 3gen hubs with different bearing dia and such, but I don't remember seeing anything special about bearing type. In any event, the fact that these kits, all of them spread the load out on larger bearings placed further apart is the home run. Stopping the front drivetrain and all the good that does is delicious cream. There's a lot of compromise in modern designs.
 
Try double tapered roller bearing. The bearings are not much smaller than the free spin kits so load is not much of an issue. Biggest shortcoming has always been no adjustment for wear not load, once they start wearing it accelerates if they cannot be adjusted.
 
You know Herb, i was thinking of the hub kits also, but I do not drive the truck much and was wondering how many unit hubs I could replace for the cost of the conversion. Tim I do like hubs!!!!!!!!
 
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