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Long(er) wheel studs needed

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Hi all! This is my first post here. I have been told there is a lot of knowledge on your website. Let's see if anyone has been down this road before - ha ha:D. Surley I wont be the first to put aluminum wheels on a 1992 3/4 ton 4x4diesel truck, and surley not the first to discover how short the wheel studs are.



After having had the truck on jackstands for almost 2 months:{, while trying about every "close" measuring wheel stud out there, checking the internet, and calling several aftermarket suppliers, I am still without (I think) suitable wheel studs. I need a 9/16 stud that is about 1/2" longer than the stocker. I found one that is 1/4" longer that goes right in, but I am not satisfied with that. The truck will be run hard, in central Mexico, where roads are rough, and it will be overloaded, pulling a heavy travel trailer, over mountains. Is there some kind of aftermarket or competition stud available?



What have you all done in this situation? I can catch about 1/2" of the threads using the supplied lug nuts (American Racing). I am not comfortable with this. With a new paint job (yup, stripped it), I cant stand to put the stock wheels back on.



Thank you for you help!
 
Not sure if this helps, but I just bought a 91 F 250 diesel extended cab for the rear end. Ford corperate. The studs front an rear look long enough to double nut them. Just salt catchers as i don't run hub caps. Some other Ford axles I look at are similiar. Don't know why ? Its a single wheel truck, not duallie.
 
The first set of aluminium wheels I had were Eagle Alloy 589's, and the studs were too short, and I could not keep those rims tight. I went to some Mickey Thompsons, and then I had no troubles, the rim was thinner in the stud area. I loaded mine up heavy, wheeled it hard with lockers, and towed heavy and had no more loose wheel nuts. I now have some Ion Alloys, and have had no troubles yet, but only have maybe 40 miles on them. They were about 1/2" thick at the wheel bolts hole, much like the Mickey Thompsons.



I guess in short, maybe you should measure your wheel, and pick a better wheel. You could also look at Chevy stuff, as Chevies used 9/16" studs, in dana 60 fronts and 70 rears in the '80's. Dodges have always been 1/2" until 94 and up.



Look at Pirate4x4.com, in the vendor section for Hondo I think, he deals in lots of new and used dana parts, hubs, etc. He may be able to help.



Michael
 
Did You find any 9/16 bolts that were 1/2" longer than original??
Am going to fit 9/16 on my 1989 truck, so any advice would be appreciated.
 
Sorry, I've been so overwhelmed and underpaid that I have done nothing more on the subject. I would recommend to look at the studs for an 1988 F250 4X4. I believe they are 9/16" and the rears are extra long.



Also search for a topic by Dieselman359, his first gen conversion to 4X4. He did some stud work too.



Michael
 
They need to be 9/16"-18 with a . 650" knurl, 2 17/32" lg with a 15/16" shoulder.



Dorman part#: 610-283

Balkamp part#: 641-2794







These should be direct replacements for the front and rear, 9/16" upgrade
 
If you want to do the normal route for aluminum or mag wheels, just get the 'shanked' lug nuts that have a cylindrical shank that slides into the wheel hole, with an acorn bulge on teh end, to enable much more thread engagement.



The 1/2" lugs are plenty big enough for that application.
 
I just think everything`s easier if i get 9/16 treads, as I want different wheels on summer and winter tires, and most newer trucks have 9/16 treads, and other non metric treads isn`t that easy to get hold of here in Norway, not to mention rims.
 
Just curious has anyone had trouble with getting there alloys to center up on their first gen. I have used the acorns and the shank style on my eagle alloys and it still will not center them on the front. apparently the dana 70 hub is just big enough but the 60 is a hair too small or this is what i have been told.
 
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