Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) LONG starting problem

[Got Smoke?]

Well I'm lucky enough to work with a guy that knows a lot about Cummins. Not as much as some of the guys who work on them everyday, but he has a 1st Gen. with injectors, different turbo housing, and pump work so he knows more than I do!



Well I've had a hard or "long" starting problem ever since I got my CTD and haven't been able to figure it out.



Truck has 153,500 miles on it. Had 122,000 when bought



It just takes way to long to start up. I've been told it was my idle being to low, false GSK brought it up that's not it. I thought maybe a set of contacts would fix it, but my buddy at work seems to think that won't do it either. (there in the truck, but not in the starter yet )



He mumbled something about fuel pressure the other day which I didn't understand but we were busy and didn't have that much time to talk.



Does anybody have ANY idea what else it could be I'm almost at my whits end:{

 

[Extreme1]

If the engin cranks over for several seconds before it fires up, you have a bad fuel return line. This is common on the 12 valves. Do a search, you'll find lots of good reading.



It is not one of the funnest jobs, though.

 

[drees1]

Is it long to start cold, hot, or all the time?

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by drees1

Is it long to start cold, hot, or all the time?

All the time Doug, remember I mentioned it when you did my timing?

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Extreme1

If the engin cranks over for several seconds before it fires up, you have a bad fuel return line. This is common on the 12 valves. Do a search, you'll find lots of good reading.



It is not one of the funnest jobs, though.

Where do I get another return line? I know its not an easy job because of its location but what all do you have to do?

 

[illflem]

Most of the time hard starting stems from air in the fuel system. Many times it can suck air without leaking fuel even while parked. Suspect areas are the return line, fuel heater gasket and electrical connection, lift pump primer button, fuel filter gasket and the banjo bolts that connect the various fuel system components together.

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by illflem

Most of the time hard starting stems from air in the fuel system. Many times it can suck air without leaking fuel even while parked. Suspect areas are the return line, fuel heater gasket and electrical connection, lift pump primer button, fuel filter gasket and the banjo bolts that connect the various fuel system components together.

Thanks Bill :{



Now how do I narrow it down?

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by illflem

fuel heater gasket

Bill your not meaning the Air Horn gasket here are you?

 

[Bigramguy]

I think he was referring to the gaskets that seal the heater assy in the pre-filter housing assy. Lots of places air can get in there. If you going to do it,do it all at once,and clean the screen when your in there.

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Bigramguy

and clean the screen when your in there.

First of all I wouldn't know where to start. Second of all could that screen be causing any of this?

 

[illflem]

I doubt if the prefilter clogging will cause hard starting but can cause lower power and poor fuel economy. You should clean it once in a while anyways. The strainer comes off like a bowl on the bottom of the heater, a long extension and a swivel on your ratchet make it easy. If you put a plastic bag over it may prevent a diesel bath when it pops loose. Here's instructions http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/pre-filt_clean.htm



#ad

 

[Extreme1]

Dang Bill, nice post. You have too much time on your hands!!



As for the idle being low, if you blip the throttle as you crank it, does it start up then?

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Extreme1

Dang Bill, nice post. You have too much time on your hands!!



As for the idle being low, if you blip the throttle as you crank it, does it start up then?

Yes it does start right up if I blip the throttle, however when I installed my GSK it brought my RPM's up about 50-100RPM and to around 800 or 850 I would guess and it still does this:{

 

[wcjp]

I replaced my fuel supply/return lines to cure my hard start. I also replaced the prefilter and gaskets. My problem was the liftpump hose. It was severly cracked. I was surprised I couldn't see daylight through the dryrot. I used marine grade diesel line. Also, replace all the cheap DC hose fittings.

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by wcjp

I used marine grade diesel line. Also, replace all the cheap DC hose fittings.

Where can I get marine grade diesel line, and what size do I need? Are there other things besides the fuel return line I can replace that are the same size? (should I buy more than just enough for the return line is what I'm saying)

 

[Tom C]

My truck does the same thing (turns over several times before starting). I just tap the throttle when I start and it fires right then. Ive checked all the systems and replaces valves/lines and it did not help. I think its just one of those things these trucks can have. Just hit the throttle when you go to start the engine.



Tom





PS: as for air entering the system. I think its doubtful. Considering the engine can be running, I then turn it off then go to restart the engine right after turning it off and it will still turn over several times before starting unless I tap the throttle. theres just not enough time for air to enter. And if air were to enter that fast I should be leaking fuel.

 

[wcjp]

I believe the fuel supply/return lines are 5/16" and 3/8". I don't recall which one is which. The dryrot in the liftpump hose was letting in massive amounts of air. After turning off the engine, it would only take a few seconds for air to enter through liftpump hose. I bought my hose from a boat suppy place. It's Coast Guard approved if that means anything.

 

[illflem]

Two feet of each is more than enough, 5/16" is the return line size. The fire proof marine grade diesel hose I got, $5 for both intake and return, was much thicker, new clamps were also necessary. I bought mine here http://www.houseofhose.com/ but any local marine shop will also have it.

 

[Koa Man]

I only needed 1 foot for the 3/8 supply line when I did mine. The return line was a little longer. Get 1 foot of 3/8 and 2 feet of 5/16 and that will be more than enough.

 

[wcjp]

This is also a good time for the LarryB's starter contacts. Also, have a Dremel on hand. One of my factory clamps was a compression type fitting. Had to cut it off.