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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Looking at truck/ TC unlocking and locking

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I brought home a 2000 2500 QC SB with the auto transmission that I may be interested in buying. I've noticed that when going into overdrive around 45 mph, the torque converter locks and unlocks. Once you get up to around 60, it doesn't do it anymore. Wondering what it takes to fix this and that the transmission in this rig is okay. Also, I did the code check and it comes up with a P1693. The ABS and brake light is on. Does this code have anything to do with this? Thanks
 
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Could you pm me the price of one of these filters. I will have it till Wednesday, and would like to know how much more I will have to spend if I decide to buy this truck. Thanks
 
Your transmission lock/unlock may be caused by noise, but the P1693 code means there is a companion code stored that you will need a code reader or DRB scanner to access.



You will also need a DRB scanner to access and read the error code for your ABS/Brake light.



Yon can go to Autozone and have them read to ODBII codes that caused the P1693.



You'll probably need to get a Dodge dealer to read the ABS codes with their DRB scanner. They could also read the codes assoicated with the P1693.



I likely will cost around $60 to have a Dodge dealer hook up their DRB and read the codes.



Lot of problems set the P1693 code including the injection pump. The companion code you read with a scanner will point you in the right direction.



Lot of problems also could cause the ABS/Brake light to set. Often it is a sensor but sometime athe ABS motor or ABS controller.



You may want to check the 40 amp ABS fuse located in the power control box. A shorted ABS motor or ABS electronic motor driver can cause the fuse to blow. Also a bad electronic controller can cause the motor to run all time. I've seen several trucks for sale where someone pulled the fuse to stop the motor running.
 
P1693
DTC Detected In ECM Or PCM

Codes for up to 01 located @ https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96563.

As far as a quick fix for the trans hunting in and out of OD try the fix suggested in the TDR Mag (forget what issue) it was basically wraping the wire from the alternator to the battery with aluminum foil to sheild electrical noise made by the alternator which interferes with the wiring to the trans PC. It's cheap and has worked on some. I have a DTT noise box which was a fix for mine before anyone mentioned the aluminum foil trick. A temporary fix (or could last longer) is to disconnect batteries for about an hour or so (overnight is best) then hook them back up, hop in put key in "on" position (do not start) slowly depress go pedal (slow is the key here) to the floor, then slowly release. Turn off the key and start as normal. This resets the APPS (throttle position) and had worked for me in the past for about a month or so until I got the DTT filter (I think it cost about $50 but not sure). Hope this works for a little while at least to allow you to throughouly test the truck before you buy. How much are they/he/she asking for it? Details, details, miles, options, bombs, previous use, etc. Good luck to you.
 
trans unlocking

The orange wire to the PCM may have more then 5. 0 VDC on it and apparently this affects the shifting of the auto- trans there was an article in one of the TDR's some time ago. Don't remember what the resistance was or the nessecary Wattage is. Someone please jump in.
 
Here's my $. 02. My truck started the TC cycling in an out about a year or two ago (100,000+ miles). It drove me crazy. I learned on this site to disconnect cables, add grounds, clean connections, etc... Always worked as a temporary fix. I even had it at the dealer once, who installed a TPS. This did not cure the problem. I continued struggling with the cable on/off thing until I heard of the DTT noise filter. I installed it, and this cured it for a couple months. I never adjusted the TPS voltage as recommended. Eventually, the cycling in and out came back, and I have gone back to the cable on/off trick. The cycling with the filter was of less intensity and duration than before though. Last week (now at 260,000 miles), I was driving along and got a dead pedal. The truck idled fine, just no pedal at all. Check engine light came on, so I checked the code. I don't remember the code, but it was a faulty TPS. I cleared it, and the pedal came back. 10 minutes later, did it again. Cleared it, and it hasn't done it since. I then went home and checked the voltage on the blue/orange PCM wire. It was . 65v. I adjusted it down to . 62v, the voltage designated on the tag on the TPS. I was able to adjust it with the star headed screw on the linkage rather than loosening and rotating the TPS. The cycling was cured again until yesterday. Checked the voltage and it was . 64v. Adjusted it back to . 62v, and it was fine until today. So, my grounds can't be an issue, which leads me to believe my TPS is shot and causing the cycling in and out and the temporary loss of pedal.



2001 4x4 QC Auto, FASS, Westach, BHAF, Bullydog TD
 
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I had the same issues as CAfricano had and agree with him that the permanent cure is replacing the APPS. The voltage reset is a temporary fix, along with the DTT Noise Filter, if it works at all. I think the filter would do more help to protect a new APPS than fix a damaged one ... just my opinion.



Shop Ebay; I did and found a new unit for a couple of hundred dollars ... beat the heck out of dealer prices!
 
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Since Joe Mc pmed me questioning what has happened, I'll respond. I haven't said yes or no to it yet. Right now I'm test driving an 02 Reg. cab. I have a guy finding more info on the 00, as there may be more than meets the eye. See my thread in general diesel for more on that. The dealer is asking around $9700 for it. I'm not sure if that's too much, with the VIN trouble and such. I really want a manual long bed, but that's like finding a needle in a haystack around here... .
 
trans driveline vibration w/ lock up??

with that noise would it cause the converter to lock up and unlock like a shuddering noise and vibration. my friends truck when you get on the freeway shudders like a mother f er when the converter locks up. he had the driveshaft done once and it didn't fix it and then went to a one piece and it vibrated worse and then he went to the dealership and the mechanic said that it was common and it was the converter lock up and you can test it by when it shudders keep your foot on the gas and touch the break pedal also. if the shudder stops it is the the converter lock up that means the converter is going out. sure enough that is exactly what works. but does that really mean the coverter is going out or could it be related to the interference????? the vibration is getting way worse.
 
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