Looking for a good write-up w/pics for rotors/pads

[LRutigliano]

I've been searching the TDR for a good write up with pics for replacing the rotors and pads.



My fronts are getting close and I am going to replace the rotors with drilled/slotted aftermarket ones. I want to do this myself.



The factory service manual leaves alot of questions for me.



The rears look ok, but I would like a write up with pics for those too.



Can you direct me in the right direction??



Thanks,

Louis

 

[Regcabguy]

The drilled/slotted version decrease your clamping surface 9%. I didn't have any luck with them on my '98. 5. Chucked them and went with NAPA premium stockers and Mopar pads. My buddy went with EBC stock type rotors and their Greenstuff pads on his '05 but couldn't feel an improvement over stock.

 

[ETavernier]

LRutigliano,

Changing your disc pads and rotors is pretty straight forward. The slots and drilling allow the escape of gases released from the heat of friction of the pads against the rotors. This allows more consistant braking forces during prolonged braking... ie less chance of fade. The loss of surface area is minimal and more than made up for by increased consistancy.

Look over the manuals, and using basic tools you should do fine. Once you remove the pads from the calipers you will need to compress the piston into the caliper body. There are special tools for this, but a big C clamp works just fine too. Indeed my oldest daughter... now 17... when she was 4 stood on the piston to compress it for me!

You cannot be too clean. While you are in the hub you may want to check your bearings and ball joints too. Afterwards make sure there is no grease on the rotors or pads.

The rear emergency brakes are essentially a cable operated drum brake inside the rear rotor. If you have driven any distance with the emergency brake on accidentally you might have a situation where the inside drum section of the rear rotor has developed a lip. You can back off the drum pads through a slot in the backing plate; odds are it will NOT be a problem.

Good luck!

Eddie

 

[LRutigliano]

LRutigliano,

Changing your disc pads and rotors is pretty straight forward. The slots and drilling allow the escape of gases released from the heat of friction of the pads against the rotors. This allows more consistant braking forces during prolonged braking... ie less chance of fade. The loss of surface area is minimal and more than made up for by increased consistancy.

Look over the manuals, and using basic tools you should do fine. Once you remove the pads from the calipers you will need to compress the piston into the caliper body. There are special tools for this, but a big C clamp works just fine too. Indeed my oldest daughter... now 17... when she was 4 stood on the piston to compress it for me!

You cannot be too clean. While you are in the hub you may want to check your bearings and ball joints too. Afterwards make sure there is no grease on the rotors or pads.

The rear emergency brakes are essentially a cable operated drum brake inside the rear rotor. If you have driven any distance with the emergency brake on accidentally you might have a situation where the inside drum section of the rear rotor has developed a lip. You can back off the drum pads through a slot in the backing plate; odds are it will NOT be a problem.

Good luck!

Eddie

Thank you. I was thinking I would have to remove the axles and caps to get the rotors off, but I think you are saying its just like every other vehicle where the rotor replacement is pretty easy.

 

[JMarketos]

It's pretty straightforward similar to other vehicles, nothing unusual. But one caution: Those rotors weigh substantially more than the ones on a, say, PT-cruiser. Keep that in mind (fingers, toes, ankles, knees... ) as you remove them...

 

[LRutigliano]

Bump - still looking for a good write up with pics.



Thanks,

Louis

 

[ABarry]

Did you ever find a good write up? I went to do mine today and could not get the caliper off. . ? It appears that there is a metal clip that holds it on once the bolts are out? Came right off on my 94 the 06 is different... How do you remove the caliper?

 

[LRutigliano]

Did you ever find a good write up? I went to do mine today and could not get the caliper off. . ? It appears that there is a metal clip that holds it on once the bolts are out? Came right off on my 94 the 06 is different... How do you remove the caliper?

Sorry, I didn't ever get a good write up on this...



Maybe you should Title the thread "RV tires" or "aftermarket air filters" or maybe even "Obama is the best" if you want to get replies...

 

[mwilson]

Louis,

I've got to do the front pads in the '06 this summer. Will replace with factory pads as these have gone 110,000 miles.



I will take pictures and post them so there will a reference for people.



Feel bad, took all of the brake parts off when I did the ball joint write up, didn't stop to think that some might want to see how the rest of it comes apart... ...



Mike.

 

[LRutigliano]

Louis,

I've got to do the front pads in the '06 this summer. Will replace with factory pads as these have gone 110,000 miles.



I will take pictures and post them so there will a reference for people.



Feel bad, took all of the brake parts off when I did the ball joint write up, didn't stop to think that some might want to see how the rest of it comes apart... ...



Mike.

Hi Mike, as always... Thanks for your help! Looking forward to the pics.

 

[AHofner]

I just had to replace my left rear caliper the other day due to it hanging up.

A few tips:

1. do not let the caliper hang by the brake line hose

2. the bracket for the caliper has to come off in order to remove the rotor

3. a short pry bar will remove the caliper from the bracket. don't worry about bending the clips, new ones come with the new pads.

4. in order to compress the caliper, use the old brake pad on the piston with a C clamp and MAKE SURE YOU UNSCREW THE BLEEDER SCREW. This will keep from messing up the ABS sensor. I don't know how this can occur, but I got yelled at on a forum one time for just opening up the brake fluid reservoir and compressing the piston.

5. If you snap off the bleeder screw or your slide pins do not move freely, replace the caliper. It is way better to just do it while you have everything apart than to replace pads and rotors and then come back in 6 months to replace the caliper because it is not releasing the rotor (guess how I know this)

6. Bleeding your brakes is a good thing. You can either get a helper or I use 3/8" clear plastic hose on the bleeder screw and run the other end into a small brake fluid bottle half filled with brake fluid to keep air from getting into the lines. Purchase plenty of brake fluid, those lines are long.

7. use 6 pt wrenches and sockets to reduce the chance of rounding off bolt heads. If you live in the salt belt, this is very important. Also, Anti-Seize is your friend. Remember, you will probably have to do this again if you keep the truck for any amount of time.

8. Overall, pay attention to how things come apart and put them back the same way and you should be fine.



Good luck

 

[ABarry]

3. a short pry bar will remove the caliper from the bracket. don't worry about bending the clips, new ones come with the new pads.
I just got the new Hawk pads fro Geno's... . No clips?

 

[GOlsen]

I just got the new Hawk pads fro Geno's... . No clips?

You could prolly get them in a "disc brake hardware kit" from your local parts store. Should only be a couple bucks.

 

[ABarry]

ok. . well I just paid a few bucks for the new pads? I sent Geno's and email. . see what the deal is?

 

[BGlidewell]

I'm getting ready to attempt pad replacement/inspection. I noticed the fluid bottle was 2 inches below full which may mean the pads are getting thinner. Braking is requiring a bit more effort too. Only 60K mikes though. I will also be bleeding the entire system and replacing the old fluid with Motul 5. 1.

Since this will be my first attempt at a "brake job" I will probably get someone else to assist me who has done a few. May even post pics here for your entertainment.

 

[Bob4x4]

The OEM pads come with new clips. I have not seen that with aftermarket pads. Removing the caliper after the bolts are removed is very easy. Just pivot to come out from under the clips. Looking at the clips you will understand.

Abs sensors are not damaged by compressing the caliper pistons. You are just pushing a small amount of possibly rusty fluid back into the hose

 

[Deleted member 995608]

The OEM pads come with new clips. I have not seen that with aftermarket pads. Removing the caliper after the bolts are removed is very easy. Just pivot to come out from under the clips. Looking at the clips you will understand.

^^^THIS^^^

I tried the other pads once. This is a rare situation where OEM pads outlast and outbreak all others.

 

[BGlidewell]

help me here cause I'm kinda slow:
Are we saying OEM pads are the way to go?

(Rhymes completely free today only)