Looking for First Upgrades, New to Forum

[Clay]

Hi, I'm new to the forum and this is my first Diesel as well. I have a 2009 Dodge Ram Quad Cab Short Bed 4x4 6. 7L Cummins 6 spd manual and have put about 25k miles on it. I've had it for the last two and a half years, but so far all I've done is Line-X the bed, add a 7 pin trailer harness, install a trailer brake and put on some mud flaps. I'm hoping to gradually upgrade my truck to improve it's reliability, longevity, and MPGs wouldn't hurt either.

I already ordered a Carli Backcountry 2. 0 suspension with sway bar and full progressive leaf springs.

My next step is to buy some items to help out my engine. From all I've read I'm leaning towards getting a H&S Minimaxx, an S&B Cold Air Intake with dry filter, AirDog II and some new exhaust that delete my DPF.

I was hoping I could get some input into whether this seems to be a good starting point, what exhaust I should get, and what should my next steps me.

Thank you

 

[LNaugle]

exactly what i would recomend... . you will love it! unfortunetly if you want to turn it up past 1st setting you will need a new clutch. i recomend south bends dual disc...

 

[Clay]

Even with a manual do you recommend a new cluth? Also, what about the fuel filter, is AirDog the way to go or FASS or something diffferent? And if so, which flow rate do you think is most suitable? If I pick a higher one can I dial it down until I get my performance to the stage where I'll need it?

 

[MoparBob]

Welcome to the TDR!



Definitely budget for a clutch like stated. As far as the exhaust goes, what sound level are you looking for?

 

[Clay]

I'm certainly not looking too loud, but I appreciate a nice diesel exhaust as much as the next guy. I don't want to run into any issues with it being too loud for neighbors (not an issue now in Alaska, but maybe in the future) but I also want something that doesn't restrict performance. I've read some suggestions about using AFE or Flo-Pro until the filter and then MBRP after that, but I'm not very familiar with the tones and performance of the different brands.

How long do you think my stock clutch can hold out if I keep the tuner on the 1st setting 90% of the time?

 

[firemansdiesel]

If you want it stock like sound, then just do a DPF delete pipe (keep the stock downpipe/cat). If you want more sound then a turbo back exhaust. Save your money and keep your stock CAI. The stock CAI is a good design and filter.



Also if you tow a lot and/or go above stock setting on the H&S. You will eventually need a clutch. The 60hp will be the limit if you drive conservative and not tow heavy.



Start saving the penny's for that clutch! :-laf

 

[Surefire89]

How long do you think my stock clutch can hold out if I keep the tuner on the 1st setting 90% of the time?

I ran my clutch on mild mode for 20,000 miles and it held up okay. Didnt haul heavy on it though. It would slip if I turned the mini max up past mild mode and got on it hard.

Just replaced with a dual ceramic disc valair and not only was it a easy instal that I did in my garage with a floor jack but it was very strait forward and could be done by anyone.

You are looking at $1200 or so for a new clutch but you can save about $600 - $800 by installing it yourself.

 

[Clay]

I appreciate all the input so far guys. So far it seems like I definitely need to plan for a new clutch and should keep the stock air filter.
What about a FASS or AirDog type system? Is that worth it as an early modification or something I should hold off on until I have more done?

All for suspension, any input on which turbo back is easier to install by yourself? I've read a lot about Flo-Pro not having very good clamps. I'd much rather buy something better once than buy cheap twice.

 

[HBarlow]

Your first decision should be whether you are willing to sacrifice your engine five year 100k mile warranty. If you are not, I recommend you don't start changing parts in the intake tract or adding magic black boxes. Any alterations will leave a trail in the ECM and if you return to a dealer with a problem will result in a voided warranty.

 

[Clay]

Personally, what would you recommend, Harvey? The horror stories of filthy engines from all the exhaust components have me concerned plus the extra MPGs don't hurt. Like I stated first, my primary goals are reliability and longevity of my vehicle and its primary components. Do you think maintaining the factory powertrain warranty would better facilitate that than some of these other suggestions? I think a bypass oil filter would probably help out in this respect and I don't think it would void warranty.

 

[JDC]

I have an '08 truck similar to yours... I just installed the H&S Minimax and I can echo what others have said. On the mild setting my truck runs fine and seems to handle the extra 60 hp OK. If i turn it up to WILD or HOT i have to drive it real easy to keep my stock clutch from slipping. I will leave it in MILD and get some more miles out of this clutch and save my $$$$ for a dual disc Southbend clutch in the next year or so. These trucks sound good with boths CATs and the DPF removed, too... not too loud.

 

[HBarlow]

Personally, what would you recommend, Harvey? The horror stories of filthy engines from all the exhaust components have me concerned plus the extra MPGs don't hurt. Like I stated first, my primary goals are reliability and longevity of my vehicle and its primary components. Do you think maintaining the factory powertrain warranty would better facilitate that than some of these other suggestions? I think a bypass oil filter would probably help out in this respect and I don't think it would void warranty.

Clay,

I have thought about it a lot and exchanged private messages with several members who have deleted their trucks. I'm closely following fellow Texan wiredawg's reports.

My truck is long out of warranty so warranty is not an issue. I live in rural west Texas where emissions garbage is not checked but, although diesel fuel prices are too high right now to pull my fiver and I prefer the 40 mpg of my Goldwing, I do enjoy RV travel and could run afoul of emissions testing in other states. The penalties are extreme if someone is caught with a deleted truck and I think about that.

Right now I'm not driving the truck much. It mostly sits in my barn.

The 6. 7 in the cab and chassis is programmed differently and uses different smog crap so it doesn't soot internals like the pickups do so it is not a critical concern. I'm getting older than dirt so will probably keep this truck as long as I want or need a truck. I see myself not making a decision about smog equipment until the need to replace the DPF comes along. I think it usually fails at around 225 to 250k miles and costs something like $2500 plus labor last time I heard anyone report replacing one. If I keep riding my Goldwing I won't hit 200k miles for several more years.

In summary, I don't have a useful recommendation.

 

[Clay]

Well, I appreciate the honest feedback, Harvey. I feel like on too many forums everyone is a self-proclaimed subject-matter expect on everything, especially everything they don't have any experience with. It's nice to have some honest feedback even if it's not particularly helpful. It's certainly better than dishonest feedback that could potentially be particularly harmful.

 

[HBarlow]

Clay,

My answer last night was quick and from the hip. More thoughts on the subject:

Testing by professionals such as Joe Donnelly over the years has clearly proven that modifying the intake or exhaust on our Cummins engines will do absolutely nothing until a coordinated group of modifications increases power output over 450 hp. In plain language it is money wasted. With a catalytic converter and dpf even removing the muffler will do nothing. It won't change sound level, power output, or fuel mileage.

The OEM air filter flows more than sufficient clean air for full power levels and is the best air filter money can buy. Replacing air filters with aftermarket junk usually provides less filtration and no improvement.

Magic black boxes are sold by various vendors. I don't know much about what they actually modify but increasing pressure to the injectors is a bad idea. The injectors in our ISB6. 7 engines are fragile. They give good service for several hundred thousand miles with good clean fuel but will not tolerate increased rail pressures.

Chrysler and Dodge have gone through bad times for years now. Daimler purchased Chrysler pretending it would be a merger of equals then dominated Chrysler for several bad years. Daimler forced some German parts such as the mediocre G-56 transmission on Dodge and left the company with stale car models and financial ruin. Dodge is profitable again but not rolling in success. What this means to us consumers is they have tightened up management of the warranty process.

IMO modifying an expensive new Cummins powered Ram is simply foolish. The trucks run great as delivered and will run hundreds of thousands of miles with good maintenance. Modifying them will shorten, perhaps drastically shorten, their service life and void the owner's warranty.

The decision belongs to the owner. Each to his own.

Any modifications made to the ISB6. 7 will leave a trail in the ECM that a good dealer technician can detect. Modifications are also likely to cause failures if actually used. Simply installing a magic black box and leaving the power settings low will provide very little in improvement but will still leave a trail. If the owner of a very expensive new Dodge Ram installs aftermarket parts and even occasionally turns the power up he is very likely to cause a failure, perhaps a catastrophic and very expensive failure. When he has it towed to his dealership he will be sorely disappointed to learn his warranty is void and he will pay for the damage he caused.

Several years ago we had lots of members who did that and then came here harshly blaming Dodge and claiming they were going to sue demanding compensation. Those complaints mostly fell on deaf ears. It doesn't happen here anymore. I'm sure it happens on some of the other websites but those that think like that are either rare or silent here now.

 

[Brad7611]

Clay

I am also new here on the TDR but have already done most of the mods you have asked about. Understand you will become your own warranty station if you do mod. With that said I have the MiniMax, EGR/DPF delete. My deciding factor was pulling the airhorn and looking at just what was going into the engine. Take a look and decide for yourself. Concerning the exhaust I removed the Cat and DPF but kept the stock muffler, it is quiet in the cab with the windows up but I can roll them down and still get the grunt of the exhaust when I want to hear it. Unless you are deciding to do major engine modifications to up the HP I would not worry about the FASS or AirDog II setup until you either have a problem with lift pump pressure or begin swapping parts for big HP increases such as injectors, tuned CP3 etc. One note on the MiniMax I run on stock no power setting, I only have the tuner so I could remove the emissions. I find that the truck has more than enough get up and go whether running empty or pulling my trailers anywhere from 10k to 14k. I have an automatic so I cannot speak from personal experience about the clutch, however the general consensus is that once you deviate from a stock setup it will have to be upgraded eventually so start saving you money now. Popular brands are Southbend and Valair. I am not for or against anything you do to your truck because it is in fact your truck. Good luck and I hope you enjoy whatever you decide to do.



Brad

 

[LNaugle]

H&S tuners are not magic black boxes... .

 

[Clay]

LNaugle, please explain what you mean. Honestly, the main reason I'd get a tuner would be so I could avoid issues with deletes. I certainly don't plan on cranking it up regularly at all... . at least not until maybe I do a lot more work on my truck.