Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Looking for taller valve covers?

[12V Ford]

For those who may be looking for taller valve covers for those arp studs, I think I found a place. It is destroked.com. They do cummins conversions and they also do custom valve covers. They haven't told me a price yet, but they are supposed to let me know.



I know the taller covers would help me out a bunch. Maybe if there is enough interested people we could do a group buy or something and get a better price.

 

[WaynesWorld]

12v foed,



This is a great tip if we can get him to follow thru with a group buy. Oo.



I e-mailed bean today to see if we can light a fire under him to get er done.



Thanks,



WAYNES WORLD

 

[Bob4x4]

For those who may be looking for taller valve covers for those arp studs, I think I found a place. It is destroked.com. They do cummins conversions and they also do custom valve covers. They haven't told me a price yet, but they are supposed to let me know.



I know the taller covers would help me out a bunch. Maybe if there is enough interested people we could do a group buy or something and get a better price.

The new version ARP studs do not require any mods to the covers,just cut the rocker stands down about. 200 I beleive



Bob

 

[WaynesWorld]

Bob4X4,

Its great the new studs do not require a change :-{} But the old ones have the issue. This looks like a great cure ! Besides, if they are ENGRAVABLE , think of the possibilties. HMMMMMMOo.



WAYNES WORLD

 

[Bob4x4]

Bob4X4,

Its great the new studs do not require a change :-{} But the old ones have the issue. This looks like a great cure ! Besides, if they are ENGRAVABLE , think of the possibilties. HMMMMMMOo.



WAYNES WORLD

I know what you mean... ... ... I have the old style,not installed yet along with a euro style v/cover.



Bob

 

[WDixon27]

i did the usual grind out the webbing in the cover and when that wasn't enough, i took a die grinder and buzzed the tip off that stuck above the nut with a cutting wheel, i figured it's not doing anything above the nut and with the wheel i used i got though it fast so i didn't get it hot enough to screw with the temper

 

[WaynesWorld]

i did the usual grind out the webbing in the cover and when that wasn't enough, i took a die grinder and buzzed the tip off that stuck above the nut with a cutting wheel, i figured it's not doing anything above the nut and with the wheel i used i got though it fast so i didn't get it hot enough to screw with the temper

WDixon27,

It seems that we all have adapted the same way to make a good product work for our trucks. #@$%!



Hopefully this could be a need fulfilled !!!



WAYNES WORLD

 

[MRector]

I didnt realize that the ARP studs are too long for our valve covers, I just bought some off of user GMAC out of the classifieds. I guess I will machine mine before trying to install. How much needs to be taken off of them??



Mikey

 

[Forrest Nearing]

it doesn't really take much effort to grind the stockers... if you bottom tap the block the way you should, grinding the webbing out will be plenty of clearance.



FYI, the factory valve covers can be polished and engraved too I didn't see anything on their site about taller valve covers.

 

[WaynesWorld]

Forrest,

I looked as you did. I found a valve cover plate for a 24v. I asked them thru an e-mail about the availabilty of a 12v cover. I have not received a reply as of yet. When I do , I will post it for all to see.



WAYNES WORLD

 

[bgilbert]

Forrest is right. Most guys don't bottom tap the threads as far as they should. You can also remove more material from the valve cover other than just the webbing.

 

[WaynesWorld]

bgilbert,

Some of us are kind of missing the boat or in just to big a hurry when we do the install. :-{}



But, you have to admit a little more bling would be nice to go on top of our motors. :-laf

It could "cover up " something we don't want to be seen.



WAYNES WORLD

 

[Bob4x4]

I didnt realize that the ARP studs are too long for our valve covers, I just bought some off of user GMAC out of the classifieds. I guess I will machine mine before trying to install. How much needs to be taken off of them??



Mikey

If you have the current style the studs are not too long,you just need to machine the rocker stand down.



Bob

 

[Tom C]

I just installed a set of ARP's last month. There current design requires you to mill the rocker towers to make them work with no need to grind the valve covers. Basically you would have to mill off the tower the same thickness as there washer. I called ARP and asked if I could omit the washers on the tower studs to keep from milling them. There response was 'yes'. Although they could not tell me the new torque setting since eliminating the washer (bearing surface) would add or decrease to that value. I torque’d them to the same as the others. You might call ARP and see if they give you the same response. If I ever blow the head gasket I will have the towers milled then and use the washers.

 

[WaynesWorld]

Tom C,



That would be very wrong IMHO:-{}



Why don't they make them shorter to solve the issue from the start ?



Wouldn't you damage the towers from the process of tighten & loosen eventually?#@$%!



Just some idea exchanging-----



WAYNES WORLD

 

[Signal73]

This pic, the guy just raised a part of his valve cover:

 

[Tom C]

Wouldn't you damage the towers from the process of tighten & loosen eventually?

Wayne, if I were ever to have to remove the towers (for exhaust spings, head gasket, etc) I would mill them at that time which would smooth the surface if they did get mared. If I were someone who tears the engine down alot (racing) or had a fedish for tightening the head bolts then it could be an issue. I would not think it would be since the stock head bolts don't use washers. I did look at the surface of one of the towers when I retorqued the studs after 2 heat cycles and it had no marks.

edit: I did ask ARP if I could leave the towers alone and use the washer but the stub would not be clean through the nut (a few threads shy). They said "no, must have full stud through nut".

 

[Tom C]

I would not think it would since the stock head bolts don't use washers. Also

Signal73, Thats and idea. Seems like alot of work

For me if I had the older stud kit I think 12V FORD has a good idea. or you can grind the valve cover.

But with the newer stud kit it looks like milling the towers is the best way.

 

[WaynesWorld]

Wayne, if I were ever to have to remove the towers (for exhaust spings, head gasket, etc) I would mill them at that time which would smooth the surface if they did get mared. If I were someone who tears the engine down alot (racing) or had a fedish for tightening the head bolts then it could be an issue. I would not think it would be since the stock head bolts don't use washers. I did look at the surface of one of the towers when I retorqued the studs after 2 heat cycles and it had no marks.



edit: I did ask ARP if I could leave the towers alone and use the washer but the stub would not be clean through the nut (a few threads shy). They said "no, must have full stud through nut".

Tom,

It still would worry me about omiting the washer.



I did the grinding thing on mine & never looked back. :-{}



I still think they should have made them shorter which is what they seem to be doing. Oo.



WAYNES WORLD

 

[WDixon27]

i forgot there was a little non threaded tit on the bottom end of my studs that i cut off too so i could get them deeper into the block, i think it was around 1/4" long, so it took that, buzzing the top off the stud that stuck above the nut and clearing out the web in the valve cover but i was able to get the covers to almost sit flat without the gaskets