Here I am

Losing coolant across the country. Currently in Az and about I have to head back to AL. Need help…

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2017 Ram 3500 4x4 w 6.7 and Aisin. 107,000 miles. Apology in advance fir this super long post, but I want to give as many details/clues as possible. Here goes:
Bought the truck last summer to haul my truck camper. Had low coolant a few times. I took it to a shop before my current trip (from Alabama, to Colorado/utah/Arizona, and back over the course of a month). They said they repaired small coolant leak under radiator. Ok- sounds good- so I left out with a slide in truck camper (3500 lbs in the bed or so) and hauling a 12 ft trailer with a Can Am Maverick (approx 2500 lbs total).

Trip started out fine, but somewhere around Kansas I started to get a low coolant warning. Was the middle of the night, but made it to a Walmart for more. Temps were staying steady in the 204 range. Didn’t want to add the coolant with it hot bc I’m new to the diesel world, and was confused by the combined radiator/overflow add setup. So, we took off on the road, with an eye on temps. Things were fine for a while, then temps started to reach 230-235. Stopped for a while, let it cool, added coolant. Drove a while, then low coolant warning again. Now check engine light was added to the mix. We stopped at a gas station in Kansas and slept for the night.

Next morning, walked to the local oreillys for coolant. Got it added, brought truck back to then to read code. P049d- EGR exceeded learned limits. Reset it, restarted, came right back. Oreillys troubleshooting guide said clean EGR valve. They let me set up shop in their parking lot, so I took the valve off and cleaned it with purple power. Reinstalled it, added more coolant, took off down the road with no codes. Within 30 minutes, low coolant warning. By this time I had googled stuff and was starting to suspect my EGR cooler as the issue. We were about 100 miles from Wichita where there was a dealer with one in stock, so we made it there and camped in their lot til morning.

Next day, had them do diagnosis. After about 3 hours they call me, say they have pressure tested coolant system, no leaks. They said they eventually removed radiator, found debris, and suspected it was causing it to have limited air flow, which could cause an overheat and to have coolant loss. They charged me $320 for, I guess, removing some leaves, told me I should be good, and off we went. Albeit with a sore ass bc I felt like that was some BS they sold me. But we were hopeful. And got about 50 miles out of Wichita before getting low coolant warning again.

Somewhere in colorado, I was adding coolant and someone stopped to check on us. He was a diesel mechanic who also owned a Cummins truck. He told me the EGR cooler was a likely culprit, assured me that the temps I was getting (192-225 when towing) weren’t too crazy, and double checked my oil for milky ness. None there, which made him think my head gasket was ok, and he reassured me that adding coolant would probably get me home safe to decide whether to replace EGR cooler or do a delete. He also told me about this site being the best for help.

Fast forward a couple weeks and about 12 gallons of coolant later. I’m now in Arizona and it seems to be losing it faster now. Trying to figure out what to do before I take off again cross county, Monday, to get back to AL.

I could use any help or guidance you can give me. Today was the first day I got to a worrisome temp, it did briefly hit 240- 245, so I pulled over, vented, and added more coolant. Got me back to my campground to mix more coolant up. At this point I wonder if I’d be better just adding distilled water until this is sorted out.

The dealer in Wichita did not test the gases in the reservoir which is what a buddy back home recommended to see if it was my EGR cooler or head gasket.

It seems to be related to slowing down. I will add coolant, take off on the highway, be fine for long stretches, then get off on an exit, and as soon as we slow down, I get the low coolant warning. I will stop, slowly remove the cap, and often the coolant will then expand and be at the full line. Then, I start the truck back, the coolant level drops, and I add more to the line. Put the cap on, take off down the road, and let’s say I only drive 20 miles than exit again: boom. Low coolant light. If I could go 150 miles.

I also had hopes maybe the people who repaired my hose before the trip, and did a coolant flush, left air in the system. For that possibility, I’ve let the truck run through a few thermostat cycles and topped the fluid off. Thought I was good after that in colorado somewhere, and boom, slowed down at some point, and warning back on.

I’ve spent SOOO many hours on google and YouTube searching, so I’m finally here begging for some insight. I’m not super mechanically inclined, but with the internet I can get through most jobs. At this point I’ve thought water pump, radiator cap, EGR cooler, or possibly the blown head gasket.

Any of you experts out there find anything in that long ass post that gives you a clue to what my issue might be? Please feel free to ask me any questions about how it’s acting. Also noticed when I’ve got the low coolant light on, that it sounds like the turbo is louder and whining. But not every time it’s on. Then today, after replacing both batteries in an oreillys lot in AZ, I had a new issue (they have been also giving me issues, and I’ve used a NOCO genius about 20 times lately to jump it in the morning- finally had a place to get new ones). Now it seems I’m just having some stutter or slight power loss randomly. It’s fine, and then it’s just slightly jerky.

Oh- last relevant detail- at some point in the mountains, and after the cleaning of EGR valve, I got that code again, along with the NOX sensor codes (can’t remember numbers). Had them reset at Napa, and haven’t had a code since. I bought an odb scanner at harbor freight in case it happens again.
At this point, I just want to get it home. Or at least back to Wichita so they can maybe find the real issue and credit me $300.
The truck has a lifetime powertrain warranty on it that would cover a blown head gasket, but not an EGR cooler. Or do I delete. Again, any insight is helpful!
 
I would check your water pump weep hole for a leak. You need to put your eyeball on the hole, not just close, in order to be sure. You might not see actual liquid if it evaporated but maybe telltale signs of it. Use a flashlight.

Where in Arizona? There is a good diesel shop in Showlow.
 
@Dom , Not sure if you're having the same issue that I had or not. There is an O-ring fit joint on the EGR cooler the leaked on me and took me a few days to find! Also on my 2014, I had to loosen a banjo bolt to bleed air out of the system to get it full and low coolant sensor to reset. Not sure if this applies to your 2017 or not. Anyways I'm sure you'll get the assistance needed to keep you from tearing your hair out! Plenty of members have either been down that road or have seen the issue. Good luck and enjoy the weekend! Happy Birthday America!!!
 
Really sounds like something to do with the EGR Cooler, cracked or as Topzide said an o-ring. Deletes are getting harder to do. The people that did the delete tunes are getting out of the business due to large EPA fines so better to fix.

"192-225 when towing" is pretty normal. The cooling van doesn't fully come on until around 217 so not unusual to see get slowly moving between 205-220 when hot under load especially up hill grades.
 
Well, losing that much coolant that quickly, if you aren't seeing it leaking out on the ground from around the engine compartment somewhere, then it almost has to be blowing out of the exhaust. What does the tailpipe tip look like?
 
Well, losing that much coolant that quickly, if you aren't seeing it leaking out on the ground from around the engine compartment somewhere, then it almost has to be blowing out of the exhaust. What does the tailpipe tip look like?

My thoughts exactly. I'm guessing you've traveled around 2k miles give or take, at 12 gallons of coolant your losing a gallon roughly every 150-200 miles. You should see a leak at that rate...
 
OR, some steam out the tailpipe....

Surely, if that much is going through it internally there would be a code.
 
At this point I wonder if I’d be better just adding distilled water until this is sorted out.

You need to check the antifreeze concentration with how much you added. (It's not clear if you are adding 50/50 or straight antifreeze.) IMO I would not want to take it in for a lifetime warranty with near 100% antifreeze in the system as it doesn't cool as well as a proper mix...

I salute you for trying to get this fixed, but, it needs to be fixed before your return trip. That much coolant loss and now exhaust sensor errors make it clear it's going out the exhaust. I suggest the coolant is fouling the exhaust sensors. Regardless the truck is giving you a clear warning before it leaves you on the side of the road. It's nice when they give you a warning first.

I have had good luck at Airpark Dodge RAM in Scottsdale. The Service Manager used to be my service writer there.
Service 844-351-8509

https://www.airparkdodgechryslerjeep.com/service/index.htm
 
You need to check the antifreeze concentration with how much you added. (It's not clear if you are adding 50/50 or straight antifreeze.) IMO I would not want to take it in for a lifetime warranty with near 100% antifreeze in the system as it doesn't cool as well as a proper mix...

I salute you for trying to get this fixed, but, it needs to be fixed before your return trip. That much coolant loss and now exhaust sensor errors make it clear it's going out the exhaust. I suggest the coolant is fouling the exhaust sensors. Regardless the truck is giving you a clear warning before it leaves you on the side of the road. It's nice when they give you a warning first.

I have had good luck at Airpark Dodge RAM in Scottsdale. The Service Manager used to be my service writer there.
Service 844-351-8509

https://www.airparkdodgechryslerjeep.com/service/index.htm
As to the coolant, at one point he stated that he was mixing his own, so sounds like he has the proper concentration going in.
What I am wondering is what coolant he is getting at the auto parts stores, I haven't seen many places with mopar coolant on the shelf, short of the dealer.
 
Generally if the cooler is leaking you will see wet soot in the egr. Even if it is dry, the chances it is a head gasket are slim to none. Also, a 2017 should have the self bleeding coolant bottle, but it still takes one warm up, cool down cycle to make sure it is filled. If you don't get it fixed in Phoenix you might try leaving the coolant cap loose so it does not build pressure. With 50/50 coolant and no pressure it shouldn't boil until about 240.
It also sounds like the cooling fan may not be working correctly since it heats up when you slow down. The fact that they pressure checked it and found no leaks is a little confusing for it to loose that much coolant.
 
As to the coolant, at one point he stated that he was mixing his own, so sounds like he has the proper concentration going in.
What I am wondering is what coolant he is getting at the auto parts stores, I haven't seen many places with mopar coolant on the shelf, short of the dealer.
Type of coolant doesn't matter at this point. It has all been lost so as long as he continues to use the same type there should not be a problem with the brand.
 
I just bought coolant yesterday from NAPA. It took half an hour for the guy to figure out what he THOUGHT would work. And he seemed like an experienced guy. My quick internet search seemed to indicate any good brand of OAT would be OK, 4 different colors seem to be around. Sticker of overflow bottle says OAT COOLANT, MS-12106. It was stunning to me that he could find NO NUMBERS in his NAPA computer cross referencing that number. Ended up getting Prestone Command HD AF/Coolant. Pink in color which I think is what color is in the bottle from the RAM dealer, not that the color really means a darn thing. I was only about a pint low so the sensor is pretty sensitive. The counter guy was pretty embarassed about the whole thing. I expected NAPA to be better than a place like O-Reillys but maybe they are all the same now.
 
Personally I would not go back to the Kansas dealer.. they couldn’t find the trouble... u think they didn’t do a good job already....trying to get a credit on $360 isn’t worth it...
The goal is to get find and fix and get home... please keep us in the loop... good luck...
 
Most auto parts stores don't seem to be what we were used to back in the day! Now anyone can become a counter person with the computer doing the work. I cut my teeth on books and microfiche! Much different the today. Books took up tons of space and fiche could be a pain finding the right panel! JM2C.
 
Oh and don't even think about deleting, that is a can of worms on these new trucks. And also your resale value will plummet to the ground. Dealers refuse to work on it as soon as they see it... etc.
Just don't.
 
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