Losing fluid

[AMink]

My buddy noted some dripping from under the front of my truck yesterday and I put it off to condensation from the A/C. Unfortunately, that isn't the case. I have fluid that I think is coolant coming from the between the front of the oil pan and the bottom pulley. It has blown all over everything from the track bar back. While parking and running it is a steady drip that slows as it sits after the engine is turned off. Am I looking at a waterpump or waterpump seal?

 

[JNixon]

Weep hole on the water pump. Just replaced mine this weekend. Hardest thing is the belt pump only took about 10 minutes , belt about 45 minutes...

 

[mwilson]

My buddy noted some dripping from under the front of my truck yesterday and I put it off to condensation from the A/C. Unfortunately, that isn't the case. I have fluid that I think is coolant coming from the between the front of the oil pan and the bottom pulley. It has blown all over everything from the track bar back. While parking and running it is a steady drip that slows as it sits after the engine is turned off. Am I looking at a waterpump or waterpump seal?

That would be my first suspicion. The drip slows down after shut down because the cooling system pressure drops.





The weep hole may be this style so it runs right down the front of the block...

Those bad u-joints shook the water pump loose.



Mike.

 

[BGlidewell]

yep, water pump. Leak was in the same place on mine.

 

[HBarlow]

Water pump failures are common and the pump is inexpensive.

 

[AMink]

I'll be picking up the new water pump today. Of course I just had the coolant changed so now I have to do it again.

 

[seafish]

I'll be picking up the new water pump today. Of course I just had the coolant changed so now I have to do it again.

As long as you are careful and use a CLEAN bucket and lid to drain the system, there is no reason you can't reuse the coolant mix that you just put in.

Years ago at Home Depot I bought a large funnel with a fine mesh screen at the bottom which I use for a job like the one you are about to do.

I would drain the system into one bucket, then pour that through the filter funnel into another bucket before pouring it back in to the system one last time through the funnel filter inot the radiator.

When pouring the coolant from the first to the second bucket, I would be sure to use a second bucket with a lid on it and only a small opening in the lid to recieve the funnel and let a little air out so the pour would be fast and easy and clean. Of course, I would only take the trouble to do so if the coolant was relatively new.

 

[TCDiesel]

I'll be picking up the new water pump today. Of course I just had the coolant changed so now I have to do it again.

I hear Ya. . That's why I see Not problem with running coolant at-least 100k or 5-6 Years then change the pump at the same Time,it's save My rear many times when the owner returns and states We F up the pump and expects free labor for the R/R. Genuine Cummins @ $100. 00 just is NOT worth the hassle.

 

[BGlidewell]

I'll be picking up the new water pump today. Of course I just had the coolant changed so now I have to do it again.

just remove the belt and take the pump out. You'll lose about 2 gallons which is one gallon of antifreeze and one distilled water. Consider it an extra "flush" so you can feel better about it. To get it out I pulled the air box using only one bolt and slid mine out through that empty space. The link in my post above has all the belt schematic and other details in case you need them.

 

[BGlidewell]

Weep hole on the water pump. Just replaced mine this weekend. Hardest thing is the belt pump only took about 10 minutes , belt about 45 minutes...

my experience was EXACTLY opposite. For the belt I got under the truck with a long-handled 1/2 ratchet and release the tension on the belt tensioner, then slid the belt off the A/C compressor. Then I got up top and slid the belt off the WP. Probably less than 5 minutes. I did not remove the belt from the rest of the pulleys. No need to. Even if i did it would only be another minute or two.

Keeping that heavy WP up close enough for a thread to catch required three or more cuss words. What is your secret? (I also used a small amount of black silicone to hold the gasket on the WP as I slid it in. )

 

[Wayne M.]

my experience was EXACTLY opposite. For the belt I got under the truck with a long-handled 1/2 ratchet and release the tension on the belt tensioner, then slid the belt off the A/C compressor. Then I got up top and slid the belt off the WP. Probably less than 5 minutes. I did not remove the belt from the rest of the pulleys. No need to. Even if i did it would only be another minute or two.

Keeping that heavy WP up close enough for a thread to catch required three or more cuss words. What is your secret? (I also used a small amount of black silicone to hold the gasket on the WP as I slid it in. )

I use my 24" ratchet from the bottom, and with a curved jaw large vise grip, LIGHTLY clamp the swaybar to hold the ratchet handle thusly holding off the tensioner. You can then go about your business threading the belt. From up top/ below etc. I use that method to inspect the bearings on everything once a year. I got 3400 hours and alls original, except coolant.

 

[mwilson]

Give this a look, I bought one several years ago and just love the thing. Perfect for our CTD trucks. Price is right as well.



http://www.sears.com/craftsman-serpentine-belt-tool/p-00941831000P



Mike.

 

[BGlidewell]

Give this a look, I bought one several years ago and just love the thing. Perfect for our CTD trucks. Price is right as well.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-serpentine-belt-tool/p-00941831000P

Mike.

why do you need this?

What I use:
http://community.craftsman.com/Craf...-Release-Teardrop-Ratchet-reviews?tab=details
I welded the flex head because it flopping all over is absolutely annoying.

 

[mwilson]

why do you need this?



What I use:

http://community.craftsman.com/Craf...-Release-Teardrop-Ratchet-reviews?tab=details

I welded the flex head because it flopping all over is absolutely annoying.

It's like a Swiss Army Knife for belt tensioners. With the two bars latched together you can pull it with two fingers right to the tensioner stop.

Plus it works on my stupid mini-van belts where there is absolutely no room.



Mike.

 

[AMink]

Done! I used the "pull the pump and let it drain" method. Most of it went in the 5 gallon bucket. The rest hit the towel. What was left was hosed out of the garage. I filtered the bucket through a towel into another bucket and poured it back in. When it came out there were some chunks and a shimmer on the surface. I'm sure some of the guck was from running down the front of the engine. When it was done straining, no gunk and no shimmer. It looked way better. I'll add a little new to it tomorrow to top it off.

 

[NIsaacs]

On cross flow radiators, just siphon the fluid out into a bucket. No fuss no muss

Nick

 

[Bill Stockard]

On cross flow radiators, just siphon the fluid out into a bucket. No fuss no muss



Nick

Yep, I've used that method several times and a funnel to refill the radiator and didn't spill a drop... as you wrote, no mess.



Bill

 

[JJPage]

(I also used a small amount of black silicone to hold the gasket on the WP as I slid it in. )

The silicone shouldn't be necessary, I have lost count of how many of these I have replaced over the years, and have never had the o-ring dislodge itself during installation. Now, I just jinxed myself... :-laf